General corrosion question

"I am rebuilding an antique ba

"I am rebuilding an antique barge. A 1967 17' v-hull ski boat. I have been performing all the corrosion prevention tasks from Alotta paint to Zinc anodes. So far I believe that I have been doing a pretty good job.
I have a new starter and alternator. Both are bare as a new born. I know I need to prep and paint these to prevent rusty McNeptun from making my water life a bigger chore. I have gone over the starter and I am pretty sure I have that dude about 95% prepared. The big question is the alternator.
The pulley and the air inductor will have to come off to cover the forward screens for painting. The aft screens and connections will have to be covered. Then prime and paint. Sounds too easy.
I'd like to hear from ya'll that have been up this paddle less creek before.
It was a bad dream where I found out that Zinc Chromate is not a good coating for windings. I am backing off for now. I see some Meyers Dark Rum just arrived ashore.
Regards,
TxGalz Dah"

"Can some one please give me s

"Can some one please give me some instructions how to open a new tread. Since I keep being corrected, I obviously I have no clue. For give my ignorance.
Thanks"

"Capn P,
Back out of this mes

"Capn P,
Back out of this message and go to where all the messages are listed. At the top of the list there are two dark blue lines. Look in the middle of the dark blue line and you will see a banner tag that says "Start new Thread". Click on that and it should get you started.
Good Luck,
TxGalz Dah"

""It was a bad dream where

""It was a bad dream where I found out that Zinc Chromate is not a good coating for windings."

You are not painting the windings. Disassemble it to paint the hsg. Or, take it to a rebuild shop and see what they want to take it apart and you paint it or they do all the work."

"If its a "lake boat"

"If its a "lake boat" and you wanna do it once, get them powdercoated. Another option is to electroplate them.

Guy's suggestion will be easiest. If you wanna d-i-y, read on.

On the alternator, you are correct. A small impact gun is usually enough to get the pulley and the fan "free". The housing usually separates into a front and rear half. The service manuals will fill in the details.

All you need to be careful about on the inside are: 1) "heat sink" areas, 2) Ground connections, 3) the bearings."

"Guy,
Roger that. I guess la

"Guy,
Roger that. I guess late at night my humor doesn't translate to the internet very well. About 25 years ago I was prep'n an alternator and I didn't pay attention to what I was doing. I think tequilla was involvled. Any way I didn't tape every thing up correctly and started priming. Needless to say I got alot of primer for the outside on the inside. It was a bad day after that.
You and makomark have thrown some stuff out there for me to consider. The items are accessible right now and I want to get them prep'd.
If I tape everything like the screens, shafts and electrical penetrations do you thing painting the unit assebled is ok? Would it be preferred to have a shop dis-assemble, paint (diy), then have the shop re-assemble?
Thanks guys.
TxGalz Dah"

If the alternator is used then

If the alternator is used then I would probably take it to a shop and have them go over it. They'll grease the bearings and install new brushes and replace any questionable parts. I'm sure they'll do a good job for you. How about the starter?

"Guy,
Both the starter a

"Guy,
Both the starter and alt'r are new. At least they were advertised that way. From a look over I would say yes they are new by looking at the casting marks and wear ponts.
Now the good news, bad news part. My son is co-owner. A really good man, but he questioned me about how much hair was gray. Well, the starter and alt'r are painted.
I don't know right now if it's good or bad but on Labor day weekend the completely rebuilt motor is going to be started. I am so ate up with this task in the project you would think I was delivering a baby with a paper clip and dull rusty spoon. I am more excited and freaked out than the first time I got to polish a fur sink.
Hey yall, on Labor day weekend I am going to start a 1965 GM 153, I4, installed in a 1967 Mur-Tex Silver Star. Google the internet and see the thousands of Mur-Tex boats that are out there. There is going to be some antique inline 4 purring in the neighborhood!!!!!!
Really, I need to calm down and focus.
May Neptune bring calm seas to you all.
TxGalz Dah"

"sometimes, you gotta do what

"sometimes, you gotta do what you gotta do. You'll know the good/bad part, within the first hour of running it, regarding the paint job.

good luck and enjoy the margaritas!"

"If you want paint it, then do

"If you want paint it, then do it. If on the other hand you want a simple alternative... Coat with a spray on corrosion inhibitor. I can recommend one product only. "CRC SOFT SEAL". Its brown, sprays on a bit gooey, but dries to semi hard wax. Ive been using for years. it gets put on every part of my motor as I operate in salt water. I spray it into hard to get to spots as i assemble the motor. (flywheel, sump, around starter, fuel pump etc)
As for painting, this how i paint my sea going parts
1/ strip down, wash, remove sharp edges with files, grinding, sandpaper, sand blast clean and prime immediately.
2/ Prime with ALTEX MARINE ETCH PRIME, (2 or single pack)
3/ Undercoat with ALTEX MARINE EPOXY 2 PACK UNDERCOAT.
4/ Top coat with ALTEX MARINE POLYUROTHANE 2 PACK FINSH COLOUR.(epoxy is not UV resistant)
A litre of each with hardeners, thinners etc will set you back about $200. Did this to my engine and outdrive a few years back, it still looks new. ALTEX is an industrial grade marine paint manufacturer, from New Zealand. godd stuff, dries as hard as a rock."