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1979 chrysler 115 distributor

goingpropless

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i have a 1979 chrysler 115 hp

i have a 1979 chrysler 115 hp with a belt driven distributor. the piece that connects the distributor to the throttle is broke. its the piece thats screws down into the top of the distributor using a barrel type screw. can anyone tell me a part number on this or give me a cross referenced part number for mercury?
 
This post is 9 years old.
He only posted once and never came back??

You should start your own thread.

Is there something you need?

Try to include the year and model and serial# if requesting parts or repairs.
After 3 or is it 5??posts, you can add pics.
If you need you can use shutterfly to add photo's.
A picture is worth a thousand words.

Oh yea WELCOME!
 
Jerry,
I recognized you from my post at another site last year :)
The format here seems a little easier for me.
I have bee getting help from a guy re a retro on my motor and I will share a few details.
As of yesterday i thought my project was pooched and cash down the drain due to a bad distributor; it looks like I may have found light at the end of the tunnel --- after getting passed my ignorance...

1976 Chrysler 140 4 stroke
Optical distributor
Started it last summer and it ran for 10 minutes after years in storage. Never got it running again before SNOW.
Pulled it back home a week ago.
Thinking I fried the CD last year trying to unflood it forgetting toground plugs, I broke the piggy bank and ordered a MDS Streetfire CD per Mark Everett's
mod on YT. Still no go. A buddy helped me check coil, which turned out to be bad. Ordered a MSD coil (works).
Still no spark at plugs -- ug -- all that $.
In my ignotrance I thought the plug wires were bonded to the cap, as the rotor is, NOT SO. after removing two screws I see the wires can be changed.
I jsut did a continuity test on all 4 wires and the coil wire; only the coil wire and #1 have continuity ---why did #1 not light up when I turned it over...still I will change the wires.
These wires are braided metal not carbon core, the instructions say not to use solid metal, whether that means carbon core is a question. These worked previously so I will stay the course, unless the HOTTER CD box needs carbo-core.
Perhaps I can finally get this boat running.
I would rather be using it than working on it, especially pushing September.
Hopefully this stuff is becoming less of a mystery for me.
Dave
PS I think it was you who gave me the heads up on my driveshaft seal when I changed the water pump. TX






This post is 9 years old.
He only posted once and never came back??

You should start your own thread.

Is there something you need?

Try to include the year and model and serial# if requesting parts or repairs.
After 3 or is it 5??posts, you can add pics.
If you need you can use shutterfly to add photo's.
A picture is worth a thousand words.

Oh yea WELCOME!
 
Unfortunately I know very little about the optical sensors and the dist on the older Chrysler's.

On that other site, Nordin is the guy to talk to. iboatsdotcom
FrankA (rip) was also very good.

Try there???
 
jerryjerry05 TX
Thanks for the tip.
We MIGHT be getting around the optical situation. Mark said in his video they are very durable (fingers xd)...
Last night I put new wiring on the cap much to my ignorance that it was not possible and I cleaned up the termials. Finally got continuity thru everything.
[Even lit up a plug via MSD Streetfire CD > MSD coil> Dist #1 plug} to tired to take my igniton 101 learning curve the next mile].
See note to a couple guys who know this stuff...really BAFFLED why my dufus last test work:


"Found time tonight to try new wiring...

CAP had continuity through all 4 new plug wires and COIL wire.

I cleaned up the metal pointer that the COIL wire touches before springloaded rotor contact.
***

Finally got spark on #1 via coil to distributor, I used the same method as on coil white wire from CD ignition tracking off flywheel teeth.

THEN I asked myself and bottle bombed neighbour HOW IN THE WORLD DID I EXPECT THAT TO WORK?!

Who knows where the ROTOR was pointing?? Therefore why did #1 spark, when the dist was not turning??

I need to do it again --- NOT tonight, with my remote starter rotor turning...
***

All excited I tried to see if she would kick over...NADA. I used engine storage spray because they will kick on it but the oil wont over rev the motor, Find something to shoot gas in.
***

Will check spark on all four plugs.
***

Any tips for dufus 101...


drh"
 
DEAD in the WATER...for the moment.
Has this all been fun, learning in the process, yabut NOT really, its not just the money I have spent --- I want it to work.
My honey just said, "Bad motor eh?" Well the motor itself wasn't bad
***
Just back from a marine mechanic, it all points to a bad optical light.
Finding a points dist that would work with 4 cyl would be tough in this town (he mentioned a few old small Chr cars that might work...
ANYWAY.
I need to find out how to start a new thread and not be lost in this one.
Wish I could conact the guy who changed the infrared bulb in his (for an LED?).
The mechanic would have taken my hull for free a few years ago.
 
I looked at those Jerry TX.
A guy had a dist listed on eBay, when he tested it, turned out dead :)
Look again.
***
Of greater importance I hope you are ok with the storms.
Dave
 
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