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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    dhaka Bangladesh
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    30

    Default can anyone tell me the right r

    can anyone tell me the right ratio of 1961 seahorse 10 hp model QD22s ?

    somehow i came to know that the said model ia ndl bearing instate of bushbearing ?

    thnx

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    perth, wa, Australia
    Posts
    956

    Default Run it on 25:1

    Run it on 25:1

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Kent, the garden of England, UK
    Posts
    1,199

    Default "See [url=""]http://www.evinru


  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Duluth, MN, USA
    Posts
    338

    Default Should I say something?

    Should I say something?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Duluth, MN, USA
    Posts
    338

    Default "Check out "Misc and engin

    "Check out "Misc and engine related topics" and go to "Here we go oil ratio", I have lots of posts on this subject and yes.....needle bearings are fine @ 64:1 as long as you run non-oxy and Amsoil 2 cycle pre mix or "Scepter" oil. I draw the line at about 1960. Then on the bushed.....or no bearing at all......I run 3 oz per gallon or about 42:1."

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    perth, wa, Australia
    Posts
    956

    Default "This is a great site and ever

    "This is a great site and everyone is entitled to their opions, however mine would be to follow the manufactures recomendations. What would happen if Kazi,s motor blew up on a leaner oil mix than whats recomended sometimes these things happen?"

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    dhaka Bangladesh
    Posts
    30

    Default thnx to all ..but i am a bit c

    thnx to all ..but i am a bit confused because i dont have any manual. if QD22s 1961 is ndl bearing than 50:1 may be ok but if its not.....? acutally i wanna get your help to reconfirm the bearing type of the said engine ..

    thanks again

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Duluth, MN, USA
    Posts
    338

    Default To answer Jamie......yes it wo

    To answer Jamie......yes it would be unfortunate but it wouldn't likely be a result of my recommended mix but a result of a pre-existing condition and a 24:1 mix of another oil wouldn't have helped it.
    To answer Kazi......It shouldn't be needles until 1963 or 1964 however bushing materials were improved in the late 50's and I have had no failures at 64:1 starting in the 1960's. I am certain of one thing and that is I will never invite anyone to do what I haven't tested myself for years and years. My recommendations are with Amsoil only.....there are no alternatives.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Kent, the garden of England, UK
    Posts
    1,199

    Default Stick to what the manufacturer

    Stick to what the manufacturers recommend and be confident you are doing no harm.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Duluth, MN, USA
    Posts
    338

    Default "I am informed that all the QD

    "I am informed that all the QD's had needled rods.....That may explain why I have never had to rebuild one.
    In response to Vic, I recommend leaner mixtures using only the finest synthetic in an effort to protect not only the motor.......but more importantly the environment. Our remote Ontario Resorts are on pristine oligotropic lakes.......you drink the water directly from the lake. Not only does the leaner synthetic protect the motor as well as the water and air........it improves fuel ecomomy as well. You will notice......especially while trolling and at lower speeds, about a 10 percent boost in economy. I have this documented as I have kept a daily log since 1977. Our guests enjoy a cleaner operation and love the vintage motors and remote yet comfortable environment. The pre CDI outboards are predictable and when properly maintained, more reliable than the electronic outboards. The double line motors have no venting and consume the fuel fumes while using the closed fuel delivery system. My boats are designed so the fuel tank is shaded from the sun to minimize expansion. It is a great system and I feel right about the 2 strokes. The 4 strokes are great, however they are heavy to portage and expensive to purchase. Our guests don't mind when the vintage motors are "dialed in" and burning clean. I use smaller diameter performance starter cords to ride closer to the center of the spool, giving the operator an easier pull. I have used this trick for years on the vintage stuff to help the old timers and ladies pullstart more effectively. Everyone gets a good lesson in operation from the start. I haven't burned up one motor since I began the Amsoil routine in 1976. I rebuilt lots of outboards from the 40's and 50's that ran their lives at 16 or 24:1. A richer mixture is no guarantee for longevity and certainly a larger environmental footprint. Thanks for reading me. Tim"

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    dhaka Bangladesh
    Posts
    30

    Default thanks timothy and thnx to vic

    thanks timothy and thnx to vics all others . why i dont go for 40:1 ? vics i dont have manual to see factory recommendation.

    visted many site including brp there i failed to find old models like 60s

    i also need some parts of the said motor pls advice some site.

    thnx again to all

  12. #12
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Kent, the garden of England, UK
    Posts
    1,199

    Default "[i] "i dont have manual t

    " "i dont have manual to see factory recommendation."

    Look at the link I posted earlier. That gives you the manufacturer's current recommendations !

    Here it is again http://www.evinrude.com/en-US/About.Us/FAQ/Oil.Fuel.htm

    See question 2 "What is the fuel/oil mix for my motor""

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    , ny, us
    Posts
    1,019

    Default "Interesting discussion! A few

    "Interesting discussion! A few questions: are the piston, bearing and ring clearances set by the factory dependent on the use of a specific oil/fuel mixture...is the "viscosity" of a 25 to 1 mixture equal to that of a 64 to 1 mixture and does it have a bearing on the amount of blow by and compression? I have heard that the older british seagull motors required a 10 to 1 mixture for both lubrication and compression purposes and would not have enough compression to run on leaner mixtures...I do not know if this is true but I do know that worn out two strokes(bad rings) that don't have enough compression to run on their original fuel/oil mixture can sometimes run if the mixture is doubled and a "hotter" spark plug is used. I also have some question about Amsoil...is it better than other synthetics and who is it made by? To be quite truthful, I am skeptical about the claims made by any manufacturer that their product is superior to other similar products. Today, even a one MPG increase in mileage and a reduction in pollution is a major achievement in terms of advertising and sales. If a car/boat manufacturer could achieve such a gain, why would Amsoil not be supplied with each new car/outboard and recommended as the oil of choice? I am also a fan of the older omc engines but I don't think they are environmentally friendly regardless of the oil/fuel ratio...They were designed 60 years ago and fuel efficiency and environmental concerns were not among their design parameters. Since that time, engineers have been able to greatly improve on the two stroke in terms of efficiency and clean burning. If an environmental footprint is a concern, these are not the motors I would select. It is true that the pressure tanks are not "vented" in the conventional sense, but when the cap is unscrewed for refueling, the amount of fuel vapor released would seem to exceed the vapor released through the traditionally vented fuel cap. As to the smaller starter rope, it sounds like an interesting approach...Some OMC motors were equipped with oblong recoil spools which were indexed to provide easier starting by using the larger part of the recoil during the compression stroke...I believe it was called "Easamatic" or something like that. I'm not trying to be negative here and as I said you have made some interesting points."

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Duluth, MN, USA
    Posts
    338

    Default "Thanks Bob......interesting p

    "Thanks Bob......interesting points. I'll post you back later. I have to go cut up some red oak for a firewood customer. Its a great sideline business here in northern MN. Running my vintage XL925 pro Homelite at 64:1.......wish it would burn up, then I could buy a newer lighter saw. This 90cc powerhouse has been running for me on Amsoil for 16 years.......including putting up ice at the resort. I run a full chisel .404 chain, however I have a separate chain with rakers removed for ice work."

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Duluth, MN, USA
    Posts
    338

    Default "Kazi, 40:1 is fine as long as

    "Kazi, 40:1 is fine as long as it is a high quality synthetic like Amsoil and providing your motor is basically sound. What parts you need you might try Sierra Marine......or go through your local Napa or O'Rielly parts store. Sierra is going to have gaskets, seals, impellers, coils, tune up kits and parts like that. Your local parts store can go through them or you can order yourself. If you need used parts like transmission etc. I would look further online or an outboard junkyard like Twin Cities Outboard in Minneapolis MN. Phone 952 496 1951. They are huge and most parts are corrosion free because we are so far from the oceans here. Your local OMC dealer for new parts, but resource other possible sources if the price scares you. My local OMC guy cuts me a little better price as I do a fair amount of repairs."

  16. #16
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Marine Engine
    Posts
    564

    Default well the good news is you can

    well the good news is you can get part right off this site we have one of the largest selections of vintage omc parts

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