Logo
FULL SITE MENU

Mercruiser ignition identification thunderbolt

"Chiefalen,
I dont know anyth

"Chiefalen,
I dont know anything about the rubber flappers in the exhaust. I have the one piece manifolds/risers. Where would I look to inspect them.
The boat lives at the camp on a brackish bay. When working, we fish offshore in salt water. Haven't been offshore in over 6 years now. I have the boat in town now and just running in the river for text drives.

I tried to put the boat in the river on Saturday but the ramp was closed due to the very high river stages from all the rain here lately. Gonna have to postpone the test drive for a few days.

I have a vacuum gauge and might run that test. Thanks for the links."
 
"RE: "The v6's in that

"RE: "The v6's in that boat really dont fit"

I owned a 1968 softtop.. When I walked aft with full tanks at rest, water would start to come back in the scuppers. A couple of Berts had sunk at dockside here in NJ and I never understood why until I owned one. Battery fails for the bilge pump and instead of the boat just getting lower in the water, water pours in the scupper and the boat sinks. I put removeable plugs in mine unless I was actually on the boat,and have a BIG deep cycle battery feeding the pump (and my electronics). I actually had two pumps, a second one wired to the start battery set to come on if the water level ever got to 1" above the turn on point for the normal pump.

At least the boat wasn't converted to O/Bs on a bracket!!!

RE: rubber flappers... usually at the point where the exhaust system changes from iron to hose."
 
"Will. I believe that I have t

"Will. I believe that I have the same engine as you, with the ignition module on the port side manifold. It is also a 1998. I do have a purple and white wire that has to be jumped to ground during timing to force the ignition module into the base timing mode. It is on the starboard side , just forward of the carburator. It's a round female barrel connector with a clear plastic plug in it (that's removed when you need to ground the system). My motor does not have a degree marker timing timing tab on it, just a single mark on the tab. Setting my timing light to -8 degrees. I twisted the distributor until the mark on the pully and the single mark on the tab lined up (this done with a warm motor at about 700 rpm). This is base timing and if everything else is working, should be all that you have to do.Tighten down the distributor (you should not be able to turn it when it's tightened, remove the jumper ground, replace the plastic plug, and that motor should be timed. If you do have a degree marker on your block, just set your timing off of that to 8 degrees.
Your boat hasn't by any chance gotten a whole lot heavier has it? Osmosis through the hull adding water weight? When you mention that the stern is now much lower, I wouldn't think that the 2 v6's would make that much weight difference over the 2 straight 6's. Something just doesn't seem to add up.
Bob."
 
"Bob,
Thanks for the reply.

"Bob,
Thanks for the reply. Yes, it sounds like you and I have the same motor. I have seen that purple/white wire with the plastic plug in it. I will try your recommendation in the near future. I timed my engine a few weeks ago but have not been able to test run the boat yet. I didn't ground out that purple/white wire and noticed the timing to jump around alot while at idle (about 600 rpm). It would be perfect around 8 degrees and then jump up to 16. Then it would jump back down to 8. I'm not sure what causes this. I know my engines do not have knock sensors so I'm not certain why it would have to be set in a base timing mode. I will definitely give it a try if my timing is still wrong.

I'm pretty sure I dont have any water weight in the boat. The boat has always been stored in slings in a covered boat house. To do the install, the motor box had to be widened and a big, massive center stringer was built. I'm pretty sure that most of the excessive weight came from these two things. Before the new engines, the waterline was just at the scuppers."
 
"Chiefalen,
No, not one piece

"Chiefalen,
No, not one piece mani's and risers. Didn't describe it quite rite. Just one big ass heavy exhaust manifold and elbow(one piece) connected by rubber boot to exhaust passage way going down into transom assembly."
 
Back
Top