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Volvo Penta GiIB 2001 Gas Engine Knocks and low power and overheat no WOT

Hey Bill can you point me in t

Hey Bill can you point me in the right direction as to where I can see something on this class action suit. That exact thing is why I had to replace my engine. Thanks Joe
 
"Tom brought that up. Tom, do

"Tom brought that up. Tom, do you have the class action link. I'll do some google searches tonight."
 
Great.
They are suing for &#

Great.
They are suing for 'part of the profit' join in and perhaps you may 'win' to get to pay part of the bankruptcy as well.
 
"Ran the engine this morning.

"Ran the engine this morning. As stated before, #6 seems to be acting better, but #4 is still not contributing. Very disheartening. I guess this is coming down to piston slap.

I did notice a very small drip coming from the radiator pump and removed it this morning. Now I need a torx to get the backplate off.

Question: other than leaks, do these radiator pumps ever fail?"
 
"I seem to be answering a bunc

"I seem to be answering a bunch of my own questions here, but figured I'd post my discoveries in case anyone else is having a similar issue.

I noticed something odd last week but didn't post it because I did not expect it was an issue. After running my engine at idle until the thermostat opened, I shut it down and carefully opened the coolant reservoir. The coolant in the reservoir was cool, like below 90 degrees. Somehow I expected for it to be roughly the same ambient temperature as the rest of the coolant (140+).

Today, after removing the coolant pump, I noticed that the weep hole has a steady drip that increases with rpms. There is a very clear trail showing it exiting the weep hole.

I found the part (non-volvo) for $169 here.

http://www.marineengineparts.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/page5.html

It's clear that the cylinder needs to be addressed, but I am thinking that an underperforming coolant pump may have been the original cause of the overheating that led ultimately to the #4 issue."
 
It's also NAPA part number

It's also NAPA part number 58566 and they have one in Marsh Harbour at Texaco. Guess I'll pick it up on Friday.
 
"bill
I found the class actio

"bill
I found the class action discussion by a simple google search 8.1 litter class action suite/ piston slap or you can try www.classcounsel.com you might be on to something with your water-pump theory. I think its time to stop all this guessing and bite the bullet. Pull the intake and at least the affected head and see what is really going on.Only way to really know if you need a repair or a replacement. A new target crate motor might be your best option, Let me know how your doing. Tom"
 
"bill, I forgot to mention a r

"bill, I forgot to mention a response to your water pump question. as a rule water pumps pump and water pumps leak but very seldom do they suffer from diminished performance. the usual failure is leaking or the bearings going bad or both. for the pump to stop pumping the impeller would have to fall off of the shaft or come loose to the point that it would just spin on the shaft. since there is no contact just the impeller pushing water the design is almost fool proof."
 
WOW!

Coincidence? I think n

WOW!

Coincidence? I think not! Was it on the starboard engine or the port engine. We might as well complete the parallel universe here.
 
"Joe,

Do you still have the

"Joe,

Do you still have the pistons that were damaged? What was the verdict from the mechanic? I'm curious to know if there was

(a) excessive carbon on the pistons or valves
(b) any valve damage
(c) ring problems on the pistons
(d) scratching of the cylinder wall
(e) head gasket rupture of any sort

Thanks for any info you can provide.

Also, is your engine running well now? Do you remember the final bill and hours for the repair?"
 
"A) No excessive carbon
B

"A) No excessive carbon
B) exhaust valves had very minor hardly noticeable nicks and it was very hard to see them.
C) Rings were fine
D) No scratching of the walls
E) Head gasket had failed on the total oposite side where there was no damage to the pistons.
Only noticed that the engine was running ruff and not even that bad so took it to the shop long story short water was in the two pistons and I was wrong it was #4 and #8 pistons, so easy fix just replace head gaskets and hope nothing was damaged like heads or block well after getting the heads off that's when we discoverd the bad pistons. The engine overheat alarm never sounded. I went with a new engine from http://www.perfprotech.com/store/product/New-GM-Longblock-81L496cid-375hp-81496S TD,25311.aspx I just removed all the parts from the old engine and put them on this one went ahead and got new exhaust manifolds and risers and I have over 60 hours on this engine seems very smooth, but so did the old one. Total cost about 10 grand and I did allot of the work myself, other than putting the engine in the boat only because it is to high.
I cant say and the mechanics that worked on it as well as our insurance company's inspector ( It wasn't covered ) could tell me how it happened just lots of guessing. I love the power the engine has and I do have 2 friends with the same engine and they have not had any trouble, so I think maybe just my bad luck."
 
"Installed the new fresh water

"Installed the new fresh water (coolant) pump. This is clearly an improvement regarding temperature and the weephole no longer leaks. I noticed that my oil pressure stays at an acceptable level at low rpms and idle but drops suddenly above 1800 rpms. Took her out and ran her. The stbd engine set off the alarm and I was finally able to trap the code of 'low oil pressure telltale'. I had a spare oil pressure sender (don't ask) so I swapped it. It showed exactly the same issue. I believe that the oil pump pressure release valve is faulty and staying open at high rpms thereby killing oil pressure.

As stated: It rises gradually with engine rpm and then drops of suddenly anywhere between 1700 and 1800 rpm. When rpms are brought back down, the oil pressure comes back up. Any other theories besides pressure release valve on the oil pump?"
 
"From what I can see in the ph

"From what I can see in the photo of your spark plugs, You may have had the wrong plugs installed, And maybe wrong gap to. You should be running AC delcos.AC 41-983. You might want to make sure the number you are running will cross over to the AC 41-983, But if I was you I would still not run anything but the AC 41-983 just to be safe. Just my 02 worth is all, But i wish you Good luck with it.
happy.gif
"
 
"Following the sudden oil pres

"Following the sudden oil pressure drop at high rpms, I decided that it was possible that the pressure release valve on the oil pump could be faulty. My theory was that the pressure release valve spring was weak and that the pressure release was getting stuck.

So I swapped the oil pump by dropping the oil pan, etc. What a pain in the A$$!! The total job took about 8 hours in cramped quarters.

I tested by letting the engine idle for 5 minutes. Then I ran the engine to 2200 rpms for 10 minutes. Oil pressure looked fine at first staying steady between 40 and 60 psi. Then, it dropped and would not come back until I stopped the engine, let it sit and then fire it up again.

Suspecting a faulty sensor, I replaced it only to get the same reading. Already troubleshot the gauge by swapping it as well.

At this point, all I can think is that my oil has been pushed up into the engine, but is not coming back down to the oil pan quickly enough. This allows the oil pump to pump air, killing the pressure.

Are there any other thoughts out there. I've gotten surprisingly few responses from this thread. I can only guess it's because the problem is so difficult to diagnose and has so many variables.

To sum up, what else causes low oil pressure at moderate rpms besides a faulty oil pump?

FYI, for those of you following the thread, oil pressure has always been the issue. The alarm was never related to engine overhead, but rather low oil pressure."
 
"Could be worn out bearings.

"Could be worn out bearings. When the oil warms and thins out, too much oil will pass thru the journals dropping oil pressure. Just a thought."
 
"Also, are you sure you change

"Also, are you sure you changed out the sender for the gauge and not the alarm? They are separate and different, the sender for the gauge is much larger. They are usually in the same vicinity."
 
"I swapped the analog sender.

"I swapped the analog sender. I checked continuity of the bell housing to ground. Then I switched to the ohmmeter where it read about 90 ohms which corresponds to roughly 55 PSI. I found a table online (for 0-80psi gauges) from Faria:

240 ohms = 0 psi
103 ohms = 40psi
33.5 ohms = 80psi

I was getting 90 ohms on the multimeter even when my analog gauge was reading zero. Funny thing is that I swapped the gauge so it's not the issue. It turned out to be the damn wiring. It fails at some random point, I suppose when the vibration kicks in. I already had a small gauge wire run for a previous troubleshooting job (don't ask). After this wire swap, the oil pressure seems to be reliable....I guess I swapped an oil pump for no reason


So now, I'm just back to the tapping in the engine and the low oil pressure telltale during high rpms. I'm tired of dealing with it honestly and think I'll cruise until the engine fails and has to be replaced. I'll just keep my distances short for now."
 
"Bill, did you repair your oil

"Bill, did you repair your oil-telltale issue yet, I have some answers fo4r you if not."
 
The low oil pressure analog ga

The low oil pressure analog gauge issue went away after I swapped the wire. I haven't run the engine up to high enough RPMs yet to set off the low oil telltale. I'd love to hear what you have to say though.
 
"Bill, not sure how wiring got

"Bill, not sure how wiring got mixed up....
Anyway, I just repaired a customer with the same issue..on a 2001 8.1 gxi-a .
volvos have 2 sensers that will alarm AND reduce rpm.
(with mefi 4 GM ign.) 1 is low oil press and 1 is high water temp. This engine...on rinda tool, kept showing fault at low oil pressure....This was not the problem, The water temp sensers in the RISER are in the same system , therefore showing low oil pressure code on the scanning tool.
This prob. made me crazy for a week,
Look into this, remember you need to run engine at least 3000 rpms.
Hope this helps ya."
 
"First to clarify. My engine h

"First to clarify. My engine has never reduced RPM on its own. It beeps when RPMs are held over 3200 RPM for anything longer than a few minutes while under load. When I check the MEFI, the low oil pressure telltale is set.

You said "The water temp sensers in the RISER are in the same system". I'm not sure what you mean by this.

How did you solve the problem? Did it turn out to be a faulty water temperature sensor? If so, did you replace it/them? How many sensors were faulty?

On a related note, where is the sensor for the low oil pressure telltale? Is that the clip at the end of the same T where the analog sender is screwed on?

Thanks for helping me with the issue. Sorry for my ignorance regarding the location of these sensors."
 
"Lee,

Thanks for the talk o

"Lee,

Thanks for the talk on the phone. To summarize, you are of the opinion based upon experience, that the low oil pressure telltale could possibly be triggered by a faulty temperature switch on either of the manifolds since GM/Volvo may not have necessarily provided for a separate annunciator. I have confirmed that the manifolds are not running hot to the touch. This leads me to believe that I may have one or two bad temp switches on the manifold. I may swap one with the port engine. None of this changes that fact that my stbd engine clacks still and likely has a cylinder or valve issue.

Lee, my email is [email protected] if you'd like to send me the MEFI codes manual that you mentioned."
 
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