Power trim vs power tilt

"i have an old chrysler 135hp

"i have an old chrysler 135hp and im looking into putting on a power trim and tilt, i have been looking around at the chrysler power units and the old ones have one vertical cylinder one vertical shock and then a small 90 degree cylinder . the other units i have been looking at is the force one vertical black cylinder.
so i guess the real question is

is there such thing as just power trim and just power tilt? and how can i tell the difference if the unit has both ????


both are on ebay if a picture is needed"

"<[img]"http://www.marineengin

"

Rear view, inside the brackets, left to right,
Shock absorber, Trim cyl.(note the 5 points), Tilt cyl. (covered by relays),
Outside bracket right side, Motor/Pump Assy.
This was from an '89 Force 85Hp, bolted right up to my '84 Chrysler 90Hp. I believe they fit 70Hp and up through until early '90s."

any idea where i can purchase the valve body that sits under the motor/pump?

Any 85-150HP trim system from 197x to 1994 will fit any 85-150HP engine. The only exception was a few (rare) mercury made 1993-1994 engines that mounted the pump below the waterline. Don't buy one of those.

The best system you can buy is from the USMarine, the second best Early Force, third Chrysler, and worst Mercury. Mercury cut too many corners and you can't depend on their stuff to work without major overhaul. If you are willing to risk a major overhaul then the best trim pump ever made for any mercury product is the 1992-1993 Eaton (tall, skinny thing with square base). But beware, Mercury factory used cheap ATF for trim fluid instead of hydraulic oil and any system from Mercury with red fluid is at risk of catastrophic failure at any time after 10 years.

Regarding valve bodies. I don't think you can buy just the valve body. The motor and valve body usually give out within a year or two of each other so it's almost always smarter to replace the whole pump. However, I do valve body rebuilds as a side thing on weekends if you want just the VB. Better early than late. Once the season starts I get really backed up.

Rritt,
What do you get for a rebuilt valve body? I was able to rebuild my motor / reservoir assy and get it doing well. My valve body has 1 stripped and 1 almost stripped port on the return side at least though. It was left open and hand some water get in. The most stripped port also has the inverted flare nipple corroded. I was considering tapping with a NPT tap and installing a male inverted flare adapter to get back to the brake line type nut. Have you ever had to do this before? My valve body seems to be working after disassembling and cleaning the pump gears, balls, and springs. I have yet to remove the shuttle valve. The pressure has it loose so I might pop that apart too. Do you recommend I get a new valve / port assy?

Thanks

this is a terrific alternative. TILT TRIM

Very interesting product thanks for the tip. I will have to save my pennies. I was considering getting a snow plow / other generic electro hydraulic unit to use with the stock rams. Now if they had one with a swivel bracket as well I could solve two problems with one stone.

BaylinerBill said:

Rritt,
What do you get for a rebuilt valve body? I was able to rebuild my motor / reservoir assy and get it doing well. My valve body has 1 stripped and 1 almost stripped port on the return side at least though. It was left open and hand some water get in. The most stripped port also has the inverted flare nipple corroded. I was considering tapping with a NPT tap and installing a male inverted flare adapter to get back to the brake line type nut. Have you ever had to do this before? My valve body seems to be working after disassembling and cleaning the pump gears, balls, and springs. I have yet to remove the shuttle valve. The pressure has it loose so I might pop that apart too. Do you recommend I get a new valve / port assy?

Thanks

Click to expand...

I only offer advance swap out on whole pumps (motor + valve body). The valve body should be matched to the motors rpm and torque. There are four main variations and you can't really say which by looking at outside.

I rebuild valve bodies and mail them back. Takes about 10 days including USPS priority shipping in both directions. costs $90 to $100 depending upon which model/HP/year. Some tilt only, pre-1981, and aftermarket valve bodies are not rebuildable. Aftermarket valve bodies use a softer aluminum and may cost more to repair if the forward check valve has blown out.

Thread can be repaired by tapping bigger hole and installing a brass adapter. The cavity behind check valve will collect shavings and can not be flushed or blown clean without disassembly. Helicoils and compression fittings will not deliver durable seal.

I guess that's about it ....

Hi , I'm replacing tilt and trim unit on my 1986 force 125 hp,with a used unit. what type of oil should be used and whats the proper way to bleed these things.Any info greatly apreciated. gerard.

Oil the manual calls for is SAE 30....straight weight non detergent motor oil as used in ancient automobiles. The air bubbles work themselves out after working the trim unit up and down a few times, just recheck your level to the fill plug a few times.

IF, and only if, your replacement unit is also a 3w system with the smaller aluminum reservoir and original pump gearing ... then use hydraulic jack oil. It won't work in a 2w though. the engine will buck on lowering. Only the original 1987 and earlier pump can handle thinner fluids on a big engine without bucking.

IF, and only if, you have the original 197x-1987 style pump assembly then you can use hydraulic oil. IF, and only if, then your system will run more consistently in both hot and cold weather, last longer, store better, and have better internal moisture absorption.