235 johnson alarm

"Hi all, new to the site....gr

"Hi all, new to the site....great stuff here! I have a 1985 235 Johnson that has been bored and re-built to make 288HP now. It runs great and pulls hard but the alarm keeps going off after a few mins of use. It can happen at any rpm except idle. IF i pull back the throttle th alarm immediately shuts off but comes on again the second i throttle up. It doesn't matter how hard i accelerate or at what rpms..Any ideas? Thanks in advance. The motor is not too hot to touch with a bare hand even after a good run. I'm guessing its running at not much more than 125 degrees ever. The pee is not warm at all. Thanks again! Loni"

"I assume you mean that the al

"I assume you mean that the alarm is coming on steady and constant. This indicates either a overheating or a fuel restriction problem on a V6 engine.

(VRO Horn Warnings)
(J. Reeves)

NOTE: I retired around 1991/92. Possibly some of the later V4 engines and others may also incorporate a fuel vacuum switch that would enable a fuel restriction warning to sound as mentioned below, an unknown factor to myself.

1 - A steady constant beep = Overheating - The V/6 engines, possibly some others, have a fuel restriction warning which is also a steady constant beep.

2 - A beep every 20 or 40 seconds = oil level has dropped to 1/4 tank. (Late model engine = Every 40 seconds)

3 - A beep every other second = VRO failure, air leak in oil line, oil restriction, (anything that would result in a lack of oil being supplied to the engine).

NOTE - If the warning horn is the black plastic (overpriced) three wire type horn, the warning horn should beep once when the ignition key is turned to the ON position. If it does not, it is either faulty or someone has disconnected it (a stupid move!). At any rate, if it does not beep which indicates that the horn is non functional, find out why and do not run the engine until the problem is corrected.

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay store at:

http://stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-Johnson-Outboard-Parts-etc?refid=store"

"Yes, steady alarm... coming f

"Yes, steady alarm... coming from the throttle control box. I'm not oil injected so that gets ruled out i think. Fuel restriction huh?? the engines does cut out if left at high rpm while the alarm is on for too long..... possibility there....where would or could the restriction be most likely? Fuel pump, filter, line? All of the above i'm assuming. Are they prone to a particular spot to have a restriction? If i'm running hot, which i don't think i am, could it be a faulty sensor causing the alarm to sound? Also, i have no thermostats installed currently. Thanks thus far!!"

"If overheating was the proble

"If overheating was the problem, I suspect that the alarm would not stop as soon as you throttled back. I would try a seperate tank and hose to see if you have a fuel restriction in the one you are currently using."

"(Fuel Anti Siphon Valve&#

"(Fuel Anti Siphon Valve)
(J. Reeves)

Many of the later OMC V/6 engines incorporate a fuel restriction warning via a vacuum device attached to the powerhead. If the engine overheats, or if you have a fuel restriction, the warning is the same.... a steady constant beep.

NOTE... Only the V/6 & V/8 engines have the above "Fuel Restriction Warning". The warning horn will not sound on the other models.

The fact that a engine is not overheating, but the warning horn sounds off with a constant steady beep, and that the rpms drop drastically would indicate that the engine is starving for fuel due to a fuel restriction. Check the built in fuel tank where the rubber fuel line attaches to the tank fitting. That fitting is in all probability a "Anti Siphon" valve which is notorious for sticking in a semi closed position. It will be aluminum, about 2" long, and the insides of it will consist of a spring, a ball, and a ball seat. If this valve exists, remove it, knock out those inner components which will convert it to a straight through fitting, then re-install it. Hopefully that cures the problem.

The above procedure will cure a restriction problem with the anti siphon valve as stated. BUT, it may also allow fuel to drain backwards to the fuel tank when the engine is not running (siphoning backwards) due to the fact that the carburetors/fuel pump etc are higher than the fuel tank. This condition is not an absolute as the valves in the fuel primer bulb usually prevent this backwards siphoning problem. However.... if this does take place, the cure would be to install a new anti siphon valve.

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay store at:

http://stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-Johnson-Outboard-Parts-etc?refid=store"

Hi guys! Just came in from the

Hi guys! Just came in from the garage and had time to pull out an in-line filter and to my surprise it was completely blocked!! broke it open just to see how bad it was and i have never seen a filter so bad in my life...Replaced it with a new in-line filter and can't wait to get to the lake!! I'll post back with my results! Thanks

"If one of the typical in-line

"If one of the typical in-line aftermarket filters with paper insert, I'm not surprised. Running those with pre mixed fuel is suicide, quite often the oil itself clogs them up."

I can see that..the paper was

I can see that..the paper was very black with oil/dirt/rust/etc...what can u recommend for a good filter while running pre-mixed fuel?? Thanks for all the input!!

"In general only the 'orig

"In general only the 'original' in line plastic types with a 'screen' inside.
However if running a fixed installed fuel tank, the BRP/Sierra fuel/water separator with the screw-on filter cartridge. Even if 'paper' insert in the filter element, the filter area is at least big enough and would last at least a year."

Morten.... I wasn't aware

Morten.... I wasn't aware of the inline filter clog problem. This doesn't take place with the inline ceramic filters does it?

"Joe:
I believe those filters

"Joe:
I believe those filters have killed more engines than the VRO itself.
If not mistaken, the ceramic types, at least some of them, have in the spec: may be used with oil-mixed fuel.
Main problem with the small aftermarket types is the flow capacity. On V4 and up, 3/8 fuel lines are recommended and on V6 demanded. The average flow through capacity on the inline filters are hardly 1/4 when 50% 'blocked'.
Oil clogging like we have in the VRO tanks is a bigger problem in pre-mix, and particularly in fixed tank installations where it normally always is a small amount of water (below fuel pick-up) in the tank. Here you will have a farm of small jelly-fish swimming around, and when these hits the filter it is dooms day. The screen/mesh filters (original) mostly lets them pass by, the paper inserts not.
Ever wondered why these (paper insert) filters are not used as std by 2-stroke manufacturers?"