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Mounting Heat Exchanger

T

the_tassie_devil

Regular Contributor
"G'day all, and trust ever

"G'day all, and trust everyone had a Merry Christmas, and soon to have a happy New Year.

Now, as the heading says, I am about to mount a Heat Exchanger (Tube Type) in my Seasport 16 Gull Wing, and as this is a "New" installation, with no mounting instructions, or brackets, I am going to construct my own. It will be a Full Closed System as well.

Question is, what is the best place, and position to mount it?
(1) Horizontal?
(2) Vertical?
(3) On an angle?
(4) High?
(5) Intermediate?
(6) Low?
(7) And the reasons for the recommended position.

Thanks,

Bruce."
 
"Normally I would say horizont

"Normally I would say horizontally up high at the front of the engine just cause that's where I've seen them (V6/V8) but here is a (not very good) pic of one that's vertical on a 2.3 so I don't know if it really matters?

374502.jpg
"
 
"G'day Bob,

Thanks for

"G'day Bob,

Thanks for the picture.

My thoughts are from my background in the Automotive world, whereas the Radiator in a vehicle takes the heated water into the top of the Radiator, and the Cooled water out of the bottom, and this also means that the Water Pump is always primed.

My past dealings with Marine Cooling has been with the larger vessels where the cooling pipes are attached to the outside of the hull, where they are in contact with the sea water ALL the time.

The other consideration is if in the vertical position, should the Sea Water inlet enter from the bottom or the top? And should the outlet pipe from the Exchange to the Exhaust rear outlet be at the same height as the top outlet, to keep the H/E full at all times?

My H/E is 4" in Diameter, and 27" long.

Bruce.

PS. I am leaning towards the Vertical."
 
"Bruce, lots going on here!

"Bruce, lots going on here!
First, if I may...... the configuration of the H/E (heat exchanger) as well as the expansion tank orientation, inlet/outlets, etc. will determine the mounting! These all play a part in the design, or should I say the design has pre-determined this!
If the expansion chamber and pressure cap are configured for a horizontal installation, then that is what I'd do.
There is really no rule if the plumbing can be accommodated correctly!
(Some of these H/E's can actually be mounted off engine and then plumbed accordingly.)

You now must consider that only the engine Circulating Pump will be pushing this "coolant" through the system.
Do you feed the manifolds first?..... or do you feed them secondarily?
Also, to do a Full System, your H/E and T stat housing must be "twin" ported on the return side!

Secondly, is the sea water pump in the OMC drive:
Is this pump capable of a FULL System?
Is the H/E capable of a Full System?
If not, then you may want to do a Half System only!


Thirdly, is there a riser plate available to block off the mans, yet provide a port for sea water to the risers only?


Fourthly, and possibly most importantly, is the issue of "retro-fitting" a Closed Cooling system to a previously raw water cooled engine!
You may have issues with rust scale eventually contaminating the E/G (ethylene glycol) side of the tube bundle!
This will be the OUTSIDE of the tube bundle, of which is inaccessible by the average Joe!
(the sea water side of the tube bundle IS accessible for service..... but not the E/G side)

The risk is the rust scale debris eventually preventing a good exchange between the heat generated by the engine, and the sea water's ability to remove this heat through thermal conductivity!
It will work for a while but it may eventually cause over-heating issues if you do not find a method for capturing this debris in the coolant return path, or later and routinely eliminating this debris from the H/E!

You may also be able to remove the H/E and find a method for treating and cleaning this side of the tube bundle at a few intervals within let's say the first 50 hours of operation! (flushing/shaking/tipping upside down, etc.)

You may consider a good chemical flushing of the engine, followed by neutralizing, prior to this installation.
After 50+ hours of run time, things may become less of a risk. I don't know!

I'm just bringing this to your attention!
I am one very much in favor of "Closed Cooling" systems for our marine engines..... I do not own boats that are NOT!
I'd like to see all of these marine engines Closed System cooled!
There is much more to this than just freeze protection and ease of winterizing, IMO.
It's also better for our engines to run warmer temperatures and is more efficient for Water and Cabin Heaters, etc.

Bruce, can you post a few images of your Heat Exchanger for us?

Good luck wiht it!


."
 
"G'day Ricardo, and a Happ

"G'day Ricardo, and a Happy New Year to you and everyone else.

Thank you for your detained reply.

What I was planning on is using the original Chris Craft system which is a Thermocon Develvo and cooling the engine first, then the Manifolds in turn, then the water back to the engine.

Once the Thermostat opens up, the Fresh Water then flows back to the HE, to cool down, and the cycle continues.

The Salt Water travels to the HE, with a small amount exiting to the Manifold ends to start cooling the Exhaust Gases, and the rest continues to the HE, and out to the extra fittings that are with the initial fittings on the Manifolds.

I will be running a “Trap” in the Salt Water lines before the water gets to the initial take-off to the Manifolds, and the Fresh Water won’t require filtering as the internals of the Engine and Manifolds have been totally cleaned out. Plus, this was a Fresh Water unit before coming into my ownership.

I am confident that the Engine Water Pump will do its’ job, as will the Pump in the Leg for the Salt Water. Plus, I won’t be running the engine with the leg up, as I am aware of the damage that is caused to the Ball Gears by running with the Leg on Tilt. And, I am also aware of the problems with the intake of rubbish whilst cruising in shallow water. That is why one has paddles, and a Boat Hook.

Bruce.

PS. Will post pictures tomorrow."
 
"Bruce, I am curious! If plann

"Bruce, I am curious! If planning to use the original H/E, why the question on the orientation of the H/E? (vertical vs horizontal)

Not sure that I understand the comment about a "a small amount exiting to the Manifold ends to start cooling the Exhaust Gases....."
The sea water pump will deliver ALL cooling water as per engine RPM dictates....., and the volume will very proportionately and accordingly (minus any resistance in the system)!


And just one of my pet peeves; I prefer to see the term "Coolant" used in place of "water" or "fresh water".

Just to be clear..... being a fresh water boat does not necessarily mean that the engine cooling jackets will not have suffered rust scale build up. And that was the premise of my comment re; the risks of adding a closed cooling system to a previously raw water cooled engine!
Maybe this is a freshly over-hauled engine and I have misunderstood you!

Sounds as though you have the rest of this pretty much understood!

I do wish you good luck with it!

."
 
"G'day Ricardo,

Attache

"G'day Ricardo,

Attached is a picture of what I am talking about at the rear of the engine, and the HE which I have been advised is large enough for my requirements.

Firstly, the HE is one that I picked up locally, and has been cleaned out and reconditioned by my local Radiator place.
374634.jpg


Now, my reason for questioning as to which way to mount it is because I can mount it any way I desire, and also put it anywhere I want to, as it is a totally new installation, and I have to manufacture the necessary brackets to mount it, and I would prefer to mount it off the Engine Bed than the engine itself so that it cannot suffer from engine vibrations, seeing as the engine is rubber mounted.

The other picture is self explanatory and the "Valved" Salt Water assists in cooling the Exhaust Gases before the rest of the Salt Water from the HE has a chance to get there via the main flow.
374635.jpg



Plus, the engine has just been overhauled, and the rest of the cooling system has been checked out and the Leg Pump has a new Impeller.

The reason I was thinking on the lines of Vertically Mounting the HE is so that the Coolant Pump of the engine will be always primed, and pulling in the cooler fluid that is at the bottom of the HE. Hot stuff always rises to the top.

Bruce."
 
"Bruce, this H/E looks similar

"Bruce, this H/E looks similar to an older Mercruiser in-line engine H/E, of which had a "remote" expansion tank/chamber.
It also has a single sea water inlet/outlet!
It also has a single Coolant inlet/outlet!
I do not believe this is adaptable to your scenario as is!

Furthermore:
Where is your expansion tank with the fill cap/pressure cap?
This expansion tank location should be the high point!
The H/E doesn't care where it is mounted!

IOW's........ No matter where you locate/mount this H/E (even if it had the correct porting), the location of the expansion tank will dictate that your engine "Circulating" pump will NOT risk loosing this so called "prime" that you are concerned with.
The expansion tank needs to be the high point!
You will be fine once the system is purged of air.

."
 
"It may work for engine coolin

"It may work for engine cooling, but not if You include the manifolds. And as mentioned, you will need an expansion tank.
Expansion tank connected to thermostat housing.
That exchanger has to be mounted horizontal with pipes 'UP'(drain plugs down) to purge all air out."
 
"G'day Ricardo and Morten,

"G'day Ricardo and Morten,

Oops, sorry I forgot to make mention of the Expansion Tank, which will be a unit from a Morris 1100, which is of Brass Construction, and pressurised, and will be mounted high, and within easy reach when the Hatch is opened.

The Outlets from the HE aren't completely to my satisfaction as yet, and one will need turning slightly to fit where I am thinking of placing it.

As far as the Drain plugs go, they will be at the bottom if I mount it in the vertical position, as they are at one end of the unit.

The other thought was that if by including the Manifolds the engine coolant will get too hot, then I might just have to run the Salt Water through them as well, and use the HE just for the engine itself.

At least I have a Temperature Gauge in the Dash Board, and can keep an eye on the internal temps.

I am still going to retain the 130 F Thermostat as well.

Bruce."
 
"One of my main concerns is th

"One of my main concerns is that the capacity of the engine circulation pump is good enough to even handle the manifolds with an even cooling.
You loose quite some circulation capacity just by using a heat exchanger, then add to hoses etc.
I would have left them out and when due for change perhaps re-considered."
 
"So, how much pressure does th

"So, how much pressure does the Leg Water Pump give?

And, what sort of maintenance schedule should I set for cleaning out the Manifolds if I go the route of only using Fresh Water Coolant in the Engine/HE?

After each day's useage I intend to totally flush out the Salt Water with Fresh Water by using the water intake in the leg via a home-made Muff that completely covers the intake, and of course, with the Prop removed for safety.

Bruce."
 
"It is not the leg (raw wa

"It is not the leg (raw water) pump that might create the problem, but the (front) engine circulation pump. It is a simple metal-impeller centrifugal pump and will not take much of back-pressure. When that looses the feed pressure from the raw water pump capacity will severely drop.
On your engine it is not designed by itself to handle both engine circulation cooling and manifolds.
The newer raiser type manifolds have a simpler flow system with less resistance than your present set-up."
 
"I thought the flow from the s

"I thought the flow from the system I have now was pretty simple, with very little restriction.

Plus, the hoses are large enough to allow even the simplest of convection cooling, and with the HE in the vertical, the hot coolant should always rise to the top, and the cooler coolant at the bottom to be drawn into the engine by the engine pump.

Now, the next thing that I think I would like to know is what would the HE I have be designed for, engine size wise?

Seeing as mine is a 225 Cubic Inch V6, I thought the HE I have would handle cooling both it, and the Manifolds.

Nobody here, in my area, seems to know what is required. Everyone only looks at Parts Books, and need Specifications and engine numbers and the like, which I don't have.

Bruce."
 
"'and the cooler coolant a

"'and the cooler coolant at the bottom to be drawn into the engine by the engine pump.'

The circulation pump need a positive pressure to operate properly either by pressure from the raw water pump or pressure from an expansion tank. It will not 'draw' water.
Forget about vertical or horizontal, that has no impact on cooling ability, just for convenient attachment. Your HE looks to be designed for horizontal, by the way.
On this page:
http://www.all-about-houseboats.com/support-files/chris-craft-houseboat-manual.p df
Page 15 has a schematic of the V8 cooling which mainly should be the same as yours?
If so, it looks like water is going through 1/2 of manifold, through engine and the out with exhaust through the other 1/2 of manifold, or possibly from thermostat housing to raisers and out.
If the later that will be return of fresh water to exchanger.
I would need a front pic of your engine to get it correct."
 
"Bruce, I want to help you her

"Bruce, I want to help you here as much as the next guy...... but at the risk of sounding arrogant, I'm going to suggest that you may be over your head here with regard to this system! There are several things that I am sensing that you may not understand.
Rather than point fingers, I'd rather help you understand this.
Are we OK with this?

As a suggestion only...., you may simplify this by finding and using OEM parts. This is simply just too critical to design something without full knowledge of how the system must work...... especially with this exhaust system..... IMOO here!

Another point, is engine temperature for a closed cooling system. These may, and will work better at the higher operating temperatures with the Closed Cooling system!
We keep Salt Water engines at the lower temperatures to avoid salt crystallization at temps above 145*F.
Your NOW Close Cooling System engine will perform better if temps can be greater, yet within the safe operating range. (160 to 180 depending on the engine)

The OEM exhaust system design that you have is old technology. Far more complex than it needs to be. It cannot be easily changed on this engine unless center-rise style exhaust components are available. (this I do not know)

A few further points, if I may:

**The expansion tank does not necessarily need to be integral with the thermostat housing. However, and I think what Morten may be thinking...... is that the Mercruiser set-up did do this on several in-line engines.
It is not necessary when creating your own.
As long as the coolant "return" to the H/E is via the expansion tank first, all is well!
(just an FYI on that)

**I would agree with Morten that this H/E is to be mounted horizontally.

**To go Full System, the H/E Inlet/Outlet ports must now be dual! To be "Dual", they must be capable of equal/even coolant flow.... and equal "spent" sea water outlet flow! (this is critical on the sea water side for a separated exhaust system such as on the V engines!)

**Not sure what you mean by the expansion tank being "pressurized"! Normal "closed system" pressure will be in the 10-15 psi range I suppose!

** IMO, your concern for sea water pump "Pressure" should actually be sea water pump "volume"! Again, IMO here.

Quoting Morten: "It is not the leg (raw water) pump that might create the problem, but the (front) engine circulation pump. It is a simple metal-impeller centrifugal pump and will not take much of back-pressure.
(1) When that looses the feed pressure from <u>the raw water pump capacity</u> will severely drop.
(2) On your engine it is not designed by itself to handle both engine circulation cooling and manifolds.
(3) The newer raiser type manifolds have a simpler flow system with less resistance than your present set-up."

(1) He will be closed system cooled. The two pumps should have no bearing upon one another with regard to capacity drop!
(2)Morten/Bruce..... was this engine NOT available as a full closed cooling system at one time?
(3) Agreed. But are these available for this particular engine? (Bruce, is this the little pre-1986 Buick V-6?)


**Bruce, please forget gravity convection! The coolant will be flowing regardless of Up/Down...... vertical/horizontal mouting!
I don't believe that you have an issue with the H/E being vertical or horizontal...... although I'd not do vertical for other reasons! The coolant will be continuously moving.... and liquids are particularly efficient at heat transfer! (Again, IMOO!)

Quote: "Nobody here, in my area, seems to know what is required. Everyone only looks at Parts Books, and need Specifications and engine numbers and the like, which I don't have."
Well....... maybe they are experienced and know the perils of an incorrectly adapted system!


Morten, the only cooling schematic that I see is on page 13 and appears to be for an "open" system (raw water cooling). Unfortunately, that does not help Bruce much!

A final note...... the sea water for a closed system will be entering the H/E first (minus P/S coolers, etc)....... from that point, the "spent" sea water will be diverted equally and sent on to the exhaust risers (or in Bruce's case, rear-most Elbows if doing a Full System!)

Bruce, IMO, if you are going to do this, I'd recommend starting with a schematic!
Then post the schematic for us.
There are always a few different approaches to skinning the same cat!

."
 
"Ricardo.
'(1) He

"Ricardo.
'(1) He will be closed system cooled. The two pumps should have no bearing upon one another with regard to capacity drop! '
It will to a certain extend, but may be compensated by using a pressurized closed system. Partly why Mercruiser use the 'ball-valves' in the thermostat housing on the raiser outlets. Even why they have the pressure valve at the raiser cooling on Chris Craft.
(2)Morten/Bruce..... was this engine NOT available as a full closed cooling system at one time?
No, I do not think so. However it is an aftermarket exchanger available. This is not a 'pure' Chris Craft engine, but an OMC with a Chris Craft cooling system adapted. Quite rare on the market. Mainly Chris Craft had V-8 and in-line 4/6.
'Another point, is engine temperature for a closed cooling system. These may, and will work better at the higher operating temperatures with the Closed Cooling system! '
Combustion wise, yes, but another Chris Craft syndrome! As Chris Craft have the manifolds 'included' in the std cooling loop you may run into a capacity problem if rising the engine temp!"
 
"G'day Ricardo,

I reall

"G'day Ricardo,

I really appreciate the way you put things into perspective. As you put it, "I am in over my head", regarding the Cooling side of things, which is the reason I am here wanting to get it right the first time.

I am wanting to keep the Closed System operating as efficiently as possible, and therefore, will be going to a 180 F Thermostat for the engine itself, and a 15 PSI Pressure Cap to keep things under control.

One thing I didn't want to do was "Over-cook" the water keeping the Exhaust Manifolds cool which in turn would pre-heat the coolant in the HE before it went back into the engine via the Water Pump.

Yes, the engine I am using is a pre 1974 V6, and was last used by Buick in 1967, and OMC still used it for a few more years. There is nothing here for these engines, in either the Marine, or Auto versions, as they never were imported into Australia, and therefore, I am attempting to utilise what I have here to create a Closed System from a fully operational Open System.

I am a modifier of cars, and am aware of the requirements of correct cooling, but this little exercise is creating a few sleepless nights trying to figure it out. I am also a Shipwright by trade (Long ago) but only worked with outside-the-hull Heat Exchangers in smaller vessels, or Raw Water cooling in larger commercial vessels. But then it was working on the Hull Repairs and maintenance (99% of the time) and fitting engines to Specifications. Never had to worry about what happened after it left the Slipway, as the Owner had those worries.

The reason I wanted to keep Coolant in the Exhaust Manifolds as against Raw Water, is to stop the corrosion, and encrustation that hot Salt Water causes due to heat.

This vessel will never see Fresh Water again, as it will from now on be used totally in Salt Water. Lakes are for fishing in, and there is sufficient waterways around our little Island of Tasmania to keep me interested in until I kark it.

With regards to sending the spent Raw Water to each of the Manifolds, I was going to use "Y" pieces in the outlet hose from the HE, so that the actual lengths of the final hoses could be made the same, so that the water wouldn't favour one side against the other, and therefore promote even cooling effects.

Okay, now for the placement of the HE. I can run it any way, length-ways, cross-ways, or diagonal, so where would be the best place to sit it? Up high, mid, or low down? That is, in relation to the Manifold Outlets? Is it better to use the Raw Pump to push the water up to the rear of the Manifolds after it leaves the HE, or let it flow down to the Manifold?

Quote: "Nobody here, in my area, seems to know what is required. Everyone only looks at Parts Books, and need Specifications and engine numbers and the like, which I don't have."

By this I meant that all of the people here I have found only know about the stuff they sell, like Outboards, and the like, and none have "Experimented" with the out-of-the-ordinary, like I am trying to do. Racing guys used Raw Water cooling and rebuild everything after the day's racing. "Normal" boat owners just use what they have, and what comes from the factory.

If it isn't listed in the Parts Book it can't be used, etc. But, I have finally found a place where I can get things like Gaskets and the like for the Stern Drive, but NOTHING for the engine or manifolds. Everything has to come in from USA, and that means big freight costs, and time.

Morten,

Thanks for posting the site, and I have printed out the section which gives me other things I didn't have before. The full description of the operation of the Thermocon Develvo System has caused me to re-think the use of the Pressure Relief Valve, and whether I need to use it, or simply eliminate it, and run the Raw Water directly from the pump to the HE, then from the HE to the Risers. As it won't take long for the HE to fill up and outflow to the Risers.

Bruce.

PS. I have totally forgotten the thing about gravity convection. I know all about Gravity, as I usually experience it during things I do, and it always hurts when the fall stops being a fall."
 
"G'day Morten,

I agree

"G'day Morten,

I agree that the two pumps will have no bearing on each other as there will be two totally separate systems.

"Nice" to know that I have something "Different" and I like things being different, and rare. Especially here in Tasmania as this combination I have here is the only one here, and probably in Australia. Makes me feel even more "Special". Even the "Tee Nee" brand trailer would be the only one in Australia.

But, I have to keep my "Cool", both in the boat, and elsewhere.

When I found the boat languishing on its' trailer in Auburn NY, I said to myself, "Self, this is going to be the only Chris Craft that I will ever be able to afford" I love the Mahogany crafts of the '30's, but could never afford one of those Double Cockpit models with the "Barrel" sterns and "Flared" bows. And the Wife agreed with me for once, so it went into the container with all my other stuff (2 3/4 cars and tons of parts).

Bruce."
 
"'Thermocon Develvo System

"'Thermocon Develvo System has caused me to re-think the use of the Pressure Relief Valve, and whether I need to use it, or simply eliminate it, and run the Raw Water directly from the pump to the HE, then from the HE to the Risers. '

If installing the HE, the pressure valve has to go. It will not be enough pressure to open the valve anymore, as you have no valve/thermostat in the circuit building the pressure. (when thermostat is closed).
The return routing from HE will be 'Y' pipe to raisers alt. manifolds.
What might be tricky, might be to find the optimum size of nipples into raisers/manifold. You will need a constant slight overpressure to get an even cooling/water-disposal to both sides. If too big, water will flow to where less resistance and you may loose the cooling on one side. This particularly at idle/low rpm with low pressure from raw water pump."
 
"Thanks Morten,

I was alway

"Thanks Morten,

I was always thinking that it had to go, but, I think I might look into converting it into the HE to Riser supply.

This way, it will guarantee that both Risers will receive near enough to an equal flow of Raw Water, and installing a couple of aftermarket capillary Temperature Gauges in each of the exhaust hoses to monitor what is going on. Or, going out actually.

Bruce."
 
"'I was always thinking th

"'I was always thinking that it had to go, but, I think I might look into converting it into the HE to Riser supply.'
That may be done by using the old inlet of raw water as 'IN' from HE and block the old outlet to engine."
 
"Bruce, I still maintain that

"Bruce, I still maintain that you need to make an accurate "proposed" system schematic for yourself and post it here on the forum.
This will show the two completely sepearate sides of the system!
The E/G/h2o side including engine circ pump..... and the sea water side, including the semi-positive displacement pump!
It should also show the thermostat and housing porting.
We can help you better from that point on.

FYI, when done, this will not ressemble any "Open Raw Water" system or "Thermocon Develvo" system!

."
 
"Yes, I will do up a diagramat

"Yes, I will do up a diagramatic drawing of what I have, and that will have to wait till tonight, as I have some lawns to mow.

Bruce."
 
"Didn't mow the lawns as t

"Didn't mow the lawns as this is too important.

Here is what I have concocted via Paint.

374676.jpg


I have shown the Exhaust Manifolds being cooled by the Closed Cooling, but if the cooling is insufficient with regards to the important engine internal cooling, then I can simply convert the Exhaust Manifolds to Raw Water Cooling, via routing the Raw Water from the Valve to the Front of the Manifolds, then connect up both Manifold rears to the Riser.

Bruce."
 
"Bruce, I'd get the raw wa

"Bruce, I'd get the raw water system plumbing out of my mind for this. It may be confusing if you do not........ only some info will relate!

As mentioned, there are several ways (schematically) to retro-fit a Closed Cooling system......... and in a Full or Half system as well.
It is difficult for me to find a schematic of your engine w/ a Full Closed Cooling system.


Here is a very good example of a Mercruiser Full Closed System for a V-8 with Center-Rise exhaust manifolds;
Schematically, yours could be very similar....... and you may be able to use some of this information.
This is very likely the better of the schematics to be looking at (minus your overly-complex exhaust system.... of which can very likely be changed some).

Pay particular attention to the path of Ethylene Glycol coolant (not sea water) and it's relationship of the Engine Circulating pump.
**Note how the Circ Pump provides and forces "Coolant" into the Engine Block first!
**Note the return path of this coolant exiting via the Thermostat and Housing!
(this "coolant return" is allowed on an "As Needed" basis via the thermostat)
This is Totally Separate from the task of the "Sea Water Pump"! (not sure I followed Morten on that one!)
http://www.perfprotech.com/store/App_Themes/PPT/images/tech-specs/fwc-full-flow. jpg
(did you note the simplicity of the exhaust manifold plumbing?)


What is not shown above, is a small by-pass port within the thermostat housing to allow coolant to continue flowing through the exhaust (full system) while engine cooling demands may be lessor than exhaust demands. This is easy enough to work out!
<u>If Half System only, this is a Non-Issue!</u>



Here is an image of the same engine being Raw Water Cooled;
Note the path of cooling water and the relationship of the Engine Circulating pump.
**Note how the Circ Pump provides and forces "Coolant" to the engine block first just as it does in a Closed Cooling system as shown above!
**Note the return path of this coolant exiting via the Thermostat and Housing just as it does in a Closed Cooling system! (again, on an "As Needed" basis via the thermostat)
http://www.perfprotech.com/store/App_Themes/PPT/images/tech-specs/rwc-half-flow. jpg
(did you note the further simplicity of the exhaust manifold plumbing?)


Bruce, any schematic that you can make will best serve if it can somewhat ressembles these!

."
 
"G'day Ricardo,

What I

"G'day Ricardo,

What I was attempting to show with mt Schematics was exactly what is shown in the http://www.perfprotech.com/store/App_Themes/PPT/images/tech-specs/fwc-full-flow. jpg
you suggested, and there is a by-pass in the Thermostat Housing for the Manifold Cooling, but I had a bit of trouble trying to draw it up.

The reason I drew up two separate diagrams was to keep the Raw Water separate from the Cooling Fluid, or it would have been a total jumble of colours and "leaks" would have been hard to stop.

Bruce."
 
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