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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Columbia, MO, USA

    Default "Been working too long in the

    "Been working too long in the heat, did something a little dumb. Was leaking unit oil from the seal behind the u-joint, and took the unit off when I really didn't need to. Got that fixed, but when all was said and done I never got the exhaust boot banded to the unit. It is in place at the transom. Sounds a little funny but seems to run and cool just fine. This is a 32 ft. steel boat, and I tried to band it up from a sandbar, and couldn't seem to get my hands in there, probably have to pull this pig out to fix.

    My question, is this doing any harm? The boot is in place and kind of pointing at the port in the unit.......... The exhaust still leaves the boat, not in the hold......

    Thanks in advance. Steve Mellis"

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Island Heights, NJ,

    Default You need to have the drive til

    You need to have the drive tilted up... and it's still fun. I would not worry about it not being attached at the drive end.
    Capt Bob
    1969 23ft ChrisCraft Lancer
    Merc 5.7L 260HP/ Volvo 280
    1972 22ft Bristol
    Honda 7.5HP 4 stroke Long shaft

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Columbia, MO, USA

    Default "Robert, thanks. Just sounds a

    "Robert, thanks. Just sounds a little throatier.

    Run in the Missouri River, heading down their now. As Mark Twain said.... the boys go up the Mississippi, and the men go up the Big Muddy."

  4. #4
    justanoldboat's Avatar
    justanoldboat Guest

    Default I found that a couple pieces o

    I found that a couple pieces of heavy wire help in getting the exhaust boot back on. Use 2 pieces of heavy wire and make hoops with a tail on each of them around the boot. That will allow you to pull evenly from both sides to pull the boot onto the outdrive connection. The tip came from Ricardo and worked great for me.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Columbia, MO, USA

    Default justan... thanks. Sounds like

    justan... thanks. Sounds like that might work. And thanks to all on this forum who have taught me so much.......


  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Portsmouth England, Hampshire, England

    Default "My name is Peter, I have just

    "My name is Peter, I have just agreed to help a colleague who is experiencing cooling issues with a Volvo Penta AQ131a engine. The heat exchanger housing was heavilly clogged with salt deposits when viewed from the filler cap. When I stripped the heat exchanger it was found to be clogged with white silicone sealant/radweld thus reducing the heat transfer. This was all cleaned up and replaced with new seals/O rings etc iaw the manufacturer’s handbook and genuine parts acquired from a Volvo Penta dealer, including a new thermostat. All the O rings and rubber joints had previously been helped to a generous dose of sealant which leads me to think this engine is a ‘historic leaker’. The interface between the fresh and sea water systems inside the heat exchanger are a cause for concern as salt deposits were found inside the heat exchanger housing but nowhere else?

    I have since rebuilt the engine and put fresh water into the heat exchanger housing to refill the engine galleries etc and was shocked to observe my hard fought effort was running out of the external drive unit all over the floor (the boat remains out of the water with a dry salt water system) from a black expanding hose under the tilt mechanism, I believe this to be the exhaust outlet. Here is where I come unstuck, how can water from a sealed fresh water cooling system leak out of the back of the boat so fast, the engine could have barely been filled before I heard water running out?

    Could it be a: the heat exchanger integrity is compromised allowing water into the exchanger and then following its normal path down the exhaust, or b: the rubber seal inside the heat exchanger housing which attaches to a plastic connection pipe and into pipework to the exhaust? or c: a cracked cylinder head? My intention is to remove the housing outlet pipe into the exhaust and then re-fill the fresh water housing. If the heat exchanger is leaking then i should sea water coming from the plastic connector behind the housing as it flows through the exchanger and down the exhaust. If the Housing remains full then do i question the cylinder head?

    I really don’t know?

    Has anyone experienced similar issues with this engine, can you please help ??
    Kind regards

    <font face=""verdana&#44;arial&#44;helvetica""></font>}}"

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