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Canbt winterize my starboard engine wonbt start

bobct

Advanced Contributor
"As a few if you know, I'v

"As a few if you know, I've done about 5 years worth of maintenance in the past month on two 454's.

I got my port engine running and winterized today but can't get the starboard engine running at all.

This is the one I changed the intake manifold, coil, fuel pump, plugs, hoses etc (same as the other side with the exception of the intake manifold).

I'm so frustrated, it's probably the last warm day and getting a hose to the boat is an effort.

I have spark, I checked that by grounding the coil to the block. I think my issue might be fuel related so I swapped back in my OLD pump (which worked) and didn't get any change.

I'm not seeing any fuel at the carb after cranking dozens of times. I figured ok, I must have gotten a new/bad pump or I installed it wrong which is why I did the swap.

This is the same engine that I pulled the distributor out before marking the position of the rotor. I went through the procedure and seemed like I did it correctly.

Is there any potential connection between the distributor indexing which could create a no start and/or affect fuel delivery?

I tried cranking the engine over with the line disconnected at the carb and no fuel came out. I don't know if the anti-siphon would allow it to though.

I put my timing light on and adjusted it to 0 degrees while cranking. It wasn't off by much.

Right now, it cranks but isn't even close to starting. Also, I replaced both fuel lines going from the crossover valve to the fuel filter behind the pump. I posted last week the I.D. was slightly smaller than what came on the boat originally. The port engine is fine but the starboard engine (the problem) is a slightly longer run, maybe another 2'.

Any ideas appreciated!

Bob"
 
"Bob,

This is off the wall.


"Bob,

This is off the wall..but, When I replaced the starter because of the drive damper failure, I wound up putting the wrong starter direction LH rotation. NO WAY it was gonna start. When I finally smartened up, the RH starter did the job.

My 2 cents"
 
"Bob; It sounds like you check

"Bob; It sounds like you checked the basics, spark and fuel. As far as spark make sure the rotor is indeed turning that some fluke like the timing chain going out or pin on the bottom of the distributor didnt break, spark testers are cheap if you care to check at the plugs and also check to see if you have sufficent spark. I think if you havent allready tried I would pour a little gas in the carb or spray some carb cleaner in the bowl, I have put a little gas in one of those plastic ketchup bottles have someone at the key and if it starts with the prime keep it running a little sometime it just need the prime to get everything running. I know I dont have to tell you to be carefull and be well ventilated other then that no big deal. When you hear it run it also takes a little of the frustration away."
 
"Pretty clearly a fuel deliver

"Pretty clearly a fuel delivery issue. I think i'd try to pull fuel from a small, local coke bottle or something of the sort.
The distributor stuff is unrelated.
If you are in a super hurry and just need to get the thing going to winterize, get an outboard tank, squeeze bulb, and squeeze some gas thru the pump into the carb manually."
 
"ok, you guys have given me so

"ok, you guys have given me some things to think about. I tried a little starting fluid that I had on hand, that just gave me a backfire.

Sounds like I can rule out the distributor indexing for now which is good. I did verify that the rotor is turning. I will make sure I have spark at the plugs too.

I'm pretty sure it's fuel related as you guys are suggesting. I'm not smelling or seeing any gas up at the carb.

I think I'm going to re-install the new pump again and this time move the u-cooler hoses off to the side. They couldn't be in a worst position, they complelely block the view on this engine.

I am starting with new fuel lines (no fuel) and the carb is pretty much dry from being removed as well. Maybe a good prime will get it going.

Regarding the pump, I disconnected the line which goes up to the carb and left the feed connected. Then I cranked it over with my finger over the hole. Shouldn't I have felt some suction and/or gas when I did this?

I know someone is thinking, is there gas in the tank, yes there is at least 40 gallons


Will take another look tomorrow.

thanks"
 
Bob:
I dont know if its the r


Bob:
I dont know if its the right way to do it but the first thing I would do is remove the fuel line fron the fuel pump and try to siphon gas with a vac. pump from the tank. Might have a air leak or plug hose line. Also how about on-off valve on gas tank?

Henry G.
 
"I am going to do that. I migh

"I am going to do that. I might reinstall my old fuel line on this side just for kicks.

Is it possible to install the fuel pump incorrectly and still have the bolts draw in?

I did this the right way on the other engine, it runs fine. BUT, I can't keep thinking that maybe the pump is slipping past the actuating rod as I'm installing it.

As I thought through this, I didn't get the telltale "hoot" sound the second and third time. Could I possibly have installed two different pumps incorrectly three times?"
 
"Diver Daves suggestion to use

"Diver Daves suggestion to use an outboard fuel tank and primer bulb to pump fuel through the fuel pump and carburetor makes alot of sense. Even if you had to go out and buy a new outboard tank and hose($50.00 at Walmart), it eliminates alot of serious safety issues involved with priming the engine. It also makes the problem of diagnosis much simpler. Several years ago, I was in the emergency room of a local hospital when they brought in a man who was badly burned when his car ran out of gas and he decided to prime it with what was left of the gas he had poured from the gas can he had used to refill the tank. A carburetor backfire ignited the can he was using and he was engulfed in flames. I'm not sure if he died from inhaling the actual fire or from his burns but it sure gave me a new respect for the dangers of gasoline."
 
"You said all you got was a ba

"You said all you got was a backfire, Is there a chance you put the distributer back 180 out?"
 
"For right now, I'm on boa

"For right now, I'm on board with Paul.
Mine will <font color=""0000ff"">RUN</font> on ether, not just backfire.

Q: Do the squirters in the carb work when you pump the throttles?


...Yes: got fuel to the carb.

...No: Still MIGHT have fuel up to the carb.

Q: Are the (rear) spark plugs wet?

Fred 156-M"
 
"Fred,

No, I don't see


"Fred,

No, I don't see any fuel squirting when pumping the throttles, that's one of the 1st things I checked.

I haven't pulled any of the plugs but suspect that my answer above means likely no.

I'm going to try and get back over there today and will update everyone.

Paul White - I don't think so but I'm not going to rule it out. The fact that I have a bone dry carb seems to be my most likely issue. That narrows it down to new fuel line(s) and new fuel pump."
 
"Hey Bob,
Here's another


"Hey Bob,
Here's another one.
Its a little tough, but when the old 67 Charger runs out of fuel (non electric fuel pump) I use a 1/2 L. coke bottle (1/3 full for good pour control) of Gas to fill the fuel/float bowl thru the vent tube (located in the throat of the carb).

Only the primary side bowl (if you have the Holly or similar carb with 2 bowls) needs to be filled.

That enough to keep er running for a minute or 2.

Fred 156-M"
 
"Hey Fred...I have used a squi

"Hey Fred...I have used a squirt oiler filled with gas to do the same...If I get lazy. I simply use ether sprayed into the air cleaner element...Regardless of the method, I always replace the air cleaner(Flame arrestor) before cranking it over and when using ether, I keep the throttle mostly closed to prevent detonation. 67 Charger...Bo and Luke would be proud of you! Yee-Hah!"
 
"If you do try ether, make sur

"If you do try ether, make sure the engine is already cranking over before you start to spray.
I've seen diesels blow a head gasket because one cylinder got the entire shot. Also, don't use too much (same reason)."
 
"Bob:

the backfire could be


"Bob:

the backfire could be due to the timing not yet being set. You can get it closeby cranking the engine. Don't run the starter more than ~ 20 seconds at a time. Give it a minute or two to cool in between.

I'd fill the carb bowl and then see what happens. Either approach above will work, the direct pour is fastest. Also, as noted before, reinstall the flame arrestor before starting attempts.

Never just put your finger over the fuel line outlet at the carb - use a hose and direct the open end into a thick plastic or metal container. No suction there - should be plenty of liquid, under modest pressure."
 
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