Can These E235s Make One Good One

"Now that I've found you g

"Now that I've found you good folks here and see the level of advice you give, I just may have a chance to make this work - I was at a loss…

Here's some pix of the items in question:
http://community.webshots.com/album/574176694jpeoLH?vhost=community

One E235 came on the boat, a free-to-haul Sea Ox 23 console on a trailer (which was on blocks, missing a couple wheels and a hub). The guy had left the spark plugs out and the cover off for a few months in his back yard - he said it was seized when he tried to turn it. The lower unit has a crack on the side. The trim unit worked with a fresh battery to tilt engine up. This one is Serial #: J0152018, Model E235TRLCNE

I found the model list and so:
E = Evinrude
235 = HP
TR = Trim & Tilt - Sport Styling
L = Long
CN = 1982
E = "Model Run or Suffix"

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The other E235 was on Craigslist. It seemed to start, run and idle very well 6 months ago on a boat in the seller's yard on the hose (but I don’t know much about big outboards). I did the compression and don't have the figures but they seemed good (maybe around 125?) and were within 5 psi, IIRC.

It has some sort of aftermarket bracket on it, and so I don't see a model or serial number plate on it. I had bought it and hauled it home before realizing its longer than the 1982 on the boat. DOH!!

The guy mentioned he had replaced one bad coil and said this about it in ad:
"1985 Evinrude 235 HP Outboard. Good running engine too big and heavy for boat. Carbs recently rebuilt, new plugs, thermostat, and impeller. $1000 obo."

He threw in an extra lower unit he had there and said was good, to cinch the deal.

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Questions:

- Can I use the bracket and some parts from the 1982 engine with the powerhead and most other parts from the 1985 engine to make an engine that will fit this boat???

- Some of the bolts and nuts on the bottoms of these engines are badly rusted (maybe a third gone in size). Can that be dealt with for a reasonable amount of trouble, or should I just try to sell this whole mess off for parts or whatever?

- If I'm going to fix it, what manual should I get and from where?

I have general engine and mechanical skills and general tools, but little experience with large outboards. I've done more than a dozen carbs, rebuilt lawn mowers, a couple VW engines and trannys, and a GM truck engine about 25 or 30 years ago. And of course I've changed many an impeller over the years and pulled the head off my Mariner 40 to repair it, one time.

Any observations, advice and smart remarks on this project will be much appreciated!"

Hard to advise on this one wit

Hard to advise on this one without looking at it. I wish you could post photos here at this site. OMC manuals are the best. You could e-mail me photos directly if you want to pursue this project. Let me know and I will give you my e-mail address.

"Thanks much for the reply and

"Thanks much for the reply and offer to look it over.

Being somewhat new to using web image hosting sites and posting images, please allow me to ask if you cannot see the images from the link in my post to my album on the Webshots site? I was wondering if it was visible to others.

Or is it just more convenient for you to have them on your local machine? I'll gladly accommodate whatever you prefer, and take and send as many pics as needed to get it done. Are compressed .zip files good for you, or are separate images better? My email address is on my profile (I guess its visible to all). Please advise if and when you want the 4 pix I have, and what other shots you may find useful.

I do plan to get the best manual I can buy (OMC factory service manual, as you recommend), but am unsure what engines I really have, let alone which engine to buy one for. Guessing:
- 1982 E235TRLCNE, 20", bad lower (cracked with epoxy patch on side), engine seized, on boat.
- 1985 E235TXCOR, 25", aftermarket bracket, no ID plate, year as per seller, starts, runs and idles good in yard on hose, came with extra lower with drive shaft sticking out of the top of it.

Questions: Is there more ID on the engine, maybe on the block or something? Or can an expert just tell by looking at the right pictures?"

"Hi, thanx, the photos came th

"Hi, thanx, the photos came through this time. Will study and advise. Is the extra lower unit for a 20" or 25" transom? The shaft in the original motor might be shot. Sea water, right?"

"Yeah, I'd say both are se

"Yeah, I'd say both are seawater engines.

The extra lower came with the 1985 25" engine (that runs well) but I'll have to measure it to be sure (in the morning). Can the 1982 20" shaft be used in the 1985 lower? This is assuming the 1982 20" shaft is still good - will try to find another if needed.

Until a better idea comes along, it seems the question may be shaping up to look something like this -

Can I make one 20" engine using:
- Powerhead from the 1985 25" engine
- Mounting bracket, tilt/trim, and 'leg' parts from the 1982 20" engine
- Driveshaft from the 1982 20" engine, assuming its still good
- Lower from the 1985 25" engine (lower on the 1982 20" engine seems shot)

Any obvious reasons why this cannot work? It seems to mostly depend on 1985 and 1982 engine parts being compatible.

On lower unit compatibility, sellers of used lowers have categorized them like this:

"V6, 1977-1990 $1,020 used, $1,770 remanufactured"

And like this:

"…lower unit for Evinrude and Johnson V6 outboards from 150 to 235 horsepower made prior to the mid 90's…"

But I have no idea if that is really the way to look at it.

Let me know if you need better pictures, and thanks much for your consideration here."

"Sounds like a good game plan.

"Sounds like a good game plan. Anyone else out there can advise? I'm not an expert on the big motors, but corrosion looks like the main issue here. You are sure going about this the right way......slowly and carefully. The definition of a boat is: A hole in the water that you throw money into. The bigger the boat.............."

"Interesting to se that no one

"Interesting to se that no one so far has been able to identify the 'aftermarket bracket' as a Sea Drive!
This gives that if an original Sea Drive set up the igniton system is partly different, higher alternator out put.
The bottom line is that you may swap power heads at will with the lower units, but may run into some minor application problems.
The shafts 20/25 may be swapped between the gearcases, but you need to re-shim the units when doing."

"Thanks for the input.

Corr

"Thanks for the input.

Corrosion and "minor application problems":

Regarding corrosion, is your concern more for engine function due to rotten parts, or more for difficulty to repair because of rusted bolts and nuts? Or both? Not having worked on old outboards I don’t really have a realistic understanding of the effects of corrosion, what's fixable and what's just not worth the trouble. Sure, I've twisted off rusted exhaust manifold studs, and other bolts, repairing old vehicles and whatnot, back in the day, and had to drill/tap or install helicoils, or have the machine shop fix them if getting a valve job, but just how much of this is feasible on these old outboards?

I'm doing this because I want a functional engine at a reasonable cost in both money and time, because I'm trying to make the most of what I have on hand. I have little interest in restoring antiques for fun. No doubt I'm pretty cheap, but there's 'smart cheap' and 'banging your head against the wall cheap' - it can be a fine line that can change with an unanticipated circumstance.

It would be better to get out now and just go with a newer engine if there is a strong chance that I'll get 40 or 60 hours into this and hit an unfixable problem, have a project in pieces, unsellable except for scrap. One engine runs well, now, but has the odd Sea Drive bracket (or part of one, at least). On the other hand, I'm willing to take a chance, or I wouldn’t be doing this at all.

Any discussion would be appreciated. I'm trying to learn so I can make better choices in this before the going gets thick."

"Tearing it down is cheap, and

"Tearing it down is cheap, and will give you an idea. The if you may 'collect' enough of fresh parts you may get off with a sealing kit and some piston rings, not to forget the OEM workshop manual, no-nothing else!!!!!!!
A fresh impeller/waterpump and gearcase seal kit should even be in the budget.
Tearing it/they down will give you a better idea of a budget, and strangely -selling loose parts on e-bay prices 10 times the price of 'complete' scrap! A fresh crank may pay better that the whole engine and trailer!"

"OK, I just sprung for the 198

"OK, I just sprung for the 1982 OMC Service Manual. I got the 1982 because it covers the 1982 E235, but also covers a 1982 70 HP E'rude I have mounted on a 16' 1986 bowrider boat (boat was free for the hauling, engine was $150, with controls, steering rig and good compression - that's been sitting on an old trailer in my yard for most of a year, waiting its turn).

Now, not having my manual in hand yet, I don’t know what's necessary or smart. Are you suggesting that I open up a powerhead that runs good and has good compression? Is that necessary to build a 'franken-motor' from the good powerhead and other parts, or just smart for another reason?

Also, if an engine is seized up just due to neglect or other reason not involving a thrown rod or other catastrophic failure, can it still be salvaged by checking all critical parts and honing or boring the cylinders and adding some new parts?"

"It is all up to you, how much

"It is all up to you, how much work you want to put into it, and how big chances you are willing to take.
To my experience, the biggest problem ahead of you might be to get the power heads off the exhaust housings!
When that is done, ripping apart and re-sealing/rings is a 'minor' operation.
If the 'running' unit is in good condition, then no need to seek for salvage parts from the other unit, just re-assemble and go.
After 25+ years I guess that Gel Seal and gaskets have done their duty and not much more to be expected."