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An old motor need your help to get back her LIFE

"Hello friends
I am trying to


"Hello friends
I am trying to solve a operating problem of a 10 hp QD22s 1961. At first I thought it was a simple fuel system issue and i cleaned the crab well and I am sure that Now all the fuel passages are fine, however the issue still exists and it is this.

> You can prime the crab with the choke OR some extra fuel blow in to the venture and it will start fine. But as soon as you try to accelerate it dies. If you pull out the choke it will continue to run but not well. I also noticed some
“chip…chip ………chip“ sounds which seems to me misfire !! I also checked the firing and its fire from almost 1” blue!! Now I am a bit confused and don’t want to go further with out some valued comments and ideas from you guys …..<

Note: yesterday I noticed some air bbl inside the hose to crabs and in the glass filter under the crabs : fuel pump checked and found ok.

Do you think that the ignition system is fooling me and diverting attention to crabs? ACTUALLY THIS MOTOR WAS STROED FOR LAST 30 YEARS WITH OUT USE!!! May be the coils became weak? Some times they are not working properly?

thanks for reading and any of your comments are welcome.

kazi"
 
"Sounds mostly like the carb i

"Sounds mostly like the carb is not adjusted properly. Reset the needle valves. The top one is the low speed valve and is set at 1 1/2 turns out from being lightly seated. The bottom is the high speed valve and is set at 3/4 turn out from lightly seated. Lightly seated means finger tight to the point where the valve justs contacts the seat. Adjust the low speed valve first as this can be done in a test tank (barrel) and in neutral , just be sure the water level is enough to submerge the water pump. Start the motor and turn the low speed valve in until the motor begins to sputter then turn it out until it begins to sputter. Best setting will be 1/2 way between the two points. The high speed valve needs to be set the same way but is done while you are running the motor on the boat in the lake. The glass bowl will not be full while the motor is running and bubbles are not an issue unless there is also a fuel leak somewhere in the line. The coils should be checked for cracking. There may be an oval shaped plate on top of the flywheel that can be removed to inspect the coils but if not pull the flywheel using a screw type puller. Do not use a puller that pulls on the outside edge of the flywheel. Spark is considered good on those old motors if it will jump across a 1/4" gap. Many of the people I know who work on the old stuff don't consider checking the spark by holding the plug to ground as a valid test. They prefer to use either a commercial tester (one end goes in the plug wire and the other to the plug) or build their own using a board and a few nails or screws. Did you have spark on both cylinders? How about cleaning and resetting the points or replacing them? The old QD motors will likely be around long after the newer motors have given up the ghost."
 
"curt ,thanks for replying me.

"curt ,thanks for replying me.
you mean the high spped valve should be adjusted in w.o.t ? while running in lake?

took out the plug leads and tested with ground from 1/2 " gap . dont have any type of tester can you please tell me more how to make tester by using nails ?

yes both the plus is sparking well.

i am a bit confused about the cb pionts gap .. i set it at .20" the points dont have any burn effects and they both are thik ! don't know about the condenser . and i didnt change any !

motor are still in test barel.

keep you inform
thnx"
 
"Yes, adjust the high speed at

"Yes, adjust the high speed at W.O.T on the lake. After you adjust the needles loosen the setscrew on the lever, slip the lever off the needle and replace it at the middle setting of the face plate (hoping the numbers are still visible). That allows you to fine tune for different weather conditions. For the tester you will need a piece of plywood large enough to keep the nails and wires from touching each other. Find nails that the heads fit snuggly into the spark plug wire end and long enough to pass all the way trough the board. One nail will be connected to the motor via a wire and clamp and one nail per cylinder. Drive the nails through the board leaving enough of the head exposed to fit the plug wire onto. If you have multi cylinder motors you can check all spark at same time by adding more nails. Arrange nails so that the ground nail is at the center. Bend the nails connected to the plug wire until the gap between the tip of the wire nail is 1/4" from the tip of the ground nail. Connect the plug wire and ground the center nail. You should get a bright blue spark jumping across the nail tips. Sound like you already took care of the points. If you have spark then the condensers are good."
 
"Spark Tester - Home Made)

"Spark Tester - Home Made)
(J. Reeves)

A spark tester can be made with a piece of 1x4 or 1x6, drive a few finishing nails through it, then bend the pointed ends at a right angle. You can then adjust the gap by simply twisting the nail(s). Solder a spark plug wire to one which you can connect to the spark plug boots, and a ground wire of some kind to the other to connect to the powerhead somewhere. Use small alligator clips on the other end of the wires to connect to ground and to the spark plug connector that exists inside of the rubber plug boot.

Using the above, one could easily build a spark tester whereas they could connect 2, 4, 6, or 8 cylinders all at one time. The ground nail being straight up, the others being bent, aimed at the ground nail. A typical 4 cylinder tester follows:


..........X1..........X2

.................X..(grd)

..........X3..........X4

1."
 
"Kazi, the "chip chip"

"Kazi, the "chip chip" sound could be spark jumping out of the wires into the stator plate. How do the plug wires look?"
 
Would anyone have any pictures

Would anyone have any pictures available of the "Home made Plug Tester" to see what it actually looks like (perhaps with a couple of close ups of the connections)I sort of start making mine but give up when it starts to look too crappy.
Thanks Dave
 
"yes David you are right if an

"yes David you are right if anyone have some pic will be fine.
thnx TIMOTHY for joining here . your idea is perfect . the leads are hard and looks worn , its breaking . but when i run the motor in a darker room i didnt see any spark leak yet . tonight i ill chk again.

EVERYBODY PLS KEEP WRITING.. SOON I LL BACK TO YOU WITH LATEST ..the QD22 is really giving me a hard time ..lol...one after another i am finding a new problem ....right now facing with gear too

thnx to all"
 
"A motor stored for that lengt

"A motor stored for that length of time needs to be gone threw completely, top to bottom, and thats just to see if it's worth fixing. Any seal, gasket, o-ring made of rubber is likely rotted and needs to be replaced just so the casing will hold vacuum. The ignition, more than likely, will have to be gutted and replaced. The coils simply disinagrate over time, not mention the use they had before it was put away. The points could be coroded so bad that they dont throw a spark in time with rest of the motor, if at all. Plug wires go bad relitively quickly, along with any other wires, get old and crack. My guess is that you're in for more than just a quick spray in the carb and some new plugs. Not an impossible job, buy a manual, go threw everything once and have a running motor on the other end..."
 
"Deal all ,
thanks all for yo


"Deal all ,
thanks all for your valued tips . the motor is now running well than before. cleaned and adjusted cb points . changed plug but the main problem was with the carb,flot lvl speccially the ndl adjustments.....NOTE : I USED A O RING INSTATE OF WASHER in to the low speed ndl which coz a big gap and the motor was suffering from extrim lean mixture..JUST REMOVED THAT RING !!BUT STILL THERE IS SOME CAUGHING AT LOW SPEED ..
MID Rpm IS SOUNDING OK !!

EVERYBODY PLEASE ADVICE ME ON THE NEW ISSUE:
---------------------------------------------
THAT IS I NOTICED WATER IN TO THE LOWER UNIT AND I KNOW ALL THE SEALS HAS TO BE CHANGED . I LOOK IN TO DIFFRENT WEB INCLUDING THIS SITE FOR THE SEALS AND FOUND A COMMON ONE WICH FITS MANY MODELS OF 10 HP FROM 1958 TO 1973 THE PART # IS 18-2682 (SIRRA)
NOW I AM A BIT CONFUED ABOUT THE FIT WITH MY MOTOR BECAUSE I CAN/T SEE THE MAIN PROP BUSH WICH I SAW IN MY MOTOR'S LOWER UNIT , I CAN SEE FEW MORE O RINGS WHICH MAY NOT BE BELONGS TO QD22S .
PLEASE HELP ME WITH THE RIGHT PARTS NUMBER FOR THE L /UNIT SEALS"
 
There are 5 seals to replace.

There are 5 seals to replace. The main prop seal is contained in brass cup and the entire cup is pried out of the housing as a unit for replacement. There is also a large O-ring on the outside of the carrier. One often overlooked seal is the shift rod seal. It is an O-ring that is replaced by driving its bushing/carrier out of the housing then inserting the new ring and tapping the bushing back into the housing. The drive shaft seal is pried out and replaced like the prop shaft seal. Last seal is the spaghetti cord that sits in the groove between the skeg and the leg. Also new washers on the drain and fill screws. All of those should be in the kit from Sierra.
 
"The cup is there (the 2 r

"The cup is there (the 2 rings on the left side) but I don't know or think that there should be 2 oil seals of the same size as one is for the prop shaft and the other for the drive shaft. I don't have access to a diagram but try this link http://www.aomci.org/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1261055825 Someone at the aomci site would likely know the part numbers for the two seals. You can also try http://www.ganotech.com/"
 
"curt, thnx for reply . i visi

"curt, thnx for reply . i visited those site you ref me.

in ur last reply u were telling about a oil seals on prop shaf ? but i didnt find any iol seal on prop shaft ! only the brass cup + a big o ring for the cup and i can see a rubber bush/thik o ring at the front (inside) the cup IS THAT THE OIL SEAL U MEAN ?

DIDNT FIND ANY OIL SEAL ON THE DRIVE SHAFT AT THE LOWER SIDE(AT THE LOWER UNIT SIDE)
BUT I FOUND A SMALL O RING AT THE TOP OF THE DRIVE SHAFT ( THE SIDE GOES TO MOTOR DRIVE GROOVE.) WHERE IS THE LOCATION OF THA "DRIVE SHAFT OIL SEALS" U ARE TELLING ME ?
I CAN ONLY SEE THE DRIVE SHAFT PASSING THROUGH A BIG BRASS BUSHING INSIDE THE GEARBOX !!

TOMORROW I ILL OPEN THE BUSHING OF THE PUSH ROD TO FIND OUT THE O RING U TOLD ME . THNX
happy.gif


MANY THNX"
 
If you follow the link to the

If you follow the link to the aomci site above and scroll down to the last post you will see an exploded view. The drive shaft seal is #52 located below the water pump impeller and plate. It is removed from the impeller side of the housing. The prop shaft seal is number 28. Both seals look alike and the seal is a one piece unit bonded to that brass cup. Newer seals maybe aluminum or some other metal. Pry the old cup seal out and don't worry about damaging it as it will be replaced by the new seal.
 
curt ..thnx a lot ...it ill be

curt ..thnx a lot ...it ill be really very very helpfulll for me to fix l/u . now i am clear that many few seals was missing. i think the priveous owner opend and keep it like this with out refix all these seals .

humm seal 28 is inside the cup ! thats what i asked u. CAN U PLS LET ME KNOW WHAT IS NUMBER 48 ? SEAL ? THIS PARTS IS ALSO MISSING IN L/U !!

IS THIS A RUBBER GASKET ?

THIS EVENING WHEN I WAS AJUSTING THE HIGH SPEED I NOTICED A GEAR SLP . RVS GEAR IS FINE BUT THE FORWARD IS NOT WORKING I MEAN ITS SLPS AND MAKE SOUND THAT GEAR PINION IS SLPING ...I CHK THE PINION AND FOUND OK...WHAT COULD BE SOME FURTHER COZ?

THANKS ONE AGAIN FOR ALL YOUR EFFORT
 
"hello .

how to remove the


"hello .

how to remove the shift rod bushing ? the drive shaft oil seal and the prop shaft oil seal ? is there any special tools or technique ?
i think if i use driver,hammar etc and force could easily damage the brass housing !!! ??

CURT > I TRIED to remove shift rob bushing by driving ...but there is no driving gutt or groove to hold any type of driver there ?

please reply to my post

thanks for your valued time and comments

kazi"
 
"First, I was wrong earlier wh

"First, I was wrong earlier when I didn't believe that the drive and prop shaft seals were the same. My technique for the removal of the drive shaft and prop shaft seals is to use a dental pick to puncture the rubber seal and pry out the small spring that holds it into the cup. After that I use a large screw driver to pry the cup out of the housing. Sometimes it helps to apply some heat to the cup to help loosen any sealant that should have been used. Another tool would be a bar that has a 45-90 degree angle and is long enough to reach the cup from the back side to drive the seal out. My tool for removing the shift shaft bushing is a piece of brass rod 5/16" diameter and about a foot long. From the prop side of the unit I position the rod in the shift rod housing through the O-ring and tap the bushing out with a hammer. What ever tool or item you use needs to be small enough in diameter to push past the O-ring seal but large enough to catch the lip of the bushing. Look for a rod that is a bit wider than the shift rod. Frank Robb over at the aomci site makes and sells some of the tools that help with the older motor repairs."
 
"Thanx Dear Curt ,
applied yo


"Thanx Dear Curt ,
applied your tips Successfully remove both the seal but with a minor crach in the shfit rod bushing. (used a rod with 45degree bend at head)
also used a heatgun to burn the sealant .

thanks once again for all your picture about damage parts of a gearbox . i did find the same damage in dog and forward gear pinion . i just changed them from my other l/u . i hope gear problem ill not remain !

what kinda sealant should i use for l/u fix ? i don't have other than silicon.

thanks/kazi"
 
"Don't use the silicon as

"Don't use the silicon as it will not stand up to the direct contact with gear oil. I use Permetex Aviation 3. Others are having good results with 3M #847 sealant or Permetex #2. Check your local auto parts store. I may use more than needed as when I remove a seal I coat the outside of the replacement (where there will be metal to metal contact) with the sealant. I coat the outside of the prop shaft seal, the drive shaft seal, shift rod bushing, the prop shaft carrier and the two halves of the unit (helps hold the spaghetti seal in place too). Also the threads on the screws."
 
"thnx curt . advice noted ,

"thnx curt . advice noted ,
STRANGE HOLE : i found a strange hole inside one of the lower unit of MY 2 QD22s ! there is a uniform hole/(seems oil passage) from drive shaft housing to shift rod housing just beside the water intake line (just below the oil seal)!! but the water intake line is ok and didn't find any leak TOWARDS SHIFT ROD HOUSING checking by air ,water, and light.
IN THE OTHER HAND : there is no similer hole in the other one BUT both are same make and model !!

NOTE : ITS SEEMS after seting the shift rod and driveshaft oil seal there is no chance to water get in through water intake line towards l/u !!

which one is correct ?

thnx /kazi"
 
Helo I am looking for a water

Helo I am looking for a water pump and a start gesr for a Tomos 18hp 1991 can any one help me

Angie
 
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