1988 16L V4 Thermostat Assembly

" I have all of the parts &#40

" I have all of the parts (purchased from an OMC dealer) to replace my thermostats. My question relates to the round cork gasket that fits into a groove in the plastic valve body. It sticks above the surface of the valve body by about 1/64" The thermostat sits on top of this gasket followed by a gasket that goes over the entire valve body. It would seem that this might prevent a good water tight seal unless this cork gasket compresses a good bit. I suspect that this is the way it was designed but it just dosen't look right.

Am I looking for a problem that isn't there?

Thanks,

Howard - Miami Fl "

"Howard..... That round gasket

"Howard..... That round gasket does not fit in the groove in the plastic valve body. Sit the metal housing on the bench with the cavity facing up, then one of the long gaskets, then the plastic body, then the thermostats with the heat sensitive portion being dropped in towards the metal housing, then the round cork gasket being set over the top ridge of the thermostat cap, then the final long gasket. Then of course the springs and bypass valves. (You had the cork gasket on the wrong side of the thermostat).

I know that sounds weird but that's where the round cork gasket goes.

Joe "

" Got it and thanks. It still

" Got it and thanks. It still looks sort of weird.

Two final questions - - First, any tips on how to hold to hold all this stuff together as I position it and try to bolt it down? I know I need to use sealer 1000. Second, it looked like when it was done the last time that a generous amount of sealer 1000 was used on the rubber hose nipples of the metal housing. Should I do likewise?

Don't know if it means anything but this is a SeaDrive and I was able to get the old assembly out without pulling the powerhead or the large pan at the base of the engine. "

"Howard.... Using Sealer 1000,

"Howard.... Using Sealer 1000, assemble the metal housing, long gasket, plastic housing, thermostats, cork gaskets, and the remaining last gasket. One exception to the Sealer 1000, DO NOT put any Sealer 1000 on the long gasket face that will contact the adapter plate (engine) surface.

Drop the three bolts into their respective holes to keep the assembly aligned, then hold that assembly together with a couple tie straps. Let it sit overnight or for a few hours to adhere properly.

When you get ready to assemble that unit to the engine, apply regular gasket sealer (the kind in a can that has a small brush attached to its screw on cap) to the remaining gasket surface and the adapter plate surface, then install it along with the two bypass valve assemblies.

Yes, use the Sealer 1000 on the flanges that the water hoses attach to.

Congradulations on doing the job without pulling the powerhead. I don't pull the powerhead either but it is quite a draw on patience.

Joe (30+ Years With OMC)"