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Replacing 454 fuel pump

fighterpilot

New member
"I have a 1985 model 454 Crusa

"I have a 1985 model 454 Crusader 350 engine and am trying to replace the fuel pump. The push rod is tight against the wall of the engine, hence i can't get the stem of the fuel pump in. I have "bumped" the engine numerous times and tried to move the push rod back to get enough clearance to insert the pump. I have tried to wedge a flat blade in between the end of the push rod and the engine case but can't move the rod. I admit this is new to me and I searched the forum for the answer to no avail. Help."
 
"As you remove the old pump, t

"As you remove the old pump, the push rod usually falls down and stops at the pipe plug. In this position the end of the rod is hitting the pipe plug. You can grease the rod and move it back "up" into the block, and the grease should hold it up as you install the new pump. Is this making sense?"
 
"Sometimes, you can have a slu

"Sometimes, you can have a sluge buildup on the rod. when the pump comes out, that stuff will wedge the rod tight. If necessary, you can remove that plug and gently tap the rod up. Use a thin grease like Dave suggested and it should keep the rod in the block. you mmay find it beneficial to rotate the engine, by hand, to get the rod on the low end of its eccentric. Don't forget to replace the plug if pulled."
 
"Yes, thank you- I went back u

"Yes, thank you- I went back up and with better light and some contortions of the body found the pipe plug. It is still a tough fit--if the cam is at its lowest point will I be able to esentially get the pump nearly flush to the engine wall with just a little pressure. Right now I am about 1/2 inch away with out pressure."
 
Tried rotating the engine usin

Tried rotating the engine using socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt. To turn the way the engine turns the bolt started to back out. Would it be alright to turn the engine backwards. i have the coil wire out.
 
"Is that a reverse rotating en

"Is that a reverse rotating engine? If not, you're turning it the wrong way.

Jeff"
 
"I'm turning it the way th

"I'm turning it the way the engine rotates when it is running. I probably didn't explain the direction very well. That directions loosens the bolt that holds the cranckshaft pulley on. It is the normal direction to loosen a bolt. I can bump it with a weak battery as needed, to see if the cam, at it lowest position, will give me good working room to get the fuel pump close to the engine wall to facilitate getting the bolts in."
 
"That is your Right Hand Rotat

"That is your Right Hand Rotating engine. In the marine realm, engine rotation is determined by looking at the flywheel - clockwise=right, counterclockwise=left (handed).

The newer setups almost always use LH engines and change rotations with gears rated full power in either direction."
 
hello, i am dealing same issue...
GREASE will hold push in place????
i thought there is a hole hole in front of block to hold fuel pump push rod??
i wish / the grease will hold.
otherwise i fear i will be removing sea pump and oil/trans cooler system
i have 1987 crusauder 454..
looking for any advice..
thanks
flash......out
 
Flash,
I'm going to state right up front that I have never changed a fuel pump; however, I've been researching it because I have one that's probably on its last legs (on a Crusader CH270). From what I've read, if your block does not have the bolt hole, you want to use a stiff grease to hold the push rod long enough to get the pump arm in place. Also, I read somewhere that, at least on a small block, the camshaft lobe that the push rod rides on is at its furthest point from the pump when #1 piston is at TDC. Hopefully, someone here can confirm this.
Dan
 
Flash,
I'm going to state right up front that I have never changed a fuel pump; however, I've been researching it because I have one that's probably on its last legs (on a Crusader CH270). From what I've read, if your block does not have the bolt hole, you want to use a stiff grease to hold the push rod long enough to get the pump arm in place. Also, I read somewhere that, at least on a small block, the camshaft lobe that the push rod rides on is at its furthest point from the pump when #1 piston is at TDC. Hopefully, someone here can confirm this.
Dan


hello dan,,,
well , i held the push rod up in place with a screw driver , placed thru the pipe plug hole,,then slipped the pump on. i was happy. then , when i went to put pipe plug back in the hole ....surprise, u cant get plug in hole because pump is blocking hole.!!!!!.
i am going to try the grease,,,,if that works,,that will save me from removing sea pump and oil cooler off front of block.
i thought all BBC had the threaded bolt hole in the front to hold the fuel rod in place.
again my motor is 87 454 350 hp crusauder.
 
All:

No bolt on the front of the big block. I did it last Spring. Actually put a glob of Vaseline on the end of the rod before inserting. It was sticky enough to hold it up until I could insert the fuel pump. Try a glob of bearing grease. That stuff should hold it for the few seconds you need to insert the lever and bolt in the pump. The lever is spring loaded, so a little pressure may be necessary.

Gene
 
All:

No bolt on the front of the big block. I did it last Spring. Actually put a glob of Vaseline on the end of the rod before inserting. It was sticky enough to hold it up until I could insert the fuel pump. Try a glob of bearing grease. That stuff should hold it for the few seconds you need to insert the lever and bolt in the pump. The lever is spring loaded, so a little pressure may be necessary.

Gene

hello,,,i will for sure try to grease,,,hopefully it will hold rod for ???..long enough to get plug in,,,and pump under rod.
but,,i thought BBC or at least the older BBC, had a bolt hole in front of block to hold the push rod???
wish me luck!!!!!!!!
thanks......
flash....out
 
Flash: I think the small blocks have a bolt that can be removed and a longer one insterted to hold the ron, but not on the Gen 4 big blocks. Put the rod in with grease on the tip. Replace the plug while holding up the rod. If you want. try using a hacksaw blade inserted under the rod to hold it up. Insert the lever, romove the blade and bolt in the pump.

Gene
 
Flash: I think the small blocks have a bolt that can be removed and a longer one insterted to hold the ron, but not on the Gen 4 big blocks. Put the rod in with grease on the tip. Replace the plug while holding up the rod. If you want. try using a hacksaw blade inserted under the rod to hold it up. Insert the lever, romove the blade and bolt in the pump.

Gene
gene,,,i was thinking of mark 4 bbc...oldies.....65-74.....maybe it was small blocks,,,i just remember yrs ago....guy i learned chevy's from showing or telling me that.
thanks..going to try this grease tomorrow..
flash....out
 
gene,,,i was thinking of mark 4 bbc...oldies.....65-74.....maybe it was small blocks,,,i just remember yrs ago....guy i learned chevy's from showing or telling me that.
thanks..going to try this grease tomorrow..
flash....out


hello..well the grease worked!!
i greased up area and fuel push rod , placed it back up hole/sleeve in block.. it stayed in place, also used a screw drived to push it all the up. replaced plug, then put fuel pump back on, connected fuel line, and fire up motor. ran fine, but need to do a dea test. motor idling is fine, but running at 3000 is little different. hopefully this resolves my issue with motor, after running 20 minutes, motor would act like running out of gas. motor would idle fine, but would not have power to get back on plane.
test it this weekend.
 
Glad it worked Flash. You might want to start with ignition (base timing and advanced - not sure what type of ignition you have).

If fuel - water? loose connection causing air leak? blocked pick-up tube or anti-siphon valve; filters, including carb; debris or water in carb. Remember, one fix at a time.

Good luck.

Gene
 
Glad it worked Flash. You might want to start with ignition (base timing and advanced - not sure what type of ignition you have).

If fuel - water? loose connection causing air leak? blocked pick-up tube or anti-siphon valve; filters, including carb; debris or water in carb. Remember, one fix at a time.

Good luck.


Gene
i have been chasing this problem since last yr..even would do it once in awhile 2 seasons ago. last season, i thought water in gas, added some good real water/fuel separtors...didnt solve issue. did a complete tune up,,,didnt help,,,rebuild carb , a quad dra juke,,haha..didnt work. so took boat to local marina, they fell it was the fuel line collaping, so i replaced fuel line. seemed to solve issue. boat ran fine last 4 - 5 weeks of season.
then this yr,,started out with same issue, boat niegbor told me replace pump.
so got pump..grease is the trick there, fuel rod plug was an allen. still need to water test.
as boat would run for about 20 min exactly, then started petering out,,like out of gas. but would idle for ever.

test it out this weekend.
thanks advice!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
flash ...out
 
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