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Replacing my coil with internal resistor

"Yesterday, I could not get my

"Yesterday, I could not get my starboard 350 started unless I bridged the posts on my ballast resistor. Once it started I removed the temporary bridge and it kept running. I did this 3 times and it would only start with the "bridge". What confused me was that I thought the resistor would either "break" or "work". At the end of the days boating it would start without the "bridge". My conclusion is that the ballast resistor is going bad somehow. I've read that I can skip the ballast and get the coil with an internal resistor, but I don't know which one to get. Can someone point me in the right direction? It has a mallory unilite ignition. I saw a Sierra on West Marine, but I don't want to get the wrong one. If anyone thinks it is not the ballast resistor please explain. Thanks,
Steve"
 
"That was not where the proble

"That was not where the problem is, and replacing it with a 12 volt coil system will not sure the problem.

It's in the starter solenoid or circuit from it to the coil (or ECU). Note that the solenoid has an "S" terminal on it. When you hit the starter switch, the solenoid pulls in and closes that circuit (along with energizing the starter). Somehow that circuit is not working.

I suggest having someone hit the key while you test for 12 volts at the "S" terminal. If no go, then replace it. If you get 12 volts there, then follow the wire to where it's either broken or has a bad connection.

Jeff"
 
"Steve:

Jeff's got the


"Steve:

Jeff's got the right idea but the wrong terminal. The "R" terminal feeds the coil, bypassing the resistor, during cranking.

the "R" teminal only provides B+ during the starter's operation. If the test light stays off during cranking, when connected to the "R" term and ground, the fastest fix is to replace the starter solenoid.

BTW, the "S" terminal is fed by the key switch during cranking. Applying +12V DC to it engages the solenoid and then, hopefully, the starter."
 
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