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1985 Siverton wTwin 260 V6 Crusaders

"re: vivid. I'm not adver

"re: vivid. I'm not adverse to trying it. Seems it was designed for the pretty colors. But, it may be thinner, which is better for the props. re: copper paint. There is no aluminum down there, only SS and bronze. So far, no pitting on the trim tabs or shaft. Actually, I do have some shaft pitting, but only under the packing. The hard epoxy paints have been the only stuff to last on any rotating metal."
 
same base - epoxy - different

same base - epoxy - different biocide composition. I was taught not to use copper based paint directly on any of the metal running gear components...maybe the newer compounds have lessened the impact? thanks.
 
"Oh, I should also say I use a

"Oh, I should also say I use a heavy coat of Primocon, over a metal etch wash as well. So, the metal doesnt really touch the AF paint. It's a four coat process total. Every year..
ps: and the transducer takes a third type of AF paint, as not to harm the poly casting."
 
"That will make a bit of diffe

"That will make a bit of difference. I haven't tried the newer hard epoxies on the metal yet, maybe this year will be the year for it.

Agree, the multicoat approach is the only way to get anything to stick and following those detailed directions really matters on that job."
 
Hey all
Just wanted to keep

Hey all
Just wanted to keep you updated. We went ahead and purchased the boat after a second test run went without an overheat. Picked boat up yesterday and sailed her to our slip. Got her to open up to 3600 rpm Wot but it seemed that she could do more. I am thinking the throttle cables may not be set correctly?? any ideas??
 
"Nees a tune up, not getting c

"Nees a tune up, not getting complete spark advance, needs new wires and plugs, secondaries (if a 4 barrel) not opening up, dirty bottom, dinged up props, bad fuel...

Weee! Ain't boating fun!

Jeff"
 
"No - I was getting at if you

"No - I was getting at if you find an issue with one engine, it will likely occur soon on the other engine. Also, when you go shopping, you get to buy two of everything - spark plugs, oil filters, etc."
 
"Hey Barry,

Just wondering

"Hey Barry,

Just wondering if you upgraded the cooling system in your repower and if you did what exhaust manifold and elbow did you use?"
 
Bill

no did not change anyt

Bill

no did not change anything on the cooling system other than water pump and raw water pump. Kept same manifolds and risers.
 
ok. I know the OEM stuff is no

ok. I know the OEM stuff is no longer available. Just wondering what the configuration would be with Mercruiser parts.
 
Bill

check the silverton ow

Bill

check the silverton owners club site there is a tread there with someone replacing manifolds and risers and suggestions what to get and where.
 
Boat is on the hard now and th

Boat is on the hard now and the hull looks good. The bottom paint is a combo of both the flaking stuff with ablative painted over it. Should I just concentrate on the flaking areas to chip and sand and continue with the ablative over it?? or should I try to sand it all off?
 
"I'd just power wash it re

"I'd just power wash it really well and apply abalative from now on. Many people have removed all of the old, hard AF paint to "make her nice and smooth" only to find that speeds didn't improve for all that work and $$$.

Jeff"
 
"I'd figure out what you h

"I'd figure out what you have on there and then see if it is compatible with what you plan to recoat it with - that will tell you what prep is required. When in doubt, call the paint MFG.

I had several areas that gave me fits - flake offs - for several years after getting the boat (new). Turned out the issue was bad prep at the factory - I suspect poor training. wound up stripping it down and applied the barrier coat and then the ablative paint system."
 
"No bottom paint should be &#3

"No bottom paint should be "flaking off". Ablative paint will wear off, but you shouldn't be seeing flakes come off. On new hulls, the mold release will cause flaking. On older hulls, flaking over big areas might mean bad adhesion due to imcompatibility in chemistries. On metal, flaking will be the result of improper priming.
Many yards will have a guy with a water/sand blasting rig that is good for bottom stripping.
I ground off all my gelcoat (30 years old at the time, the boat that is..) and hit it with 6 coats of West and barrier additive and started over with ablative. Been good ever since, no sanding in the last 8 years of bottom prep; Except for all metal, all the paint comes off first."
 
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