Fogging

"The back of my fogging oil ca

"The back of my fogging oil can (Penzoil Marine) says that after fogging through intake and shutting engine down that you should remove the spark plugs and spray for 10 sec. or so into each of the spark plug holes and with the plugs still out spin the engine over w/ the starter to spread the oil evenly. Should I do this? What about using regular engine oil for this or will it just burn and cake onto my piston heads? Also- what should I spray around my spark plug holes where it is starting to get some surface rust? (WD-40, Fogging oil, ect.....) Do you guys spray anything on the engine to keep it from rusting?"

"You want the cast iron surfac

"You want the cast iron surfaces coated but motor oil is too heavy for this. DO NOT USE WD-40! It has cutting oil in it. Anything you put on the heads near the plugs will burn off eventually, but Anti-seize works better than light oils.

There are corrosion inhibitors avaliable for spraying over the motor."

Forgot to ask- If I do remove

Forgot to ask- If I do remove the spark plugs and wheel the engine over a few times with the fogging oil I will loosen the belt for the engine mounted raw water pump so I dont expell any AF (The engine has already been filled with AF). My question is this- Will the engine circulating pump force the AF out anywhere when I spin the engine over? (exaust....)? Do I need to recheck the block and manifolds after I do this if I even do it? I have a 1994 5.8L.

"Usually, fogging is done whil

"Usually, fogging is done while the motor is running. The heat atomizes the oil and it coats everything better but it can be done cold. Loosen or remove the belt if you want. If the AF is expelled, about the only thing that would repalce it is air, which won't cause it to crack, will it?

I wouldn't put the motor up without fogging it. BTW- the reason it's called 'fogging' oil is because of the big plume that comes out of the exhaust while it's running."