Question on 280 reverse tilt inhibit mechanism

"Can anyone educate me on the

"Can anyone educate me on the function of the coupling rod and the reverse tilt inhibit mechanism ? On my 280 the coupling rod engages the lock brace pushing it down in reverse but nothing else in the mechanism seems to do anything. It's all lubed and free, maybe out of adjustment ? I can't seem to find any information in the SELOC manual on this mechanism. Thanks"

"If you go to my website
[url

"If you go to my website
http://home.comcast.net/~rfierro/site/

And click on "Photos". There is a scan of the Volvo factory manual page for reverse lok adjustment/operation. Look at ifyou roll you mouse over thepicture, the name pops up.the first one (checkadj, not checkadjsmall) .You may havet o zoom in to read it."

"Thanks Robert, Maybe this thi

"Thanks Robert, Maybe this thing is way out of adjustment. With it in neutral the drive cannot be raised by hand because the lock is engaged. Is this normal or should the reverse lock only be engaged when in reverse ?"

"Chris, use the Seloc manual i

"Chris, use the Seloc manual in the outhouse or for images only.... get yourself an OEM manual, or download the Volvo Penta .pdf version from online!

Chris, the coupling rod (the rod that pushes against the lock brace) can be eliminated, believe it or not! Often this will make REV engagment a little easier.

You are correct! With a drive fully DOWN, it will not raise by hand unless you reach under and manually release the mechanism from it's hold on the set pin!
If the lift-out unit is extended any, then lifting the drive by hand requires no manual releasing!


As for an adjustment..... well, there aren't too many to make here unless there has been some sort of wear or damage!
If the electric lift-out unit will not release the latch hooks......., then your lift unit "Pressure Plate" is not pushing the latch release rod down enough.
This is usually not an issue with the pressure plate, but rather an issue with the rod itself.............. OR the thrust sleeve at the top of the rod!!!!

The pressure plate must FIRST depress the sleeve/rod enough for the rod "travel" to release the "latch hooks" from the set pin.
If not, then raise the thrust sleeve up some and re-lock the jam nut.

Conversely, when a drive is to be locked down, the vice rod (and pressure plate) must be fully retracted (amber light at the helm goes out) giving reasonable space between Pressure Plate and the thrust sleeve.
The thrust sleeve and push rod must also return to allow for a "locked position".

Sort of a summary here:
**Latch hooks must have crisp sharp tips
**set pin in good condition
**transom shield set pin ears in tact
**the single return spring in tact
**push rod/thrust sleeve free to move up/down within the suspension fork arm (this is a common issue)
**no corrosion restricting any movement of mechanism (another common issue)
**Vice Rod fully operational (if bent, it will cause issues)

A good working lift-out unit will allow you (with a fair amount of force) to push a raised drive down by hand!
This indicates that the internal clutch is working!
If you cannot push it down, then the spring pressure is too great.
If it goes down too easily, then more spring pressure is required.
."

"You may manage to lift it eve

"You may manage to lift it even in neutral, but you have to overcome the spring load of the system.
When in reverse it should be totally locked.
But if on the trailer and you want to lift by hand, release it 'manually' as mentioned above."

"Morten, that is the common mi

"Morten, that is the common misnomer re; the lock brace and coupling rod.
I have posted on this many times on the BOC.
I have even provided a moc-up showing how unnecessary this is.
However, I must agree, it will offer a little bit more spring pressure in the UP direction.

Click here and look at the image..... then choose NEXT and you will see an image with the lock brace depressed. While depressed, the latch unit will still release from the set pin.
http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2243550690035924090xWMBIw] [/URL]

Morten, You worked for Volvo Penta, correct? I have an unrelated question for you regarding driven gear cups! I may shoot you an email if you do not mind."

Thanks Guys. Am I correct in a

Thanks Guys. Am I correct in assuming that this mechanism is supposed to provide some protection against damage to the drive if it strikes an immovable object while under way in that it would overcome the spring pressure and tilt up?

"Chris:
Yes!
If the drive lo

"Chris:
Yes!
If the drive lock was totally free in neutral, the drive would 'kick' up if abruptly reducing speed and the thrust on the propeller. The spring load is by design supposed to keep the drive down.
When shifted into reverse, the rod through the housing will push down the 'helmet' and lock the spring mechanism from releasing.

Ricardo:
Feel free to use my e-mail."

Thanks for that Morten. It sou

Thanks for that Morten. It sounds like if I can get this thing adjusted right it serves a useful purpose. I did download the OEM outdrive manual and it seems pretty straight forward. Happy Trails!

"Chris, just to reiterate and

"Chris, just to reiterate and add clarity..... there is only ONE adjustment, as in "I'll-take-a-wrench-and-adjust-this-so-that-it-will-work-better!".....
and that is the "thrust sleeve" at the tip of the "release push rod".
Any further so called "Adjustment" is going to be done by replacing and/or cleaning corroded parts so that they move freely........ Period!
There are no other wrench type adjustments to these!

Maybe re-read my two previous posts re; comments on adjustments.

Also, look at the photos where I show a 280 style latch unit.
I have clearly demonstrated that it makes no difference as to whether or not the "lock brace" is depressed via the "coupling rod" pertaining to reversing and kick up.

What Morten suggests is exactly what the intent should be, with the exception that it is necessary. It is not!
For years now I have been running twin 280-slash-290 Duo Prop drives w/ the coupling rods removed. Absolutely No Issues so long as the return spring is good!

Morten, thank you..... I will shoot you an email.
Chris, feel free to do the same. I can send you my phone number if an actual conversation would help you.

."

"We used to test this system o

"We used to test this system on waterlogged submerged logs in Penta.
Yes, even if 'locked' the drive may release and tilt, but a much higher force is needed. The result might often be severe damage to the lower unit and drive.
However hitting a log/rock in 30+ knots the prop thrust alone will give enough force to lock the drive down and knock off the lower unit.
It will only work if you manage to shift into neutral, eliminate prop thrust, before you hit."

"So it sounds like the only ot

"So it sounds like the only other reason this system was incorporated might be the prevention of the drive kicking back under heavy reverse loads. This does not sound like an issue if you have been operating successfully without the coupling rod. Oddly enough I removed it a while back to aid in reverve engagement! Thanks for your imput , the photos were very helpful !"

"Chris, you are welcome!

W

"Chris, you are welcome!

Well, it's more involved than that.... but yes..... you are basically correct!
Volvo could not use the patented trim/tilt cylinders that M/C had back then.
M/C could not use the much sought after "cone clutch" design, of which is necessary for a Duo Prop drive (of which came about in the 80's).

Vovlvo needed a method for allowing the drive to be raised, yet be held DOWN while reversing.
At the same time, offering a means of "Impact" protection...... Hence the latch hook "over-centering" springs.

Add to this, the push rod that releases the latch when rasising the drive UP with the lift-out unit.

Add to that the issues when reversing if the drive were to be tilted up any in low water conditions!
Foward at low RPM will work, but when reversing, it is not real good! The drive kicks up.

Some have said that the reverse latch system was a design "by Satin himself!"

The first gen 290 used the reverse latch as the fully hydraulic trim/tilt cylinders were attached via a swing bracket (anchorage).
Later models did away with the latch altogether.... no swing bracket."