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Results 1 to 6 of 6
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Rochester, New York, United States
    Posts
    42

    Default My brother pulled the boat wit

    My brother pulled the boat with the 85 Force out of the water to store but forgot to run the gas out or treat the gas. Is there any way that I can make sure the fuel doesn't gum up the carbs over the winter?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Inverary, Ontario, Canada - The Great White North Eh!
    Posts
    8,397

    Default "Remove the carbs and drain ou

    "Remove the carbs and drain out the bowls - not as big a job as it sounds.

    Alternately, if you can put a flushing device on the motor, IDLE the motor right on the boat on dry land and run some stablizer through the system...."
    Graham

    A "professional" is someone who gets paid for their work - it doesn't necessarily mean they are good at it :)

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Woodstock, Illinois, USA
    Posts
    3

    Default "Hi, I have 1989 125HP outboar

    "Hi, I have 1989 125HP outboard Force and I like to know how to wintireze this motor my self, anyone can help me?"

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Inverary, Ontario, Canada - The Great White North Eh!
    Posts
    8,397

    Default "Winterizing is easy - put som

    "Winterizing is easy - put some fuel stablizer in the gas and run the motor for about 10 minutes to let it work it's way all through the system. This will prevent clogs in the carbs and reeds primarily.

    Alternately, you can remove the carbs and physically empty them out.

    Second, grease everything that needs it - so anywhere there may be a grease fitting (around the bracket etc), the end of the steering cable, any cable connections etc (anything that moves).

    You can use special "marine grease" for that - I just use high speed bearing grease or a lithium grease - whatever is close by in the shop - all work well.

    Remove the spark plugs and give a little spray of fogging oil into each cylinder (available at marine dealers or just about any automotive place for under 5 bucks) - with the spark plugs still out you should be able to rotate the flywheel a couple of turns to get the oil well spread around, then put the sparkplugs back in to keep the cooties out.

    If the plugs are due to be replaced, do it now so you don't have to fiddle around in the spring.

    You can use WD-40 in a pinch instead of fogging oil, but it's not quite the same thing.

    While you still have the spray can of oil in your hand, spray a light coat on everything under the hood - engine block itself, wires, hoses, ignition parts - it will keep moisture and other cooties from causing you problems.

    If you do your own maintenance, now is the time to change the impeller if it's due (every 2 years).

    Change the lower gear oil (for two reasons - first, if there is water in the lower unit it could freeze and crack the case - of course depending on whether your area sees freezing temps or not - plus, it should be changed at least once a year and if you do it now it will be ready in the spring).

    Other than that, if you leave the motor on the boat keep it tilted all the way down - that will allow any residual water to drain out properly.

    Also, if parked "outside" I would cover the hood (at minimum) to keep as much weather out as possible.

    One note about gas tanks. If you have a built in tank it should be stored either completely full (with the fuel stablizer in the gas) and the vents blocked off (that's the recommendation but personally I don't like storing gas with no ventilation) - OR - the tank should be completely empty (or as empty as you can get it and then leave the last little bit to evaporate.

    Just about all gas contains ethanol which attracts moisture. So a completely full (or totally empty) helps alleviate water in the tank problems.

    So, you can see there isn't much to it..."
    Graham

    A "professional" is someone who gets paid for their work - it doesn't necessarily mean they are good at it :)

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Woodstock, Illinois, USA
    Posts
    3

    Default "Hi Graham, thankyou very much

    "Hi Graham, thankyou very much for your big help I really apreciate."

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Blythewood, S.C., USA
    Posts
    3

    Default "I have a 1966 Chrysler 50 hp.

    "I have a 1966 Chrysler 50 hp. Model # 50661, serial # 7285. Can anyone tell me where to find carboretor and fuel pump kits ?

    Thank you"

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