1971 Evinrude ignition issues

"1971 Evinrude 60hp Model # 60

"1971 Evinrude 60hp Model # 60173 Serial # 08091
Has anyone converted the OEM CD ignition system to a points, condenser and coil system or another form of electronic ignition system? The amplifier has just failed for the third time in the past four years. From my understanding this ignition system on the 1971 engines has always had amplifier issues. But the engine still runs very strong when it is running correctly but the cost of the amplifier is high 200.00 plus.
Have cleaned and tighten all connections from the battery to the points including all ground connections.
The max charging voltage is 14.9 volts after engine has ran for several hours which is well below the max of 16.0 volts for this amplifier (CDI 113-7123).
Any thoughts or ideas on the cure or the cause for this issue ?"

"I don't know if anyone on

"I don't know if anyone on this site has the information to the ignition conversion process but I know for a fact that it has been done.

Now, your statement of "The amplifier has just failed for the third time in the past four years. From my understanding this ignition system on the 1971 engines has always had amplifier issues" is really not correct.

However, that type amplifier does have certain requirements, and if ignored, it will most certainly fail. The following may shed some light on this area.

(Voltage Drop To Battery Capacitance Discharge)
( Pulsepack When Electric Starter Is Engaged)
(J. Reeves)

On the older Battery Capacitance Discharge ignition systems (1968-1972), the electric starter reaches a point, even with a top notch battery, whereas the starter will draw excess voltage/current/whatever which results in a voltage drop to the pulsepack. The cure is to purchase a diode which is capable of handling 12 volts and installing it between the starter terminal of the starter solenoid (NOT the battery cable terminal) and the wiring terminal that supplies voltage to the pulsepack.

The diode must be installed so that the current flows from the starter terminal of the solenoid to the pulsepack... NOT vice versa. When that diode is installed in this manner, when the key is turned to the start position, the voltage that is applied to the starter is also applied directly to the pulsepack via the diode effectively eliminating the voltage drop and energerizing the pulsepack with the required voltage needed for its proper operation.
********************
(Battery Capacitance Dischage Powerpack Test)
Various OMC Engines - 1968 to 1972)
(J. Reeves)

Purchase a small 12v bulb at your local automotive parts store (the 12v bulb is to look like a flashlight bulb, not a headlight bulb). Solder two wires to that bulb, one to the side of the bulb (ground), and the other to the positive point. You might use a bulb of a somewhat lower voltage to obtain a brighter glow... just a suggestion.

Remove the spark plugs. With the key in the on position, make sure that you have 12v going to the pack at the terminal block (purple wire). Now, connect the ground wire from the bulb to any powerhead ground. Connect the wire from the positive point of that bulb to the powerpack wire that is connected to the coil wire on the terminal board (blue wire).

Crank the engine and observe that bulb closely (CLOSELY!). If that bulb glows even the slightest bit, the powerpack is okay. It may be a very dim glow... just so it glows! If it doesn't glow, the pack has failed.

Keep in mind, that type powerpack (Battery Capacitance Discharge) demands a top notch battery of at least 70 amp hours. Any less will, in time, cause powerpack failure."

"Joe, just to shed a bit more

"Joe, just to shed a bit more light on the failure issue; the engine will start and run at an idle however, as soon as the rpm's are increased above idle (1000/1200 rpm's),the engine starts to miss fire. This happens whether the engine is in gear or not. It is like the key is being turned on and off; although the powerpack never loses power, have checked that with a voltmeter.
Each time this "failure" has happened replacing the powerpack has cured the problem.
The battery is new this season and is a marine starting battery I think that is 125 amps. Also it is not maintenance free and it is trickle charged when not in use. Also is disconnected via a battery switch.
Had contacted Rapair/CDI the manufacturer of the last two powerpack’s after the last failure and completed their troubleshooting tips and followed their advice as to battery sizing, type and charging voltage.
Instead of a light bulb couldn’t a voltmeter be used to check for voltage between blue wire and ground?
Have you had any failures of the “powerpack” similar to this? Want to truly fix the problem.
I’m tempted to try and unseal the powerpack to see what has failed if that is indeed the problem.
The one-way diode is a great idea! Thanks, John"

"John, I emailed you some dire

"John, I emailed you some directions for converting to MSD ignition system. If you choose to go that route it works great. I did it to a 1970 V4 Johnson 85hp. Good luck"

"You state: "the engine wi

"You state: "the engine will start and run at an idle however, as soon as the rpm's are increased above idle (1000/1200 rpm's),the engine starts to miss fire."

Why replacing the pulsepack would cure that is a mystery to me. That sounds like intermitent continuity in the wiring leading to the timer base (only wire moving when throttle is applied) or the points are set incorrectly pertaining to the three (3) lobes of the crankshaft.

(Point Setting Of Battery Capacitance Discharge Ignition Models - 1968 thru 1972)
(Joe Reeves)

The points must be set to .010 but no wider than .010..... BUT in some instances due to a possible slight inaccurately machined crankshaft lobe or a slight offset of one set of points, a setting slightly less than .010 would be required as follows.

Whether the crankshaft has two or three lobes, when setting the points, check the setting of the points on each individual lobe by rotating the crankshaft by hand.

You may find that setting one set of points to .010 on one lobe, then turning the crankshaft to the next lobe, the gap measures .011 or .012 (too wide). This is where you would need to close that gap down to the required .010. A gap too wide can result in a ignition miss when throttle is applied.

Bottom line, pertaining to the point setting at the various lobe locations____ .010, .010, .009, is okay____ .010, .010, .011 is not!"

Doug thanks for the informatio

Doug thanks for the information. I had been looking for information on if MSD could converted to three cylinder use. Have used their boxes for other applications. John

"You're welcome John. If y

"You're welcome John. If you decide to go that route be sure to use two coils. If you don't, you will blow a hole in the distributor cap. Motor will run great for about 20 to 30 minutes before cap fails. "

"Joe spent some time today che

"Joe spent some time today checking out the ignition system. Cleaned and check both sets of points for the correct clearance on all three cam lobes they were .009-.010 -.010 / .010-.009-.010. Checked all the wiring in the distributor as well as the ground from the powerhead to the breaker plate and the wire from the powerpack to the reverse cut off contact. All were OK. Checked and cleaned the cap and rotor, no signs of carbon tracking or cracks, there is however a bit of electrical erosion on the posts. Tried to find a cap and rotor but no luck, any thoughts on where they could be purchased?

Going finish it up tomorrow and test it out. If the miss is still there then going to try removing the reverse spring and see what happens. There has to be a gremlin in there somewhere. John"

John I have a 3 cylinder cap t

John I have a 3 cylinder cap that is NOS. OMC# is 382479. I'm pretty sure this is the correct cap for your motor. Joe could probably confirm for us. Caps and rotors are no longer available. Seaway in Seattle has some of these items but they are very expensive. Email me if you are interested in cap. I could send photos if you wish.