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Replaced power pack now no power under load

marineman43

Contributing Member
"Model # J150STLCEM
Serial #


"Model # J150STLCEM
Serial # R08269992

Took my boat to a mechanic because the hot horn was going off. He said was power pack and replaced it.
Now the boat has no power.(Ran fine before)Wont get past 2,000 rpms.
Starts up fine.
Took it on the lake today and its not getting hot and no horn now.
Checked the cylinders and feels like the port side 3 are cooler than the others.
Symptoms are... When its at idle,I hear a hesestation ,like a skip,when I give it throttle its doing the same thing.
Thought maybe was in slow mode. Can I unhook the temp sender wires when not running with key on and ground them? Then the horn should sound right?

Any thoughts would be great.

Mike
293093.jpg
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"Update,just took the plugs ou

"Update,just took the plugs out and took a picture of them.

Top starboard side looks different than others.
Have detailed pictures on this link.

http://southeastmarinerepair.com/page3.php?view=thumbnailList&category=3"
 
"check for spark on all 6 plug

"check for spark on all 6 plugs. It is possible that your motor is not running on all 6 cylindars. Is that a single powerpack motor, or is there two of them on it ? Get a service manual and check the powerpack."
 
"According to my book, the ora

"According to my book, the orange/BLUE pair goes to the top coils, the orange pair goes to the middle coils, and the orange/GREEN pair goes to the bottom coils.

There is no mention of an Orange/Black wire pair.

Hey...if my mechanic said the PP was bad for an overheat alarm, and then mis-wired the new PP he sold you...well.....I won't even finish the sentence."
 
Sorry ..orange blue.
So he ha


Sorry ..orange blue.
So he had it wrong! The Prick

Looks like I got it right..maby it will get up to rpms and plane
 
"And, believe it or not, the w

"And, believe it or not, the way I hook em up, is the wires coming out the port side of the PP is the port side of the motor, same for the starboard.
Theoretically, you could swap orange port for orange starboard....couldn't you?

Get your money back for the labor...."
 
"So true,but this engine only

"So true,but this engine only has one power pack!

This screw up he did would cause me to not fire right on the cylinders ...is this true?

The boat would barley go."
 
"Yes. exactly. I know you onl

"Yes. exactly. I know you only have one PP.
But the wires exit out the PP body somewhere, right? So the ones exiting the port side of the PP go to the port coils and same for starboard. Kinda a bad way to figure out which side is which...."
 
"IT did backfire a few times,I

"IT did backfire a few times,I hope its right coming out of the pack ( 3 on one side 3 on the other)

No way to know this huh?
Engine does start right up,have not done a water test yet"
 
"I figured it would backfire..

"I figured it would backfire...would just about have to. Run the bad boy!!! See what happens.
watch out for overheating, because your original post is what it is all about. The mechanic did nothing to fix an overheat horn."
 
"I just got around to reading

"I just got around to reading this thread. The powerpack has absolutely nothing to do with a overheating problem. Hopefully you kept your old powerpack as it is no doubt a fully functioning powerpack you can have for a spare. If you don't have it, I suggest that you pay your "mechanic" a visit and demand it be returned to you. Bottom line is that you paid a great amount for a component you didn't need.

Constant steady warning horn, assuming that the water supply is plentiful = Failing water pump, Jammed or otherwise failing thermostats, Debris in water tube and/or water passages, Failing head gasket that would allow the combustion to enter the water passages (check compression), Swelled and expanding water deflectors restricting water flow.

On the V6 engine, the constant steady warning horn caused by a fuel restriction, the usual restriction being......

(Fuel Anti Siphon Valve)
(J. Reeves)

Many of the later OMC V/6 engines incorporate a fuel restriction warning via a vacuum device attached to the powerhead. If the engine overheats, or if you have a fuel restriction, the warning is the same.... a steady constant beep.

NOTE... Only the V/6 & V/8 engines have the above "Fuel Restriction Warning". The warning horn will not sound on the other models.

The fact that a engine is not overheating, but the warning horn sounds off with a constant steady beep, and that the rpms drop drastically would indicate that the engine is starving for fuel due to a fuel restriction. Check the built in fuel tank where the rubber fuel line attaches to the tank fitting. That fitting is in all probability a "Anti Siphon" valve which is notorious for sticking in a semi closed position. It will be aluminum, about 2" long, and the insides of it will consist of a spring, a ball, and a ball seat. If this valve exists, remove it, knock out those inner components which will convert it to a straight through fitting, then re-install it. Hopefully that cures the problem.

The above procedure will cure a restriction problem with the anti siphon valve as stated. BUT, it may also allow fuel to drain backwards to the fuel tank when the engine is not running (siphoning backwards) due to the fact that the carburetors/fuel pump etc are higher than the fuel tank. This condition is not an absolute as the valves in the fuel primer bulb usually prevent this backwards siphoning problem. However.... if this does take place, the cure would be to install a new anti siphon valve.

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay store at:

http://stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-Johnson-Outboard-Parts-etc?refid=store

Finally..... The horn itself has been known to fail at times and would sound constantly. The test here would be (while the horn is sounding) to remove the TAN wire form the horn. If the horn continued to sound, the horn is shorted and must be replaced."
 
he sold you a powerpack instea

he sold you a powerpack instead of dealing with overheat problem.back firing usually causes flywheel bolts to break instead of doing internal damage.omc flywheel bolts designed to break first.careful flywheel could be loose.
correct timming &carb syncronization crucial to engine preformance.overheating may be from improper timing.
 
"'back firing usually caus

"'back firing usually causes flywheel bolts to break instead of doing internal damage.'

Could you please explain this one?
I have never seen that engine with a 'bolted' flywheel'. To my experience they all have a nut and key for locking flywheel in position relative to crank?
The OIS 60 loopers, Fichts and E-techs however have bolts, but breaking them is new to me."
 
one set of the orange wires ou

one set of the orange wires out of the powerpack are long enough to reach the starboard side coils only. the other set is longer and can reach the port side coils. also make sure they are seated firmly on the coil.

the plug wires have a short and long end them as well. make sure the mechanic attached the short end to the coil and the long end to the plug.

I would check everything from this guy.

good luck !!
 
correction on flwheel bolts fo

correction on flwheel bolts for that application it has possible sheared flywheel key.1999j90pleeb was the last model i dealt with that sheared all the bolts on the flywheel because the previous owner had coil wires incorrect at starting.however replacement bolt for those models are made of softer metal so no damage occurs to crankshaft etc..yep sheared them like they werent there.
 
Justa...this is a 1989 150. O

Justa...this is a 1989 150. One big NUT and a key holding flywheel. Cannot "shear flywheel bolts". Get the ignition wiring right..and I bet it scats....but watch out for overheating. Possible problem not resolved yet.
 
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