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Results 1 to 5 of 5
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Kansas City, MO, USA

    Default "I have a 1970 115 Evinrude th

    "I have a 1970 115 Evinrude that will not fire. It has been setting for a few years, I have cleaned O/H the Carbs. and run compression tests. Fuel is good, compression is good. I am not getting any fire at the plugs. I backed up to the coil and am not getting fire from the coil. The manual says replace the coil but I am concerned the problem may be deeper. The power pack was replaced about 5 years ago. I am unsure if I should buy a coil or run additional tests? Unfortunately my Evinrude Dealer only had the Clymers. I will get the OE Manual as soon as I can, but I was hoping to get it running this weekend. Any suggestions would be appreciated."

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    middleborough, massachusetts, usa

    Default "have you tested the stator ou

    "have you tested the stator output yet,also try disconnecting the main harness from the engine,
    turn it over with a remote button/recheck spark.
    post results."

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Kansas City, MO, USA

    Default I have not tested the stator y

    I have not tested the stator yet. The Clymers manual is not clear on the procedures to do that. Can anyone point me towards directions for testing the stator? I have very limited experience with outboards. What about the points and condensor? Should I pull the flywheel and inspect the distributor cap and its components? Would be my next step with a automotive engine. If I am reading the manual correctly there is two sets of points and a condensor inside the distributor. What do you think?

    In Summary: How do I test stator? Should I pull flywheel and check distributor components.

    Thanks for the input!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2001
    Central West Florida

    Default "The stator on that model has

    "The stator on that model has nothing to do with the ignition, it is a battery charging stator only.

    Remove spark plugs, then do the following modification and test.

    (Point Setting Of Battery Capacitance Discharge)
    ( Ignition Models - 1968 thru 1972)
    (Some have points - Some do not)
    (Joe Reeves)

    The points must be set to .010 but no wider than .010..... BUT in some instances due to a possible slight inaccurately machined crankshaft lobe or a slight offset of one set of points, a setting slightly less than .010 would be required as follows.

    Whether the crankshaft has two or three lobes, when setting the points, check the setting of the points on each individual lobe by rotating the crankshaft by hand.

    You may find that setting one set of points to .010 on one lobe, then turning the crankshaft to the next lobe, the gap measures .011 or .012 (too wide). This is where you would need to close that gap down to the required .010. A gap too wide can result in a ignition miss when throttle is applied.

    Bottom line, pertaining to the point setting at the various lobe locations____ .010, .010, .009, is okay____ .010, .010, .011 is not!

    Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay store at:
    ********** *********&# 42;
    (Voltage Drop To Battery Capacitance Discharge)
    ( Pulsepack When Electric Starter Is Engaged)
    (J. Reeves)

    On the older Battery Capacitance Discharge ignition systems (1968-1972), the electric starter reaches a point, even with a top notch battery, whereas the starter will draw excess voltage/current/whatever which results in a voltage drop to the pulsepack. The cure is to purchase a diode which is capable of handling 12 volts and installing it between the starter terminal of the starter solenoid (NOT the battery cable terminal) and the wiring terminal that supplies voltage to the pulsepack.

    The diode must be installed so that the current flows from the starter terminal of the solenoid to the pulsepack... NOT vice versa. When that diode is installed in this manner, when the key is turned to the start position, the voltage that is applied to the starter is also applied directly to the pulsepack via the diode effectively eliminating the voltage drop and energizing the pulsepack with the required voltage needed for its proper operation.

    Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay store at:
    ********** *********&# 42;
    (Battery Capacitance Dischage Powerpack Test)
    Various OMC Engines - 1968 to 1972)
    (J. Reeves)

    Purchase a small 12v bulb at your local automotive parts store (the 12v bulb is to look like a flashlight bulb, not a headlight bulb). Solder two wires to that bulb, one to the side of the bulb (ground), and the other to the positive point. You might use a bulb of a somewhat lower voltage to obtain a brighter glow... just a suggestion.

    Remove the spark plugs. With the key in the on position, make sure that you have 12v going to the pack at the terminal block (purple wire). Now, connect the ground wire from the bulb to any powerhead ground. Connect the wire from the positive point of that bulb to the powerpack wire that is connected to the coil wire on the terminal board (blue wire).

    Crank the engine and observe that bulb closely (CLOSELY!). If that bulb glows even the slightest bit, the powerpack is okay. It may be a very dim glow... just so it glows! If it doesn't glow, the pack has failed.

    Keep in mind, that type powerpack (Battery Capacitance Discharge) demands a top notch battery of at least 70 amp hours. Any less will, in time, cause powerpack failure.

    Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay store at:"
    Our questions require answers. If you refuse to answer our questions, how can we answer yours?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Kansas City, MO, USA

    Default "This particular engine does n

    "This particular engine does not have points. The rotor and inside of the cap were very burned, so I replaced. Still no spark, followed your suggestions and the purple wire is hot when the key is on but the there is nothing in the blue wire when the starter is engaged. The bulb would not glow at all. I think I have determined with your guidance that it is the pulse pack. Is there any way of testing these off of the motor? I really don't have several hundred more to dump into this thing at this time ..... any suggestions?"

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