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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2005

    Default " I just finished rebuilding m

    " I just finished rebuilding my 115 1981 V4 johnson outboard because it needed bored and 2 of the pistons replaced. Well with the help of all you on the forums, I got it toghather and running, thanks to those who helped me! (thanks Joe) =)

    The thing is i need to set the timing on it and i dont understand how. I know there is a bent bolt like thing that is connected to the carb linkage stuff, it can only be adjusted by pulling the cotter pin and turning it. But there is also a screw that does something thats connected to that linkage stuff, i think it might be idle of some sort, its bumps into the block to stop it.

    anyways my questions are, what is the rmp my motor should be at when idling? the book says my motor should be at 28 degrees on the flywheel, im not sure when its supposed to be at 28 degrees, ideling or wot? also should i retard this a few degrees since its a 1981 motor and the gas back then was different? Is there a good link on how to time an outboard? or can anyone give me steps to make sure i dont ruin this new motor heh.
    Also does turning the bent bolt for timing in retard or advance timing?

    And the screw that runs into the block, the one for idle, does that raise or lower idle if you screw it in?

    Thanks alot, i cant wait to get it broke in and to play with it!
    Dave "

  2. #2

    Default Timing does not change on the

    Timing does not change on these motors . The 28 degrees is at WOT . Unless some one changed it the adjustment should still be correct.Did you line up the connecting rod caps before you torqued the screws????

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2005

    Default Yeah you mean take a pick and

    Yeah you mean take a pick and make sure it doesnt get caught on the lip of them?

    if not then im not sure what you mean by line them up?


  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2001
    Central West Florida

    Default "Dave..... The timing can be c

    "Dave..... The timing can be changed of course by loosening the lock nut on the timing advance screw and moving that screw (The one with the rubber cap) one way or the other. In case you're unaware of the screw I'm speaking of, look under the flywheel at the timer base. At full spark advance the timer base will rotate solidly up against that rubber cap.

    The 28° setting would hold true with the engine running at full throttle, full spark advance. However, with the engine not running, if one is to set the timing at cranking speed, the setting is another matter as follows.

    Remove the s/plugs. Rig a spark checker of some kind so that number 1 cylinder will have a 7/16" gap to jump. Hook your timing light to that number 1 cylinder. Have the engine in gear, at full throttle, and make sure that the timer base is solid up against that spark advance screw with the rubber cap. Crank the engine and set the spark advance at 24° which is 4° less than what is called for (28°). Due to the nature of the solid state ignition components, the engine when running at full throttle, the actual timing will differ by the 4° mentioned.

    If you set the timing at the actual 28° at cranking speed, when running at full throttle it will increase to 32° which will result in pre-ignition, piston damage, etc (don't want that!)

    The idle adjustment screw..... back it out away from the surface, then adjust your idle with the throttle cable trunion (that portion that clamps in). When the idle is where you want it, screw in that idle stop screw until it touches the surface.
    On a flushette, that engine, if a 20" shaft should idle at 1000rpm. If it's a 25" shaft, set the idle at 1200.

    The "Bent bolt like thing" as you described it, is the linkage that is used to synchronize the timing with the carburetors. Hopefully you didn't move it, or if you did, you remember where it was on that threaded rod. The cam that attaches to that linkage (the one that leans up against the carburetor roller) has a scribe mark on it. That scribe mark should line up with the center of the carb roller when the carb throttle butterflys are just about to open.

    I strongly suggest that you check on this site with Andrew and obtain a service manual as there are a lot of little things (too many to list) you might need to know.

    Oh, the con/rod cap thing.... each connecting rod has its own cap, they can not be interchanged, and they only go on one way. The con/rod is forged as one piece, then the cap is actually broken off, making that particular cap and rod assy different than any other cap in the world. It can not be used with any other rod assy, nor can it be installed opposite of the way it was removed.

    Hope this helps you somewhat.

    We occasionally have questions. If you fail to answer, it may affect ours.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2005

    Default yeah that does help me alot!!

    yeah that does help me alot!!

    and yes i marked all the caps to all the rods with a punch before i took them apart so i made sure i could put them back exactly the right direction and back with the right rod.

  6. #6
    Bill Thomas's Avatar
    Bill Thomas Guest

    Default I have a 1950/51 5hp. Johnson

    I have a 1950/51 5hp. Johnson Sea Horse that is in great shape except for the paint and decals.

    Anywhere that paint and decals can be obtained.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2000
    Forest Dale, VT, USA

    Default "Bill, Here is a link to a


    Here is a link to a few companies in our directory that sell decals. Probably some of the other companies that sell vintage outboard parts also sell decals.


    PS: Bill, you really should have started this as a "new conversation" from the link at the bottom of the Outboard category page..."
    Andrew Menkart

    "There is no situation in which knowledge is more truly power than at sea."
    - Lord Brassey

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