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1985 Siverton wTwin 260 V6 Crusaders

B

bobovic04

Member
I am looking at purchasing an

I am looking at purchasing an '85 Silverton 290 with twin V6 260 crusaders. One engine over heated on the test run. found no mud in the oil and started looking for replacement parts for the cooling system. hoping it is just a stuck thermostat. But cant seem to find exhaust manifolds for a V6 online. Any help would be appreciated
 
"Bill:

Unless you're in

"Bill:

Unless you're in love with it, find yourself another boat. Lots of them out there, and great bargains are to be had.

Personally, I really like that efficient and nice looking boat, but THAT one caulked be a money pit.

Jeff"
 
the "260" designator i

the "260" designator isn't for a crusader v-6.

The OEM manifolds are no longer available. best bet would be to use the merc style center riser type and pick the elbow that matches the rest of the exhaust system.
 
"Jeff

Thank you for the r

"Jeff

Thank you for the reply your opinion is well respected by many of the posters here from what I have read.
Since you seem to know this boat are there any specific things I should watch out for (other than other boats) lol, My wife and kids fell in love with the boat."
 
Makomark

Thank you I fou

Makomark

Thank you I found what I was looking for immediately. New to this and was getting frustrated not finding major parts.
 
Bill:

Spend the money to ha

Bill:

Spend the money to have the boat surveyed. They will test out both motors and THEY will be responsible if you have trouble later on.

Any time a motor runs hot you're taking a risk.

Jeff
 
"<font color=""ff0000"">Spend

"<font color=""ff0000"">Spend the money to have the boat surveyed. They will test out both motors and THEY will be responsible if you have trouble later on. </font>

Jeff...
I think a surveyor can advise you about all the "yes" and "nos" of a vessel but I would doubt that you could hold them responsible for something going wrong later on.....

Lets face it, they give an honest opinion and best guess, based on what they see and "run" with but should the engine seize a few days or a week later, it would very hard to get the surveyor to pay for the rebuild........ yes??..no??
happy.gif
"
 
Thank you Don
All help is a

Thank you Don
All help is appreciated I am very new to this. First boat on my own grew up on them but never owned one.
 
"I found it interesting that w

"I found it interesting that we were unable to obtain insurance until a "listed" surveyor sent his survey to the insurance company. Whether we agreed to fix the problems or not never came into question. While we could have operated the boat in its mediocre condition and possibly cost the insurance co a boatload ( could'nt resist) of money, we actually went way beyond every recommendation and made the boat even more valuable and seaworthy. So who has the greater liabilities? Does the ins. co. take the surveyor to task with any elements of a survey IF a claim is made or do they just fight the owner who is expecting the coverage?"
 
"Thank you Al

your feedba

"Thank you Al

your feedback has been a great help as has reading this forum!! the wealth of info here is worth more than any motor manual can replace. Though I do have manuals. You guys are great
Jeff, Mako, Al"
 
I have read alot about winteri

I have read alot about winterizing but it all seems to be in water.(or outboard) My boat will be dry docked for winter. I know it seems like a stupid question but how does my boat get to the hauling dock from my slip once I winterize?
 
"Is OK Bill..... I'm reall

"Is OK Bill..... I'm really a "Dot".....you know what a "Dot" is, don't you???
happy.gif


That's when you leave the job, (retire), and start walking away....the further you get from the job and as you approach the horizon you start to look like a "Dot"........and yes I am a "Dot"
lol.gif
and enjoying everyday out here in "Dotland".
rofl.gif


PS .. if you go to the top of your post you will see in the right corner 3 icons.....click on the pencil and paper and you will have the option to edit your post. I think the option locks you out if you have left the post for an hour.....
Have a great week....
DK"
 
I actually look for info from

I actually look for info from you "Dot" types. I believe your knowledge will only be passed down if we ask.
And I am not afraid to ask
 
"You could do all the plumbing

"You could do all the plumbing, hot and cold water , heads, etc., while the boat is in the water..... If you must use the engines to get to the "haul-out dock" you will have to do the engines onshore. (((I really can't see doing the engines anywhere except onshore)))

Personally I have never done the engines while in the water...Immediately after I have driven to the haul out and as soon as the boat is out of the water, I do my own power-wash on the hull, (that saves me $200.00 right there), and then immediately drain all engine oil and change filters, (including gas/water filters) and put in fresh oil. (Includes the genset)

Next I drain the blocks and the manifolds.
I take a pail of antifreeze mixture, hook it up at the Sea Cock contraption I have, and run the engine(s) and suck all that antifreeze in.

The whole procedure(s) would normally take me about two hours but like all boaters..I get distracted very easily and start looking for more stuff to do when I am in the engine room so it normally takes me almost twice the time.
wink.gif
"
 
"Don...Same thing here, verbat

"Don...Same thing here, verbatim! The distraction is usually gabbing away with others at the marina swapping stories of all kinds"
 
A bonded surveyr is responsibl

A bonded surveyr is responsible--finacially--for the condition of the boat surveyed.

Jeff
 
"Liability depends upon a bunc

"Liability depends upon a bunch of things, the least of which is what type of survey is request and by whom. Best approach to make sure it has a chance of sticking is to ensure YOU hire a competent surveyor (SAMS is a good sign) and he receives written instructions on the whole deal - why they are being hired."
 
Thanks Don
I had read so mu

Thanks Don
I had read so much into it I looked right past the obvious. Everything I read said to bring engines to operating temp prior to draining fluids. Never thought about the trip to the haul slip. The engine temps will be ready.
 
"Bottom Paint ???

That is g

"Bottom Paint ???

That is going to depend on what the bottom is like the first time you pull her out. It will also depend on what kind of bottom paint the boat has on it.

In my case I use Triple X and all I really need to do is from the bottom edge of the hull up to the top of the water line. The bottom has a different type on it and so far has lasted over 8 years and I run in very clean, fresh water so I would imagine that helps as well.

If the bottom of your boat is a real mess(poor paint), you might consider removing all the old paint and puting on some of that real high tech paint..it is expensive but it will last quite awhile...again depending on where you are running.

IF you have to remove your old paint, ask around as there are environmental concerns when removing the old paint and also health concerns for the individual(s) removing the paint. I'm sure some of your boatyard "experts" will be able to point you in the right direction...good luck."
 
"It depends on which type you

"It depends on which type you use. I--and others--have found out the hard way that the ablative paint is the only way to go. It sluffs off gradually during the season, where the hard, non-ablative stuff tends to fall off in ugly patches as it ages. The ablative type just wears slowly away. I touch it up every year where the color contrast shows me the paint is gone.

Pre-painting prep is also easier with this stuff since it reacts to water. Just water blast it a day before painting and it goes on--and stays on. The non-ablative stuff requires hours of sanding and solvent cleaning. Ugh!

Jeff"
 
""I--and others--have foun

""I--and others--have found out the hard way that the ablative paint is the only way to go. It sluffs off gradually during the season, where the hard, non-ablative stuff tends to fall off in ugly patches as it ages. The ablative type just wears slowly away. I touch it up every year where the color contrast shows me the paint is gone. "

YES! It took me years to figure this out! However, i'm having better luck with trinidad on the running gear. All my metal gets trinidad, the plastic gets ablative. Ablative will wear prematurely on rotating metal, shafts, etc."
 
"Me too; but only after hours

"Me too; but only after hours of filthy dirty, back breaking work lying on the ground under a boat!

Jeff"
 
I havent seen the hull yet it

I havent seen the hull yet it is still in water. Thanks guys.
So if I see ugly patches I can chip and sand the old stuff off and the go with the Ablative?
At the cost of Trinidad how often are you guys painting the metal?
 
"Chip, chip away.... Let'

"Chip, chip away.... Let's hope not. You still might have to scuff the paint up for the ablative stuff to stick.

Jeff"
 
"Trinidad: every hauling, whi

"Trinidad: every hauling, which was every year; now, I'm stretching to every 18 to 20 months. The Trinidad gets ground off entirely. I use a 5" disc with 60 grit and a angle grinder with wire wheel for the places the mikita won't reach. The pros use a 8" flex wheel with 24 grit and a good touch."
 
"Dave:

Why Trinidad and not

"Dave:

Why Trinidad and not the Vivid product?

Based on Pettit's ap guide, seems the trinidad isn't the preferred product. Also, with that high copper content, I'd be scared applying it to the drive line metals."
 
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