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Thread: 350 CID

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Conestoga, Pa, USA
    Posts
    199

    Default "Well men, after 4 long years

    "Well men, after 4 long years I think we have discovered what ailes my engine. I had 4 mechanics look at it and none could figure it out until I ran into a retired race car mechanic that raced small block Chevy engines. It turns out that the loss of power and rpms at top end while still ideling ok is the result of a head gasket. There was no water in the oil but the plugs were oily on the odd cylinder side only. Compression was off on that side also. I did as all suggested and found nothing wrong or out of place.Virtually everything else was replaced so here I go with the head gasket. If there are any "tips" or "tricks of the trade" I should know before attempting this please post them. Thanks again to all, Bob"

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Kawarthas
    Posts
    3,224

    Default check for head and block flatn

    check for head and block flatness

    I can only think of two head re&re tips and tricks
    1. permatex 2 non hardening for head bolt threads at reassembly
    2. use compression gauge to set valves

    other than that I just do what the manual says


    4 years before doing a compression test?
    No one ever suggested that?
    Factory Manual Best, Seloc 2nd best, Clymer if you're desperate.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Posts
    147

    Default "use a marine gasket and follo

    "use a marine gasket and follow the proper torque sequence using a 1/3, 2/3, full torque method. They go on dry."

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Northboro, Ma, USA
    Posts
    4,788

    Default "Keep ALL PUSH RODS IN THE EXA

    "Keep ALL PUSH RODS IN THE EXACT ORDER WHEN YOU GO TO PUT THEM BACK IN!!

    Get some scoth bright to clean off the surfaces after head is removed.

    Also I would do BOTH as you are allready half way there.

    Take your time and ask questions.

    Get 1 gallon zip lock bags and label them very clearly with the parts you removed ( nuts and bolts, etc....)

    Get a digital camera and take a lot of pictures of wiring, and other locations of pieces and parts for a good way of seeing what it all needs to look like when reassembling.

    This is not a dificult job and can be done in one afternoon....

    The most difficult part is getting the heads back on cleanly without damaging the gasket.

    On the intake front and rear do NOT use the cork/rubber gaskets. Use a 1/4 inch diameter bead of black rtv ( oil resistant) and over lab the intake gasket tabs.

    Befor dissasembly get the motor to TDC with the mark on the harmonic balancer and confirm with the position of the rotor pointing to number one wire. This will make reinstallation of the distributor easier.

    Just some pointers......"
    Jack
    Northborough Ma
    Helping others sometimes with an attitude....haha..

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Kawarthas
    Posts
    3,224

    Default "you'll also need to order

    "you'll also need to order new exhaust manifold gaskets and maybe riser gaskets depending on whether you want to lift the manifold and riser together or separate

    For the heads, they might have what is commonly called a "valve grinding" gasket set- cheaper than buying all the gaskets separately.

    I use a nice composite automotive head gasket - FelPro or similar good for marine- all FelPro have stainless steel fire rings"
    Factory Manual Best, Seloc 2nd best, Clymer if you're desperate.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Lowell, MA
    Posts
    1,217

    Default "if the engine is aged and wel

    "if the engine is aged and well used, I would think about doing a valve job, or at least some valve lapping. help improve compression numbers, by reducing leaking valves."

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sydney, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    208

    Default "1/ Everything the other guys

    "1/ Everything the other guys said.

    2/Drain water from block drains (2)and exhaust manifolds (2)!!!!!!!!!!!!

    3/ lotsa photos before you start.

    4/Plug all holes in valley so you dont drop anything into the sump. I buy a packet of paper napkins. roll em up and stuff em into holes. use em to cover up the lifters aswell, whilst you scrape clean gasket surfaces. check you got em all out before assembly.

    5/Use LOCTITE 510 on exhaust riser gaskets. you can use it for exhaust ports aswell, I do good stuff.

    6/If salt water use, coat all bolts and threads with Never Sieze. (not head bolts).

    Post a photo of your head gasket problem for us."

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    SW Ohio, USA
    Posts
    10,396

    Default Use NEW head bolts for proper

    Use NEW head bolts for proper torque. Use a thread chaser and NOT a tap on the head bolt threads to clean them out. Blow out w/comp. air.
    Fix minor things (replace wear items for preventative maintenance.) that cause major problems before they break.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Bay Shore, New York,
    Posts
    102

    Default "DO both heads! Consider have

    "DO both heads!
    Consider haveing the heads at least inspected at a machine shop.
    Be prepared for suprises! After the heads are pulled, inspect the pistons and cylinders carefully-expect some concerns.
    Inspect the old head gaskets!! If it was leaking, there should be evidence of it
    What everyone else says
    Chris"

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