AQ260A FWC kits New or used

[jims78searay]

"I've been looking for a used AQ260A For my 2560 bayliner to no avail so Im now thinking of putting a rebuilt GM 5.7 truck eng with a FWC system. Any suggestions? I brought the boat without the motor,the outdrive is intact and I have the volvo/penta exhaust manifolds."

[sandkicker]

"By the time you get all the widgets to make the truck engine "marine"... including a new cam, you may as well just buy a rebuilt marine engine.
The carb, fuel pump, distributor/ignition system, and starter must all be marine.

Also you will become rather intimately acquainted with the boat's electrical system when you try to wire up the truck engine."

[RicardoMarine]

"You've got a 25 footer!
This engine will be working a little harder than if in a 20 footer!
The truck engine will be using the dreaded "dished" pistons and small chamber heads!
Detonation is one of the marine gasoline engine's worst enemies.... especially in a 25 footer!
Detonation and dished pistons in a marine engine like each other! Oh yeah.... they like each other!

IMO, Best to buy or build one using a Quench Effect style pistons and the appropriate cylinder heads that will offer the correct combustion chambers and C/R for marine use.
If you go with the closed cooling system, you DO NOT necessarily need the Marine head gasket set nor the Marine engine "Circ" Pump.... high grade automotive will do just as well!

The rest is a no brainer! All MARINE!

."

[jims78searay]

"Thanks Ricardo! Im going to tear this Gm motor apart and Change the cams and whatever else to make it marine. Its going to be a FWC system for cooling. I gotta find out where to find a bell housing,eng coupling, and nic knacks to make this a almost true marine eng."

[RicardoMarine]

I've got a new Flywheel Cover and drive coupler if you can't find them used.

.

[jims78searay]

"Ricardo, thanks! i could use that flywheel cover. Let me know what you want for it. Thanks again!Jim H."

[jims78searay]

"Ricardo,Yes I could use the drive coupler and flywheel cover since I cant find them anywhere in my area, Thanks !"

[jims78searay]

"Yaaaay I finally found a AQ260A for my Bayliner! I decided to scrap the conversion of that other GM350 auto eng(gotta sell it now)This eng Im getting is out of an '88 bayliner.I have an '86. This eng was started and ran for 4 mins with the raw water impeller out so it did burn out. The eng is red,alittle cleaning is needed and it has a piece chipped off the tail end of the Flywheel cover which I was told to be OK since the Eng coupler assembly is the most Important thing to worry about as it has a rubber dounut-like boot to seal the flywheel cover and transom.Im looking to find the bolts that go thru this assembly and the Rubber stop that the outdrive rests on when in the full up position.Do I have to clean out the insides of the exhaust manifolds? I noticed some light flaking of rust coming off the water port of the manifolds, Any Suggestions??? Im new to the Volvo/Penta units. Should I add on a FWC kit to it or just run fresh water thru the eng after runnin in saltwater? Im new to Volvo/Penta, need your Help, any suggestions would be Greatly Appreciated! Thanks... ~Jim~"

[RicardoMarine]

"Jim, as mentioned to you earlier, I have many of these parts.... or will have access to them (if interested).

As for the Closed Cooling system...... if you add this to a previously raw water cooled engine, you may have rust scale issues with the tube bundle of the Heat Exchanger. There is no access to the E/G side of the tube bundle on these Heat Exchangers!
A screen system on the coolant return side would need to be incorporated!

As for the exhaust mans..... what you will want clean is the raw water passages up to and through the risers and out..... and including the "scalloped" areas where the water is dumped into the Y pipe.

For absolutely certain, you should replace the Primary Drive Shaft Bearings in this new-to-you flywheel cover. These are easy to do, inexpensive to buy, and you'll never know what problems these can cause when they fail.
Please do yourself the good deed of replacing these!
Cost for parts will be under $40 if you have a good bearing supplier in your area."