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Spark plug black holesdots damaged

"Steven,

Got our posts out


"Steven,

Got our posts out of order. If your plugs are still "spotted" I'd replace them.

What your situation sounds like is a plugged or out of sync carb."
 
"Yeah, I agree now as I get mo

"Yeah, I agree now as I get more educated because of your input.

Chris et al,

sometimes I would get a little shock as I was removing the rubber boot off the plug as the engine was running (while debugging my issue with the motor (spark specifically)) i was holding the boot with my bare fingers closer to the wire than to the plug itself ... Does this sound right? Are we talking an escaping spark? Should this happen at all? Or is it again 20,000 Volts thingy ?"
 
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"


Definitely posts are out of order !


Chris,

what do you mean by "plugged or out of sync carb"
Could you elaborate please? I'm really novice in this.

Thank you."
 
You should not get any shock t

You should not get any shock touching a properly put together spark plug wire. If there is a shock to you when your touching it you have electricity escaping the boot. This escaping energy can also travel to the motor cover and shock you when you touch a running motor.

Did you replace the wires and boots? If not you might want to. A good marine shop should have the BRP solid core copper wire available by the foot and the BRP boot/conductor kits ready to sell you.
 
"I don't know if your moto

"I don't know if your motor is a single, twin or tipple carb setup. I don't have a manual that goes to '70. If you have more than one carburetor it is very important that they open at the same time. Sometimes the link between then is out of adjustment.

As far as plugged well here are a bunch of small diameter orifices and jets inside them that can get crud, debris, varnish stuck in them."
 
"Wow. This was clearly discus

"Wow. This was clearly discussed at 4:00 yesterday.
And he states that he gets the shock when REMOVING the spark plug boot.

YES !!! You will get a shock when removing a plug wire from a running engine. I am very surprised that you describe it as a "little shock".
It should have knocked you on your ass.

I think you need to do as recommended, and get a spark tester, set it for 7/16" and do a complete spark test."
 
Ok.. my motor is a 3-carb setu

Ok.. my motor is a 3-carb setup. The sync linkage should be ok since it ran perfectly for some time initially after I cleaned the carbs and mounted them back to their original positions.

Orifice clugging - hmmm... but if they were clogged why would i get my spark plugs wet?

I have not replaced plug wires and boots yet - I think they are still original. But you know what? - I will debug it this way - I will tape the boot to the wire and plug for a short time just to make sure the spark is not escaping.

Suggestions?
 
"To Doug:

listen man, &#34


"To Doug:

listen man, "little" has a very relative meaning. The shock to the human body depends on a lot of factors, body mass and its resistance is among the biggest factors. Also, if I were barefoot then I agree i might have been brought down to my ass, as you expressed.

And I repeat - the spark DOES jump 1/2 inch on all 3 plugs/wires!"
 
"I am beginning to think that

"I am beginning to think that this is a trick posting.
Someone maybe pulling a fast one....

But if not, tape won't work at all.
Why? Because it is not rated to insulate 20k volts.
If there is HV leakage now, it will just cause more leakage."
 
OK good luck.

When you get


OK good luck.

When you get bit by a good hot plug when the engine is running you will know exactly what I mean.
 
"Yea. Nothing stops electricit

"Yea. Nothing stops electricity, just slows it down a bit. Tape is not going to help. If you have 39 year old spark plug wires/boots spend $20 and replace them all.

Doug, I can pull the wire off any of my plugs on my V4 and the spark will jump a pretty decent gap back to the plug on the motor while it is running. Amazing what is possible with good new parts. Just remember the "path of least resistance" rule. It is harder to jump the gap between the inside of the good boot/into my hand/thru my body and onto the ground/back onto the motor than it is to jump between the center conductor and the plug or head bolt. I'm not saying it is a good idea to yank plug wires off a running motor cause that is really not a good to do more than a few times. However they should be safe to slide off the plugs and kept to under an inch in distance from the plug."
 
"To Doug:
why are you getting


"To Doug:
why are you getting upset? why would I commit to a trick posting? Is there a way to make some $$$ by trick posting here??? If so, let me know how and I'll be in with you making some MONEY!

Chill a bit. I'm really trying to solve my problem here. I bought this boat so that I could take my daughter to go some boating and what I got out of it - a big F***! that's my "trick posting"!

Piece man! Enjoy your life!"
 
"Steve O,
Understand your pai


"Steve O,
Understand your pain. If you have holes (pits) in the ceramic, you more than likely have some sand or metal filings floating around in the cylinders. Check you fuel system for sand, etc."
 
Steven O. the dielectric greas

Steven O. the dielectric grease is supposed to be applied to the outside ceramic part and outside tip (thin coat) of the spark plug NOT the inside!!!! Its supposed to aid in removing the boot after it has been installed awhile and as a moisture barrier.

NOT on the INSIDE!!!!
 
"This is unbelievable. The BS

"This is unbelievable. The BS is flying.
I bet the seasoned marine mechanics reading this are rolling on the floor laughing.

I am outta here, I got beer to drink..."
 
"Ok this is going the wrong ro

"Ok this is going the wrong route!!!!

Once again ... for those that cannot read properly ...

The dielectric grease was applied to the external ceramic part (NOT THE ONE THAT IS INSIDE OF THE CYLINDER!!!)
Also, the holes(pits) are in the external ceramic part NOT THE ONE THAT SCREWS IN INTERNALLY!!!

To Doug: I know you don't have any more reasonable and logical contributions here so please fill yourself up with the brew (I bet you're buying the cheap one ;) - that's the only way out for ya. Enjoy."
 
"Steve first let me quote you

"Steve first let me quote you ,
I have a strong spark out of the spark wire to the motor chassis. The motor dies only when in the water and under the load. Looks like the combustion pressure "weakens" the spark.
After examining the spark plugs I found that there are tiny black holes in the ceramic insulator all around within the same circumference.
Is the spark escaping from there to the chassis when under pressure?

Please answer this and it will clerify a lot

You have an issue with your engine stalling in gear on the lake ?
You observe what you thought is the problem base on your observation correct ?
Did you test this engine on a hose ? Were you able to shift it both into reverse and forward no problem correct ? Why you ask? Could be a frozen LU
Are you using "Marine" grade plug wires ? New or old wires ?
Just wipe all cables and plugs clean at this point so we can move on.
Once again test with an external tank and YES arching will show clearly if you run the darn engine on lake at night, I did this a thousand times over on rice harvester with magneto at age 13 under the stars !
Don't buy this ? Google it you will see a whole world outside this blog..u decide .."
 
"Ok Andrew.... my answers in o

"Ok Andrew.... my answers in order:

Q:You have an issue with your engine stalling in gear on the lake ?
A: Yes.

Q:You observe what you thought is the problem base on your observation correct ?
A: Yes - about the dots on the spark plugs.

Q: Did you test this engine on a hose ? Were you able to shift it both into reverse and forward no problem correct ?
A: Yes. Yes - shifts like brand new - Forward and reverse all the way to WOT!

Q: Are you using "Marine" grade plug wires ?
A: Brand new QL77Jc4 - "prescribed" by the specs.

Q: New or old wires ?
A: Old ones. But examined them to be in a good condition. Please consider, the motor worked fine before I went to the fishing trip that was 30 minutes in duration for the whole drive to the fishing spot.

I did wipe off the wires and put new plugs.

Cannot do it at the lake at night. I do not have a regular access to the launch site - it's something that I would have to take a trip to




Q"
 
Seriously you need to replace

Seriously you need to replace those 39 year old spark plug wired with new BRP brand solid core marine spark plug wires. You have voltage leaking out of the wires. It only takes a couple thousand volts to light up the plugs but once you start running the motor other factors combine to require a lot more energy to generate the spark. Energy you are loosing. The wires are cheap and worth the time to make it right before you start chasing your tail all around ultimately to find your issue. Make everything right as you go. No sense not replacing any and everything that needs to be fixed all at one time.
 
"fellows,.. fellows,...nobody,

"fellows,.. fellows,...nobody,loves a good heated outboard discussion,more than me,i know,this may come as a surprise,..however,we r not helping this fellow...i did'nt even read all that bs,..however,i feel it,'incumbent' upon me,..ha,..to advise on the dielectric grease...
i now,......use it on every,single,engine,...on the tips of plugs only......80 % of my wk,is bay boats,....and i am 2.5 hrs away from the coast.."
 
I will replace the plug cables

I will replace the plug cables.
Just out of curiosity - what could be bad/wrong with my original cables? They look good - no cracks...
 
WOW... I just noticed another

WOW... I just noticed another problem here ....

When I use this forum at my work it uses "Steven O." as my user name but from home I'm "Alex Oris".

Weird ...
 
"You have 2 user names registe

"You have 2 user names registered:
sashko1 - Alex Oris
sashko12 - Steven O.
Depends on which you log into.
If you on one computer have saved the username and log in, that might be the reason.
Install CCleaner or similar and run a clean."
 
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