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Drive Damper Assembly Problem

"There is a most definate diff

"There is a most definate differance between that dampner and the one on my 350!
293304.jpg
dampner for 350 chevy
 
"Rich,

Thanks for taking th


"Rich,

Thanks for taking the time to send those pictures. I have everything ready to go. I just have to get the boat over to the marina at about 6 kts tops! All of the mounts are just pinned, the cables and hoses are off and the coupler has 2 bolts to loosen to separate the shaft from the rest of the assembly. Should be fun getting in close to that nice warm port engine to take out those two bolts..."
 
"Al:

I pinged the ALTO tech


"Al:

I pinged the ALTO tech support guys. They said the most likely cause is hitting something.

I'd suspect you would have heard it if you had hit something....I know the few times I've had that happen, there was no doubt about it.

I sent a followup inquiry about the prop situation but don't expect a reply until tomorrow. if its noteworthy, I'll post it.

Don't forget to bring a big drain pan to catch all the parts when you separate the gear. Picking them up would be rough on the fingers."
 
"Mark,

Thank you for the se


"Mark,

Thank you for the search and information.

I thought about hitting something also BUT, unless it was floating, there was plenty of water and this is USUALLY the problem I face around these shoaling waters. OF COURSE, If we had hit something big enough to STOP the engine at that speed (RPM, not SOG) I should see it on the prop when we haul the boat to pull the engine.

I remember it was more like it slipped out of gear after the 'grenade' feel. Once the speed dropped off, it was all over. Maybe 2-3 seconds. We had just fueled up too. Now that you've brought it up, I can't get that idea out of my mind...DID we hit something? I'll know Friday and post. In the mean time, I have 99% of it disconnected.

HERE's another question. Currently the motor mounts are mounted to stacked 1/2" plywood strips and then to 90 degree angle iron attached to the stringer and it is all tied together with a 6" x 1/2" stainless steel bolt. I would like to replace the 4 or 5 strips of plywood....what do you suggest I use to equal the height of those plywood pieces? Newer treated plywood or is there something better?"
 
"No friggin plywood. I'd b

"No friggin plywood. I'd be inclined to use the same stuff the angle is made from...minimize the galvanic opportunities. If you have access to stainless plate, it sure looks nice once it's polished (call EJ, quick). I've heard epoxy paint does pretty well protecting angle iron but don't have any first hand experience...all the angles on mine are anodized aluminum (not at the mounts though)."
 
Hey Mark...Remember these post

Hey Mark...Remember these posts? September 2008

Motor Mount Lag Bolt Fun

Just read thru them. I may do something similiar since it is off anyway
 
"OK...I'm confused.. I rea

"OK...I'm confused.. I read Ricks thoughts about using 4" angle iron 1/4" thick.. I can get that easily. Are you suggesting something else if so, what ? Is aluminum strong enough to take the abuse?"
 
"..." Is aluminum strong e

"..." Is aluminum strong enough to take the abuse?"

I resemble that remark! (My whole boat is made out of aluminum.)

Plywood (marine grade) is good stuff for such a service: tough, doesn't compress readily, and doesn't transmit vibration like metal does.

Something to consider...
Jeff"
 
"I concur with Jeff. Marine p

"I concur with Jeff. Marine plywood is very tough stuff, absorbs shock, can be fashioned into most any shape with simple tools, and is readily available at most boat yards. If it makes you feel better you can coat it with epoxy. It will easily last another 20 years if you do so, and probably nearly as long if you don't."
 
"OK, All great answers. My pr

"OK, All great answers. My problem is, I will likely need to replace the angle Iron as it looks like 25 years of use has weathered it some. My current "stack" of plywood is about 3 inches tall, is it still ok to buld it up like this or should I invert the angle iron from an "L" to more like a one sided "T" and take up some space and use (1) 3/4" piece of plywood instead of (6) 1/2" pieces?"
 
"I've got angle AL for the

"I've got angle AL for the mounts, coming off the boat's heavily glassed, plywood stringers. I do have a couple of AL spacer plates in a couple of locations, since the Crusader adj mounts ran out of throw. I don't use plywood, since sagging will affect engine alignment. Plus, the rot issue, especially on these horiz pieces. So, the mounting is pretty rigid, and I don't get objectionable vibs. I do use drivesavers, might help, dunno."
 
"Dave,

I had also sent an e


"Dave,

I had also sent an email to Silverton and their tech said White Pine is a favorite and today in the "modern" world, they use starboard when they need to shim an engine

At work we have an iron supplier and he is going to cut 10" long pieces of 1/4" galvanized angle iron. As I see it, IF those currently in place lasted 25 years, and they are NOT 1/4"....these new one will surely survive.

My next decision is to determine if placing the "L" up or down makes a structural difference. As for the drive savers, I was going to install them the last time we had to do shaft/strut work...HMMM!"
 
"Al,
When I did the work on m


"Al,
When I did the work on my engine, like you I found the forward engine mount was pretty well gon. This is what I replaced it with.
293347.jpg
front mount
 
"Al:

all of the anluminum a


"Al:

all of the anluminum angles on my boat are on the tower or reinforcing certain deck areas - none are used at the engine mounting points. I do have two "shim plates" cut from 6061T6 that are 'hardcoated'.

I wouldn't use plywood as shims - Dave summarized the concerns pretty well. If you look up the 'compression characteristics', you'll find it is really "soft" in the 'vertical' dimension when used to shim the mounts. If you are cutting new angles, you shouldn't need any shims.

On the orientation, I don't see how you get them in w/o the L being down....I figured the dilemma would be inside or outside of the stringer. The driving factor there would be the stringer, not the angle. Initial look says smaller twisting moments by putting the down leg on the inside. There isn't a lot of difference so if it is quicker and easier to put them on the outside, I'd go that way.
------
Paul - can you provide a link to an unreduced version of that pic? I tried zooming in and it got grainy really fast."
 
"Mark,

Man you are a wealth


"Mark,

Man you are a wealth of information. I thank you again for it. HOWEVER, (always however or but) Since the space is wide open, when I install the angle iron, I have free run of the open area as the engine will be out and it is probably easier as I just bolt it on the stringer in any orientation. IF I were to mount it with the "L" upside down so to speak, I wind up raising the space by 2-3 inches or so and can eliminate all but 1 shim or so. EITHER WAY, the iron is going on the inside of the stringer. I plan on using some starboard I have left over from some other projects. Would you concur with that idea OR is it structurally better to orient the "L" as an "L".

I read your comments as it being better to use the original positions and shim the hell out of it. IF I re-drill the holes in the stringer, Besides sealing the new and OLD holes, Should there be a need to re-inforce the old holes with thickened epoxy or cloth? I would REALLY prefer to do the best job I can on it since I DO NOT want to do this again.
rain.gif
"
 
"I don't see how you put 4

"I don't see how you put 4" angles under your mounts oriented _| o |_ without notching for the trunions.

Don't know about the starboard's compression resistance so can't say. If it swishes, you just get to change it again.

If you are going to add the drivesavers, you may find it worth sliding the engine(s) forward an inch. either way, it is alway goo practive to seal up any unused holes in the stringers. I usually bore the hose clean and then add a hardwood dowel, covered in epoxy.

when you mentioned the angle mounts, earlier, I thought about that old post...and all the fun extracting those snapped off S/S lag bolts...

Maybe you should get 6" wide angle???"
 
"Mark... 15 years ago my broth

"Mark... 15 years ago my brother and I were working with dental lab tools. It was a 1 hp motor with a quick release chuck so you could change the cutters without stopping the motor. There was a warning label on the 1 1/2" round chuck that, as I READ IT SAID " Let Chuck Snap Up"

After a few months my brother said...WHY do you do that? Just let the handle snap up like that? I never realized that when I looked on the OTHER SIDE of the label beyond the curve of my viewpoint...in red letters on an aluminum tag it said "DO NOT"
lol.gif


Now that we have that straight...I am referring to
293357.jpg
Iron"">
Currently they are like an"L" would look if you put the bolts into the vertical side of the quoted "L"....the opposite of this drawing...... where the engine mount is Shimmed enough to get it above the stringer."
 
That'd work. Just be sure

That'd work. Just be sure you seal the hell out of any holes drilled through those stringers (or rot will occur).

Jeff
 
"Paul,
I was going to replace


"Paul,
I was going to replace it with a newer version of the plywood that is already there painted with the Silverton redwood color stuff. One thing is that I have to build it up about 3 inches of space. This is the way it was when I got it. When the repower was done years back, they just dropped it in and built up the gap. I am trying to get it better then what it is. I also sent a note to Silverton. They say they use starboard. I am going to remount the new angle iron as in the drawing so I can eliminate that gap just by inverting the angle as long as that does not pose any problems. There is also a rubber isolator in each mount so I am questioning how much vibration a few pieces of wood can add to the isolation. Just simply looking for the most correct way do to this thing only ONCE !

PS: The photo link did not work when I tried it"
 
Paul - think the firewall bloc

Paul - think the firewall blocks photobucket at the firewall; will check tonight.

Al: I think the drawing is ok; I'd label your drawing as "invert L". You say they are currently opposite of the drawing - does that mean your stringers C-C spacing is non-standard?

You could always look up Rick's phone number on his LineSix www site adn get his inputs. I'm pretty certain he has a professional relationship to silverton.

Heard back from the Alto Tech Support guy. he deferred to a couple "marine driveline specialist". I'll email you there tele's tonight if you wanna pursue the post-mortem with their thoughts.
 
"Hey Mark....Absolutely. We w

"Hey Mark....Absolutely. We were supposed to haul today but here in this area, we have a tornado watch til noon, monsoon type rains and wind gusts to 35mph. The marina is only a short hop but we are now set up for Monday.

I am not sure about the measurement between stringers and the relationship with the engines. THAT is new to me also. I don't know what made me NOT think about it but I would think there must be a standard.

That post about the DO NOT LET SNAP UP is a classic and long running "DUH" type of thing that makes me realize that NO MATTER what I am saying , It always has different interpretations to anyone else. I would imagine my wife suffers from it the most

Paul, Those links worked for me. I have come to love that Crusader Blue color when it is so fresh and shiny"
 
"i see I had a DUH earlier...t

"i see I had a DUH earlier...the firewall blocks photobuck at work...

Last time I looked, i believe the 'standard' is 22.5" center to center on the stringers. If the angles where original and installed oriented "L", the factory could have done this all by design. The several inches to shim part is the interesting part. The crusader site has the installation drawings, if interested, but only for the newer stuff. I'm willing to be it hasn't changed in years and won't until engine technology changes.

down the coast, here, we are seeing the same weather wise...."
 
"Al,
Hope those helped. I jus


"Al,
Hope those helped. I just wish the blue would stay that nice. Oh well. Enjoy your weekend."
 
"I know that feeling Paul. Whe

"I know that feeling Paul. When my engines were freshly painted, I would make sure not even fingerprints would soil their shine. Now that they has lost the luster...oh well.

Of course, the only guy I have seen this wild has got to be EJ BREEZE's stuff. I just LOVE the way he works. One day I hope to achieve his style of gloss and shine"
 
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