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TOO Much Smoke

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nicknack2

Regular Contributor
"Guy I’m very frustrated, I be

"Guy I’m very frustrated, I been out to sea three time this year and had no issues with my 90-92 200 HP Johnson (as many of you might have read my posts before I don’t know what year model my motor is as the powerhead was changed before I bought the motor), but what is killing me is that when I’m trolling at about 1600 RPMs (or 7-8 miles MPHs) the motor smokes a lot, the main problem is the smell of raw half burned oil, other than that the motor runs good, I usually cruise at about 3200 RPMs at around 23 MPHs, I have tried rebuilding the carbs and all, but the smoke will not go away, at high speeds it does not smokes just at low speeds or low RPMs, I been thinking about just lowering the amount of oil in the mix for fuel to be used for trolling, probably not the right answer to my on going problem and I know I have an issue with the motor but I can’t pinpoint what the problem is, the tech says that 2 strokers smoke and I should just “live with it” as my motor starts good and runs good… any ideas recommendations???"
 
A better way of getting rid of

A better way of getting rid of the smoke would be to hook the vro back up. It was designed exactly for this purpose.
 
Your motor runs off the thermo

Your motor runs off the thermostats up to approx 1500rpms and then the bypass valves open up and cold water flows through the engine...the fuel is puddling in the transfer ports etc and a very rich mixture is being burnt.

Have you the right bypass springs
Have they had a coil cut off them or are they weak compared to a new spring??

Cheers Jamie hope this helps
 
"I have no parts at all for a

"I have no parts at all for a VRO system, how much would a full system cost me??? I don't have the oil tank, hoses and the VRO pump itself...
Jamie I don't know anything about the springs, but why would they cut them??? but would that have any effect at 100 degree weather, and the fact that the water in the Pacific is hot in the summer, my understanding is that thermostats have an important role on fuel injected motor but no in carbed ones... however I'm just a beginner when it come to outboards..."
 
No probs...your engine needs t

No probs...your engine needs to run at 143 deg F at idle and off idle if it doesnt the fuel puddles because of gravity and doesnt burn.

the motor smokes and when you boot the engine lots of smoke is emitted for a short time untill it clears itself
 
"Add a 2nd 6 gallon tank mixed

"Add a 2nd 6 gallon tank mixed 75-100:1. Use it exclusively for trolling.
Many fisherman do this, it works like charm.
You can also set them up with a switch."
 
Jamie: what do you mean by &#3

Jamie: what do you mean by "when you boot the engine"

Mike: I was thinking of that to alleviate the smoking issue but I'm trying to get an opinion as far as how safe/ healthy that is for the motor runing about 1600 RPMs???
 
"It smokes while running under

"It smokes while running under 2000 RPMs, but does not smokes more when I accelerate the smokes actually goes away if I accelerate almost immediately"
 
"Hi, Tim here. Forget about th

"Hi, Tim here. Forget about the VRO, they destroy motors. Secondly, mix your fuel at 65 to 100:1. Do not use a petroleum base oil at leaner than about 75:1. I would recomend 100:1......very carefully mixing and using AMSOIL 100% synthetic pre-mix. this is the finest synthetic 2 cycle oil available today. We have run 2 resorts in remote NW Ontario Canada since 1964. We have over 50 outboards @ 2 to 115 hp. I have never and I repeat "NEVER" had a motor failure due to oil deprivation. I run the old relics @ 50:1 on this oil and 1960's to late 1980's at 2oz per gallon (64:1). Anything newer (that is not a 4 stroke) @ 100:1. At that ratio try to mix at least 5 gallons at a time to minimize chances for error. AMSOIL is pretty forgiving if your off a bit. It is made here in Superior WI, I am personal friends with the owner and developer, Al Amatuzio and he provided us with the prototype of his !00:1 syn 2 stroke back in the 70's. We started leaning things down back then, including snowmobiles and chain saws with not one failure. Trust me on this one, I have been repairing outboards and small engines professionally for over 40 years. Oil injection is flawed and alc fuel makes matters worse. Engineers and developers have made this science too complicated to create safeguards to cover defects and overengineering. Good luck, Tim"
 
"Hey nicknack2, OMC made your

"Hey nicknack2, OMC made your engine and they would smoke if the was an air leak into the fuel line that supplied fuel to the vro...however if there was no air leaks they were a very good engine. They would emite abit of smoke when cold but once warmed up they didnt smoke too much.
The only reason your engine is smoking it is not burning all the fuel.

So carbys flooding (Idont think so)
All recurculaing valves working??
Running at operating temp?????
Like i said befor if the engine doesnt get to operating temp the fuel puddles in the crankcase and transfer ports and causes excess fuel to enter the combustion chamber.
If the recurculating valves are not working it will make the problem worse.

Now on the subject of 100:1 this is just my opinion. DONT RUN ON 100:1 stay with 50:1.

The oil lubricates everything.
It also provides a medium between the rings,pistons and bores to dissapaite heat.
Provides better sealing on the piston rings and there are dozens more examples out there."
 
"Thanks Tim and thanks Jamie,

"Thanks Tim and thanks Jamie,
Tim: are talking about 100:1 at low RPMs or 100:1 at all times????

Jamie: i can not say... I have not checked the re-circulating system and have not check the thermostats, how ever I have notice that the cooling water coming out of the pee hole when running at low RPMs is warm not hot, 143 degrees is kind hot to the touch right?"
 
"1% or 2%, a never ending stor

"1% or 2%, a never ending story.
For most people 2% is the safe mix.
Only if you use your engine DAILY and for trolling, I would recommend anyone to reduce from 2% mix.
For those using the engine perhaps only in the week-ends or even not that often, then do some speeding and tubing on top of it, stay with 2%."
 
At 1700 rpms you are totally s

At 1700 rpms you are totally safe with 75/1. You'll want a separate tank for this.
If it's still smoking too much then use the amsoil at 100/1 at 1700rpm. It will give you plenty of protection. We've set up many boats this way.
Now get crackin'!
 
"Pull the verna therm's ou

"Pull the verna therm's out and have a look, place them in water and gentaly increase the temp with a thermometer in it and see at what temp they open"
 
"I'm off tomorrow so I wil

"I'm off tomorrow so I will do some testing, starting with the thermostats and re-circulating systems, then I will try to get the boat to the lake..."
 
"Hi, I'll close my imput o

"Hi, I'll close my imput on this subject. You should run AMSOIL at 100:1 for your motor, ALL THE TIME. Not another synthetic......I would not trust another syn. I have seen first hand the chemistry and testing that is behind the Amsoil name. This is what I trust and bank on every time I motor off into the Ontario wilderness. Even in my old Ski Doo 16hp in the dead of winter at -40 with no humans for 30 miles, with the new sleds broke down. I'm almost 60 years old and bring my 80 year old Dad with me and 6 year old son. I can't tolerate engine failure, it could end in hardship. Trust me on this one. Look at what just happened to David Maybury: Check recent post "70 hp" Mr Campbell responded. I agree he was careless, thats human. To minimize our chances for failure we have to identify and follow good advice. Take care, Tim"
 
That's what he is saying N

That's what he is saying Nick. Amsoil is a really good oil. My old '66 Johnson says to use something like 26/1 mix. I use 50/1 Amsoil. Works like a Charm.
 
"Thanx Ron, I appreciate the 2

"Thanx Ron, I appreciate the 2nd, Mike D likes AMSOIL as well. My brother's machine and race engine shop is a dealer, I get it for cost besides. Go to pdqengine.com Thanx"
 
"Guys what kind of AMSOIL oil/

"Guys what kind of AMSOIL oil/product (to be specific) are we talking about here (name and stuff) I was a big fan of their products before I started boating, I just to race motocross back in the two stroke era..."
 
"CORRECTION!!! My motor speci

"CORRECTION!!! My motor specifies 50:1 NOT 26:1. Sp therefore my motor is not an example of Amsoil quality. I do know a few guys who ride dirt bikes and The Amsoil is the only oil that stands up to a leaner fuel/oil mix. I see it time and again in the shop I worked at, oh and NEVER grab the cheap oils they sell at the gas stations. They are junk. and smoke too much."
 
"Hey Nicknack...

Mind if I

"Hey Nicknack...

Mind if I jump in?
I specifically remember that you were going thru and considering re-jetting because of altitude.
You don't say anything about that. If you have re-jetted, well....anything goes now.

Also, how do the plugs look? All black and sooty?

I still think you should find a carb set from a 1996 or so 200 and put them on it so you can get those idle adjustment screws that are not on yours. Just saw a set sell on Ebay, and thought you may have bought it...guess not.

High float level can cause rich idle. Please post back what your intermediate and HS jet sizes are."
 
"not at all by all means jump

"not at all by all means jump in ...Hey Dough "long time no see u" my jets are as follow:

Idle (air bleed): 37
Mid/inter: 43
HS: 62

Dough, even at sea level the motor smoked the same....

did not gain any performance at sea level...

No re-jet... plugs look clear/black wet at all times other than when I'm running at 4000 RPMs, then they look black and dry..."
 
"Ill go down and check the 200

"Ill go down and check the 200 hp carbs that I have. The only jets I have will be the intermediate and HS. We can at least compare there. HS jets are not the problem tho.

Did you ever get it running to a good WOT? 5500 or so?

The reason I ask, is that I would almost swear that the HS jets should be 65s.

I will look and post tomorrow.
Plugs should be a tan / suede color."
 
"negative, never got it to 550

"negative, never got it to 5500RPMs, I even bought a smaller prop, I droped to a 17 from a 19(pitch that is)..."
 
"The product is AMSOIL 2 strok

"The product is AMSOIL 2 stroke 100:1 PRE-MIX.....not the 2 stroke injector AMSOIL. The injector oil is formulated differently and as a result shouldn't be used at 100:1. Most injection systems vary between 40 and 75:1. You can run PRE-MIX in your injection system but it is a waste of a better product. We run other AMSOIL racing oils in our dirt track program and get dramatic results, not so much at the dyno, but with wear and longevity issues in our engines. Running for numbers at the dyno, basicly the thinner the oil the better. As a general rule for each viscosity grade lower, you gain about .6% horsepower. So from a 50W to a 20W on a 400 hp Super Stock, for instance (500cfm 2 barrel @ 14:1 compression 355 cu in stock GM camelback heads angle milled for max compression) you will gain about 7 hp and 8 lbs of torque. Flat tappet cams allowed only. With higher end engines using roller lifters and rockers the numbers are slightly less (about .5% increase per viscosity step). Ok.....thats your lesson for today, now get some boating in, friend!"
 
"pennzoil synthetic,is an exce

"pennzoil synthetic,is an excellent choice,...i use it in my 3 outboards....when u start talking oil,everyone has valid/ points/opinions,.....use what u like,...nowdays,to certify,i think,they r all good,.....brp oil,is just higher priced.."
 
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