"(Solenoid Problem)
A
"(Solenoid Problem)
Adjust the choke solenoid so that when the choke butterflies are closed, the area where the beginning of the wide portion of the plunger is just even with the edge of the solenoid. If adjusted otherwise, the plunger will (as you've found) fly out of the solenoid.
Make sure that all of the choke butterflies close properly at the same time.
(Starting Problem - Fuel/Ignition)
If when pumping the fuel primer bulb up hard, any fuel flows out of any carburetor, either the float level is improper or the float needle valve is faulty.
(Carburetor Float Setting)
(J. Reeves)
With the carburetor body held upside down, the float being viewed from the side, adjust the float so that the free end of the float (the end opposite the hinge pin) is ever so slightly higher (just ever so slightly off level) than the other end. And when viewed from the end, make sure it is not cocked.
A couple spark tests follows with a idea as how to rig a spark tester. If an engine (with the spark plugs removed) when cold has a good strong spark BUT has either weak or practially no spark after it's been run awhile, suspect the stator under the flywheel... if it's cracked and melting a sticky substance down on the timer base and powerhead area, replace it. However, don't overlook the ignition switch check mentioned below.
Spark Tester - Home Made
(J. Reeves)
A spark tester can be made with a piece of 1x4 or 1x6, drive a couple nails through it, then bend the pointed ends at a right angle. You can then adjust the gap by simply twisting the nail(s). Solder a spark plug wire to one which you can connect to the spark plug boots, and a ground wire of some kind to the other to connect to the powerhead somewhere.
Using the above, one could easily build a spark tester whereas they could connect 2, 4, 6, or 8 cylinders all at one time. The ground nail being straight up, the others being bent, aimed at the ground nail. A typical 4 cylinder tester follows:
..........X1..........X2
.................X..(grd)
..........X3..........X4
(Standard Spark Test)
(J.Reeves)
Remove the spark plugs so that the engine can turn over as fast as possible at cranking speed. The ignition is self contained (not dependent on battery voltage) and the engine must turn over at least 300 rpm in order for the stator under the flywheel to generate the needed 300v AC which must be delivered to the powerpack.
Rig up some kind of a spark tester whereas you can set a 7/16" gap for the spark to jump. You can design a multi spark tester of simply move the tester from one plug wire to the other.
Crank the engine and observe the spark. The spark should jump that 7/16" gap with a strong blue lightning like flame..... a real strong blue snap!
If you have spark and the engine won't run, I'd suspect that the carburetor's are fouled and will require removing, cleaning, and rebuilding.
If no spark, or if the spark is weak, disconnect the main RED electrical connector at the engine. Now using a small jumper from the battery terminal of the starter solenoid to the 3/8" nut terminal of the solenoid that engages the solenoid (not the 3/8" ground nut), crank the engine again and observe the spark.
If you now have spark, the usual problem is that a short exists in the ignition switch, in which case replace the switch. If still no spark, it's usually a case that either the engine is cranking too slow or the stator under the flywheel is faulty.
(Thorough Spark Test)
(J. Reeves)
This is assuming that there is absolutely no spark on any cylinder.
To test the ignition switch for shorts, remove all of the spark plugs, then disconnect the large RED electrical plug at the engine, then crank the engine, testing for spark by using a small jumper from the battery terminal of the starter solenoid to the small 3/8" nut connector on the solenoid which energizes it. If you now have spark, the problem is usually the ignition switch.
However, if you now have spark we want to make sure that the switch is indeed the problem and that there is no short in the instrument wiring harness between the engine's RED plug and the key switch. To test this, re-connect that large RED plug, then remove the Black/Yellow wire from the back of the switch and again test for spark. If you had spark on the previous test and now have no spark, a short exists in the wiring harness somewhere. BUT if you still have spark as per the previous test (disconnected RED plug), the ignition switch is indeed faulty.
If thru all of the above the spark does not exist at all, there is a possibility that a short exists in the engine's side of that RED plug. To test, re-connect everything that might still be disconnected during the above tests EXCEPT that RED plug, then remove the Black/Yellow wire from the powerpack connector. Now test for spark via the solenoid jump. If you had no spark before with the RED plug disconnected but do now simply by having that Black/Yellow wire disconnected from the powerpack, a short would exist in the engine's wiring harness. Should this type problem exist, cut the Black/Yellow wires before and after the RED plug connector, splice wires to make them longer, and bypass/jump over that RED plug.
If throughout all of the above you still have no spark, the usual problem is a powerpack failure.
The stator under the flywheel can be checked visually for a meltdown. Look closely at it. If there is any cracks combined with a sticky substance dripping down on the timer base and powerhead area, that would result in a AC voltage drop to the powerpack. Should this condition exist, replace the stator. Check the resistance of the stator with an ohm meter between the Brown wire and the Brown/Yellow wire. Check for whatever the proper readings should be in your service manual. If you have no manual, your local library may have one.
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