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AQ130D280 getting hot at high RPMs

safooma

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"I have been making great prog

"I have been making great progress so far--I've even been able to take it out on the lake ;-). However, I apparently still have some things to work out--the latest being that the engine is getting hot when it is up on plane for a while. It will start and idle(both hooked to a hose or in the water) and will warm up to about 150 or so.

Once I get it on plane I see the temp go 200 within a few minutes and I have seen it hit 220-230 if I leave it at high rpm for extended periods.

If I throttle back and put around(1200 rpm) it will cool back down to 175 or so.

A couple of things i have noticed:

--When on plane and running hot, if I turn hard and hold the turn, the temp will drop to around 200. It goes back up when i straighten back out.

--If I run without the doghouse it runs about 10 degrees cooler.

--When I feel the water lines and manifold, both appear to be cool--even at high rpm.

--If I take the cap off the garden hose inlet while underway, no water pours out.

Any thoughts? What should I check first?

Thanks!"
 
I should also mention that it

I should also mention that it seems to run fine and does not appear to be overheating--no pinging or power loss or hot smells at all. I'm used to closed cooling systems though--not sure how to tell if a open system is overheating.
 
"James,
I also have that moto


"James,
I also have that motor and outdrive combination. I found that I had a small split in the suction hose that is mounted on the outdrive. Also check the connector for corrosion and to see if it looks flattened. There's also a chance that the water pickup tube o-ring between the lower and intermediate housings is worn. When you get up on the plane, that may start sucking air instead of water. Check all of your suction side water connections and hoses for leaks especially that seawater strainer - it's a royal pain to get seated right.

I'd be careful about continuous hard turns at full speed. It may be pretty hard on the u-joints. Not sure about all the other questions but it depends where you put the hose connection if it'll be under negative or posative pressure. If it's before the pump, it'll be under negative so water would't come out with the cap off.

Mine runs around 180 degrees tops when running at 5100 rpm for an extended period.

Glad to see you've made progress and didn't give up."
 
"Thanks Salty.

The hose con


"Thanks Salty.

The hose connection is before the pump, so I guess what I am seeing is normal.

I looked on volvos site and i do not see any of the hoses you mentioned....I looked at both the outdrive(all 4 parts) and the engine cooling system, but could not find them. Do they have to be volvo parts or are they just regular hoses?

I think that I am also going to pull the oil cooler and see if any of the rods are plugged up-- I hear that is fairly common with these engines."
 
"[url=""]http://www.marinepart

"http://www.marinepartsexpress.com/vp_sch_fs.html
Part number 58 in the diagram above is the hose I was talking about. The connector is number 85. Check those first. The next hose to check is number 94 on the diagram and is from the transom shield to the suction side of the seawater strainer. You can test for leaks by hooking up the garden hose to your "t" connection, plugging up the drain hole in the bottom of the outdrive and then put the muffs on over the suction slots and turn on the water. You'll neeed to keep adjusting the muffs to block off the water flow but that will help you see any leaks in the suction hoses, fittings, and the hose connector gasket.

Those are the easier leaks to see. Harder to see is a possible leaky o-ring between the lower and intermediate sections of the outdrive. http://www.marinepartsexpress.com/vp_sch_fs.html That's number 24 in the diagram of the intermediate section. When on the plane, that's the most likely cause of an air leak but check all the others as well. A minor air leak will have large ramifications when the engine is operating at WOT.

Let us know what you find. I had the same problems myself so can give you a few hints when changing the water connection, hose, and lower end/intermediate section o-rings.

Edit: just noticed that the links didn't go all the way to the diagrams I was refering to. You should be able to navigate to the connecting components and intermediate section for the 280 outdrive and AQ130 engine drawings.
"
 
"Which part of the aq130 schem

"Which part of the aq130 schematics? Cooling system? For example, I cannot find any listing for 85 or 94 in either the cooling system or the intermediate outdrive schematics.

I assumed you were talking about #28 here:
http://www.marinepartsexpress.com/VP_Schematics/GAS/AQ115_BB115_MB20_AQ130_AQ165 _BB165_AQ170_BB170_AQD21A_MD21A/OUTBOARD%20DRIVE%20UNIT/INTERMEDIATE%20HOUSING%2 0AQ%20DRIVE%20U1.pdf

btw, once you have found the right schematic, go back one page and then right click on the link that you had just clicked earlier and choose copy url. That will give you the right link.

Right now I am looking for parts 85 and 94.

Thanks again"
 
"Thanks for the tip.
[url=""]


"Thanks for the tip.
http://www.marinepartsexpress.com/VP_Schematics/GAS/AQ115_BB115_MB20_AQ130_AQ165 _BB165_AQ170_BB170_AQD21A_MD21A/CONNECTING%20COMPONENTS%20FOR%20TRANSMISSION/CON NECTING%20COMPONENTS%20AQ%20DRIVE%209.pdf

Here's the connecting components picture. The connection and hose are both shown in this picture but you were right about the connector. 53 and 85 are the part numbers.

Here's the intermediate section. The o-ring is number 23.
http://www.marinepartsexpress.com/VP_Schematics/GAS/AQ115_BB115_MB20_AQ130_AQ165 _BB165_AQ170_BB170_AQD21A_MD21A/OUTBOARD%20DRIVE%20UNIT/INTERMEDIATE%20HOUSING%2 0AQ%20DRIVE%20U4.pdf

Yes - the connector and gasket are shown in this drawing as well but was trying to show the hose as well.

Now - back to the o-ring. That o-ring is on the slanted portion of the lower unit. The lower unit pivots on the intermediate section on that o-ring. It's also the water transport tube up to the connector and hose."
 
Keep in mind that we're wo

Keep in mind that we're working on a process of elimination. We're trying to inspect and test water delivery components before tearing anything apart. That lower o-ring is immediately suspect when you mention cooling problems when on the plane because that o-ring may be out of the water and able to suck air if defective. A pressure test like what I'm talking about tests all of the water delivery areas so you can identify problems in that area.
 
"Thanks again Salty. I am gon

"Thanks again Salty. I am gonna start testing tonight after work--I'll let you know what i find.

One more thing...I noticed that for some of the parts in the outdrive, the schematic lists the part as See group 4a or 4c. Not sure what that means.

Thanks!"
 
"When pressurizing with the ho

"When pressurizing with the hose, it's much easier to get things done with someone to help out with another set of hands and eyes. Getting the muffs to somewhat seal on the inlet slits to block off the water can be a trick. You probably won't be able to completely stop the flow but should be able to back it up enough to where you can see leaks at the lower/intermediate section water tube o-ring and at the hose to the transom shield. That will be at the front on the forward slanted piece. Also look closely at the hose connector and gasket.

As far as the "group" numbers on the notes section of the schematics that appears to be a reference to a related section. For example, if you look at the upper left corner of the schematic for the intermediate section, it's labeled as 4C. The hose connector (#27) says "see group 4A" in the notes section. 4A happens to be the connecting components schematic and also shows the hose connection and it's relationship to the transom shield and the hose. At least that's my guess. If I was feeling macho, I'd say "that's my sstory and I'm sstickin to it"
smile.gif
."
 
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