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  1. #31
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    , Oregon, USA
    Posts
    31

    Default "Gene - I would recommend star

    "Gene - I would recommend starting a new thread for your question rather than add to a very old one to avoid confusion (hopefully). Having said that - Look for a number that starts with 217 (Sears model #), on a plate/tag somewhere. I would suggest looking on the top and sides of the transom clamp first, you might need to turn the head of the motor to one side or the other to see it. Often covered with crud. I have sometimes seen the number on the bottom of the power head pan. Air cooled, but there is a really skinny impeller that cools the exhaust and the bottom of the power head, I'm told. Don't know how critical it is. Check marineengine.com for parts first, but I suspect you will have more luck with one of these links:
    http://www.boatsportandtackle.com/se...ms/Ca tegories
    http://www.discount-marine-parts.com/index.html
    http://home.earthlink.net/~brixent/
    http://stores.ebay.com/sanfords-goodies

    P.S. - There were a few Eskas (makers of Ted Williams and others) that had full water cooling, but most are as stated."

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    , Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    230

    Default "Once you find the model numbe

    "Once you find the model number, enter it at http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part...t/index.action
    Sears still has some parts available for your motor.
    Tim had it right about the impeller, and yes, it is important to engine cooling. Even though the powerhead is air cooled, don't run it out of water or you'll kill the impeller. The motor will overheat without the impeller doing its job."

  3. #33

    Default I am starting to work on a Ted

    I am starting to work on a Ted Williams 5.5 hp outboard but it is missing the spark plug. Anybody know what plug will work in this engine? Thanks

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    , Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    230

    Default "You can find some info at [ur

    "You can find some info at http://home.earthlink.net/~brixent/M...8890-59900.htm

    The J13Y has since been replaced with RJ12YC.

    I hope this helps.

    Edit *** I just noticed you didn't specify the model or year of your motor. I was assuming it was a 1973 5.5. If it is something else, either look at the chart in the link I sent, or post your model number."

  5. #35

    Default Thanks for the response. I c

    Thanks for the response. I checked the model and it is 217-5998-0. I do not see this model on the link that was sent.

    Thanks again

  6. #36
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Inverary, Ontario, Canada - The Great White North Eh!
    Posts
    9,113

    Default "John, that's a 1974, Eska

    "John, that's a 1974, Eska built, single cylinder model.

    The powerhead itself is a Tecumseh model 643 motor which saw service on thousands of lawnmowers in the mid-70's.

    The RJ12YC will work fine, or you can stop in a small engine shop that deals with Tecumseh and they can give you other options..."
    Graham

    A "professional" is someone who gets paid for their work - it doesn't necessarily mean they are good at it :)

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    PALESTINE, TX, U.S.A.
    Posts
    28

    Default "James about not getting fuel

    "James about not getting fuel into the bowl, just behind the fuel inlet fitting where the gas line connects to the carb there is a check valve, if you used carb cleaner on it you probably damaged this little rubber valve and need to replace it, how do I know this?? I just did it to mine i have a 3.5 gamefisher and was cleaning the carb, It got gas fine until i used carb cleaner just once though the fuel line fitting then nothing, I'm waiting on my check valve to come in from sears now. this thing is pressed into the body so you have to remove it with a puller and have the new one pressed in no fun there, but necessary. Good luck."

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Parkside, Saskatchewan, Canada
    Posts
    4

    Default "Hey people I've tried the

    "Hey people I've tried the sears parts place and have come up with nothing.I was reading other peoples inquiries about Ted Williams outboards I have a 5.5 hp air-cooled with the overhead tank or the external tank but my numbers are not starting with 217,on my plate I have two sets of numbers I'm guessing model and serial,anyhow here they are 14024A and GA-035139 can anybody get any info cause I'm not having any luck Lil John Help please and thank-you."

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    , Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    230

    Default "Check [url=""]http://home.ear

    "Check http://home.earthlink.net/~brixent/Model1976-14061.htm
    It's a 1976 5.5. It's listed under Eska for Sears Canada. Does it say Sears Canada on it, or does it actually say Gamefisher? Not that it matters, I'm just curious.
    You can compare it to the 1975 Sears Gamefisher model (217585710). I don't know if it is the same, but hopefully it is."

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Parkside, Saskatchewan, Canada
    Posts
    4

    Default "No Wayne it just says T.W.5.5

    "No Wayne it just says T.W.5.5 but at the bottom of the I.D. tag it had Simpso imitied on it,the tag has damage on it right in the middle at the bottom,but hey thanks alot for the info,the thing has good compression and spark but the carb is a little bit rusty so I'll see what I can do with it,will keep ya posted."

  11. #41

    Default "meatal tag no.t-643-14a seria

    "meatal tag no.t-643-14a serial no.6705207/like to know what year it is?,it now has a two blade prop.can it be replaced with a three blade? and are parts available?"

  12. #42
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    winterport, maine, usa
    Posts
    2

    Default "Is there a maintenance manual

    "Is there a maintenance manual for a ted williams 5.5 hp outboard motor. Looking for info on carburetor, needle valve,float level...
    thanks for reading this post"

  13. #43
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Athens, GA, USA
    Posts
    6

    Default "I hate to add another questio

    "I hate to add another question to this line-but here goes. I just got a 1973 3 hp Eska/Sear outboard. Am in process of rebuilding the lower unit(was seized up-gears "OK"). Maybe a bigger problem is that the power head will not run. It will start sometimes, but surges from high rpm to about O rpm on a 10 sec frequency and dies after a time. I have cleaned the carb, ck'd popint gap and compression is about 80 psi. Any thoughts on this running problem.

    Thanks"

  14. #44

    Default "Bob, check your reed assembly

    "Bob, check your reed assembly first"

  15. #45
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Quartzsite, Az, usa
    Posts
    489

    Default Mr Wolf If all else fails- you

    Mr Wolf If all else fails- you will find your bottom seal blown. There were three styles of seal. One was 2"+ and the same size as the outer race of the bottom crank bearing. Another was much smaller but the same steel backed rubber seal we all know and love---THEN there was the unsupported rubber lipped "O" ring style the size of the big timkin used in that model. This one had a blind snap ring and aluminum support ring. Best way was to remove crankshaft and pick it out with some tiny persons finger nail. You can test all 3 seals by spraying liberally with wd-40 and spinning the motor. The leakers will bubble. Hope it is just the reed valves- but they usually pop a big flame out the carb.

  16. #46
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Athens, GA, USA
    Posts
    6

    Default "Thanks Bob & William!! I

    "Thanks Bob & William!! I will ck each-what should I look for in the reed assy-bent and such reeds that may not seal?.
    Over the week end I found that the condenser is shorted out (Ordering new points and condenser)- could this cause a surging problem.
    I also have questions regarding the rebuid of the lower unit. That is the drive shaft and prop shaft are a little pitted in the busing area a slightly groove at the seals. Because of cost for new shafts and the condition of the ones I have, I am considering just replacing the seals and get what life I can from this motor with out putting a lot of $ into it - any thoughts?
    Thanks again - I am learning a lot and I guess that is what all this tinkering with old stuff is all about!"

  17. #47
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Quartzsite, Az, usa
    Posts
    489

    Default The seal cuts on the shafts is

    The seal cuts on the shafts is quite common as any exposure to salt and they pitted and deteriorated rather quickly. I've pulled many lowers that were packed with white grease as the shafts and seals wouldn't hold "real" oil. Didn't seem to hurt them any.

    Nothing like the smell of varnished gasoline in the morning.

  18. #48
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Athens, GA, USA
    Posts
    6

    Default "William & Bob--Well I ck&

    "William & Bob--Well I ck'd out the reed valves and saw nothing wrong (all seemed to be sealing and not burnt) and I ck'd out the bottom crank seal (took motor apart to point where I could see the seal-put in plug and turned by hand and did not see any bubbles.
    I just got and replaced the points and condenser-motor now starts after doing this (just ahead of "START" advnace mark) and runs very rough just ahead of the "START" mark. If I try to advance speed it dies and if I apply and choke it dies too??
    I putting the motor back togather I had no reed box gasket (old one broke up) so I cut a new one of thinner mat't and put no setting Permetex on both side (very carefullY) and I had to reuse the carb gasket, so I carefully sanded it flat and parallel.
    I have not changed the plug.

    ANY IDEAS????
    Thanks"

  19. #49
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Quartzsite, Az, usa
    Posts
    489

    Default "Really sounds like you are ge

    "Really sounds like you are getting to much fuel in the med to high range. If you have an adjustable main jet sticking out the bottom of the float bowl, would set it to 1/2 turn and try again. Advance throttle till it runs crapy and close that adjustment. There was a thin gasket on the inside of some carbs- between the nut or(adjustment) that holds on the float bowl. and where it threaded on to the carb. This seal forced all the main jet fuel thru it instead of straight up the threads and would run rich.

    To install you had to thread the main jet/nut thru the carb bowl and put the gasket on it from the inside, then put the bowl on the carb.

    Hope thats it.

    Make sure your ignition is not dropping out on you. I have even tested ignitions with a big drill and socket on the flywheel nut. Get it spinning and watch the spark for miss fires (when on the bench.) "

  20. #50
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Athens, GA, USA
    Posts
    6

    Default "Willaim-Thanks, My carb does

    "Willaim-Thanks,
    My carb does not have an adjustment sticking out the bottom of the float bowel-it does not have any adjustment anywhere that I can see. The float has a "hollow bolt" holding the bowl to the carb-the bolt has a very small hole thru it's wall into it's hollow center. There is a thin fiber gasket between the bolt head and the bowl. Is there posseibly some adjustment somewhere that I can not see?
    Again thanks for the fast response- I appreciate the help.
    I will check the spark for drop out at some higher flywheel speed"

  21. #51
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Quartzsite, Az, usa
    Posts
    489

    Default "You have a fixed main jet 

    "You have a fixed main jet (that's the little holes) They are usually a little oblong from being over tightened, but it doesn't seem to hurt their performance.

    You may have an emulsion tube air vent or float bowl vent plugged. They are right in the throat of the carb near where it starts to neck down. Spray carb cleaner in them and see if it comes out the bottom of the carb body where the float bowl might be. They are only just a little bigger than your main jet holes are."

  22. #52
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Athens, GA, USA
    Posts
    6

    Default "William - thanks!!! I blew c

    "William - thanks!!! I blew carb cleaner & compressed air thru the air vent tube from the bowl side, thru the needle valve orifice and thru what I take is the main jet ( in threaded hole that the hollow bowl bolt goes into and all were clear. I noted that there is a gap between the inside of the bowl and the knob/protrusion that the main jet is in, before the bolt is inserted and tightened (probably closes when the bolt is tighten). There is no gasket between the bowl and that protrusion-just on the outside of the bowl and the bolt head.
    I also spun the flywheel as fast I could using a socket speed crank and saw no drop off in spark. The spark was not terribly bright but it was easliy seen in daylight.
    I reassembled and the motor ran as before-that is only at one advance/speed setting (just ahead of "START" and very roughly.
    I am running the motor with the exhaust in a bucket of water (without drive shaft, gears and prop) and notice that the exhaust is very explosive when the engine fires, I don't know if that is normal? You sure seem to be right about too much fuel as there is a lot of oil floating on top of the water in my bucket and the plug is alway wet whenever I take it out.
    Could there be timing issues-I don't know the history of this motor other than the previous owner said that it was last run about four years ago and it has to be serviced before it could be used then.

    Thanks again!!!"

  23. #53
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Quartzsite, Az, usa
    Posts
    489

    Default "They run like crap with out a

    "They run like crap with out all the lower and water pump spinning. Suggest you put it all back together and try again.

    The pin off the carb that rubs on the ignition advance likes to work loose and then your throttle trails the ignition. See if that is firmly riveted to the carb. If not get a hot solder gun and solder it in place. When the throttle stops, WOT, make sure the throttle plate is wide open. On the cam the throttle pin rides on should be a punch mark-- that is when the cam should be starting to open the throttle."

  24. #54

    Default "i am looking for a propeller

    "i am looking for a propeller for the 5hp sears clutch shift motor. serial number 217-59311, does anyone have one or where I could get this with the hardware to mount?
    thanks"

  25. #55
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Quartzsite, Az, usa
    Posts
    489

    Default "You might try "Sanford &#

    "You might try "Sanford 's goodies" on E-Bay, or "Eska Certified Parts" or "Crowley Marine""

  26. #56
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Gridley, California, USA
    Posts
    1

    Default "Thanks to all, I am new to th

    "Thanks to all, I am new to this Forum and you have answered all my questions about the Sears outboard I have, Thank you very much!!
    Bob"

  27. #57

    Default i recently purchased a 5.5hp t

    i recently purchased a 5.5hp ted williams motor and i was wondering how you can tell if the water pump is working should there be water squirting out somewhere?

  28. #58

    Default "yes, the water should be when

    "yes, the water should be when you put it in gear. when in nuetral but still running there will be no water, but ingear the water comes out from towards the top.
    hope this helps"

  29. #59
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    greensboro, n.c., u.s.a.
    Posts
    56

    Default "hi, can i convert from old st

    "hi, can i convert from old style fuel tank to new style tank and just change the connector on end of fuel line to the old female end that fits engine? Also I need sheer pins for this engine. ordered two from sears and may have ordered wrong number..Ordered part #22 my engine is a 1974 eska 7.5 with the Tecumshe powerhead...#217 5949-1...could some one check behind me to see if i've ordered the wrong number for sheer pins?Thanks guys,"

  30. #60

    Default "Hi, Yes you can put your old

    "Hi, Yes you can put your old fitting on a new style tank, And it appears to me that you ordered the correct shear pin (item # 22) Good luck....."

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