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How to wire Quicksilver volt meter new alternator

txgalzdah

Regular Contributor
"1967 120hp 153CI I4. Started

"1967 120hp 153CI I4. Started the engine yesterday. I ran off the battery for a short while. She purrs like a kitten.
I have read many of the past posts on alternator hook up and the volt meter but admit I have writers block when it comes to wiring.
The alternator has the ground at the casing, the BAT post is wired to the hot post on the starter solenoid. There is a wire plug with a red and black wire, 14 gauge, coming off the back of the alternator.
I have connected the red wire, assuming this is the Field to the Blue wire that goes to the middle post of the Transistor Voltage regulator. I have connected the black wire to common ground.
Does this sound correct?
The Quicksilver volt gauge has three posts, grnd, ignition and sender. The ground is good, the ignition post comes off the switch. Which wire is the sender?
Once I get this straightened out please tell me how to check. I read the post on this a couple of months ago but cant seem to find it now when I need it.
I want to thank everyone that has helped so far. Once we got her tweaked in and up on her legs we had half the neighborhood out for a peak. My son and I were smiling like a possum nawin on a sweet tater.
Also, I didn't mention, everything is new.
TxGalz Dah"
 
The sender should be a 12 volt

The sender should be a 12 volt source; do you have a wiring diagram you can post? If I can see one then I'll know where each wire goes.
 
"If you are using a AMP meter

"If you are using a AMP meter the you would have three (3) connections. power in and power out of the meter.

A typical volt meter needs only 2 wires.
(Ignition on) and ground.

A third wire if used, would/could/should be for a light in the guage.

Here is a drawing I think is correct.

If someone else has a schematic handy they can chime in and correct anything that may be wrong.


293121.jpg
"
 
I just looked thru one of my m

I just looked thru one of my manuals and the meter shown in the dash wiring section shows a volt meter with the S and I and Ground terminals.

The S terminal is NOT used when it is a volt meter. So what ever color wire is the (KEY INGNITION ON) 12 volts then that is the wire used to connect to the volt meter. It should also be the same wire going (jumped) to all the other guages
 
"I am using the Cylmer manual

"I am using the Cylmer manual pub B740 1964-1985, Mercruiser Sterndrive Shop manual, page 560. It is the only diagram for the 120hp with the Transisitor voltage regulator. The diagram shows an ammeter but when I hook it up per the diagram the gauge gives no indication.
I look at Kghosts diagram and I didn't have it right either way I guess. The documentation with the gauge calls it a "Battery gauge". The face shows Volts not amps.
Right now I have it wired as a volt meter but had to stop before I could test it. Something about grilling and swilling with the family took some priority. I won't be able to get a kitchen pass until Tuesday.
Guy, if you happen to have a copy of that Cylmer manual I would appreciate any input. I think it was one of your old posts that I was trying to look up last night. I guess I was too tired from the excitment to find the post I was looking for. Sure is a good feeling to get an antique to come back to life.
TxGalz Dah"
 
TxGalzDah:

Kghost's dr


TxGalzDah:

Kghost's drawings are correct.

I don't have a Clymer manual; just a 1964-91
SELOC and Merc. factory manual for 1987. The dash gauge diagram shows red/white stripe wire from the alt. goes to the left side of the ammeter and continues onward and a red wire from the battery goes to the right side.

My dash uses a sea blue wire for gauge lighting.
 
"The diagrams I have show the

"The diagrams I have show the amp meter being in series between the battery and the ignition switch. that said, they have incorrect labeling on the ign switch terminals. the only reason for a ground terminal on the amp meter is for the bulb to work.

As far a checking out the volt meter - turn the key on. if it shows a nominal 12V, you are good. The alternator is a bit more complicated but not hard.
As far as the alternator goes, do you know what type it is as that would help a bunch (motorola and delco were popular back then)? Like BT said, most use sense and excite leads."
 
"Guy,
My Cylmer drawing has t


"Guy,
My Cylmer drawing has the ammeter setup with the red/white wire as you described. I did not have much luck with that. I have the volt meter set up per Kghosts drawing but have not had a chance to test it out. I'll see if I can get out tonight.

BtDoctur,
The Seloc diagram that I am now following shows two wires coming off the alternator that are purple and purple/red. I assume this is sense and excite. My problem is the wires coming out of the alternator I have installed are red and black. I equated the red wire to the purple/red and the black wire to the purple. Did I hit ball park or am I still a dookie brain?
Thanks yall
TxGalz Dah"
 
"makomark,
Looks like we


"makomark,
Looks like we were typing at the same time.
proud.gif
I ordered a Delco. Sorry I dont have the model number. It is buried in the heap of paperwork that I am behind on. It was advertised as a 3-wire 65amp delco.
TxGalz Dah"
 
"Hey folks,
I was doing some


"Hey folks,
I was doing some search at lunch time and found the post I was looking for from Guy on 7/17/2009.
"Most engines use orange for the alt. output, black for ground, purple for sensor, red w/purple stripe exciter."
This was the info I was looking for and brings me back to my question. On my 65amp Delco 3-wire I have the red lead and the black lead coming out of the plug. I am using my red lead to go to the Transistor Voltage regulator as the sense lead. But the other lead I have going to ground for the excite lead. Am I backards? Where would the other end of the excite lead be connected to? I dont have my diagram with me.
TxGalz Dah"
 
"You most like have an ARCO re

"You most like have an ARCO rebuild of the delco alternator. RED is ARCO's sense code and either BLACK or PURPLE is their excitation color.

These would match up RED(alt) to PUR-RED (harness) and BLACK(lt) to PUR (harness). Usually the PUR-RED comes from a BATTERY feed and the PUR is switched with the ign switch. If you need a quick and dirty, just put a ring terminal on the RED (alt) lead and tie it to the alternator output lug."
 
"And he walked from the darkne

"And he walked from the darkness into the light. Now I got it.
thumbs_up.gif
The wiring diagram just became more than a page full of lines.
Many thanks to you all. I will let you know how I come out.
TxGalz Dah"
 
"Here is the "Rest of the

"Here is the "Rest of the Story..." turns out the new wire harness, instr side, is DOA with a short. Only getting 2 volts at the switch.
Marina is ordering a new harness, no charge.
angry.gif
"
 
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