"Dave..... The timing can be c
"Dave..... The timing can be changed of course by loosening the lock nut on the timing advance screw and moving that screw (The one with the rubber cap) one way or the other. In case you're unaware of the screw I'm speaking of, look under the flywheel at the timer base. At full spark advance the timer base will rotate solidly up against that rubber cap.
The 28° setting would hold true with the engine running at full throttle, full spark advance. However, with the engine not running, if one is to set the timing at cranking speed, the setting is another matter as follows.
Remove the s/plugs. Rig a spark checker of some kind so that number 1 cylinder will have a 7/16" gap to jump. Hook your timing light to that number 1 cylinder. Have the engine in gear, at full throttle, and make sure that the timer base is solid up against that spark advance screw with the rubber cap. Crank the engine and set the spark advance at 24° which is 4° less than what is called for (28°). Due to the nature of the solid state ignition components, the engine when running at full throttle, the actual timing will differ by the 4° mentioned.
If you set the timing at the actual 28° at cranking speed, when running at full throttle it will increase to 32° which will result in pre-ignition, piston damage, etc (don't want that!)
The idle adjustment screw..... back it out away from the surface, then adjust your idle with the throttle cable trunion (that portion that clamps in). When the idle is where you want it, screw in that idle stop screw until it touches the surface.
On a flushette, that engine, if a 20" shaft should idle at 1000rpm. If it's a 25" shaft, set the idle at 1200.
The "Bent bolt like thing" as you described it, is the linkage that is used to synchronize the timing with the carburetors. Hopefully you didn't move it, or if you did, you remember where it was on that threaded rod. The cam that attaches to that linkage (the one that leans up against the carburetor roller) has a scribe mark on it. That scribe mark should line up with the center of the carb roller when the carb throttle butterflys are just about to open.
I strongly suggest that you check on this site with Andrew and obtain a service manual as there are a lot of little things (too many to list) you might need to know.
Oh, the con/rod cap thing.... each connecting rod has its own cap, they can not be interchanged, and they only go on one way. The con/rod is forged as one piece, then the cap is actually broken off, making that particular cap and rod assy different than any other cap in the world. It can not be used with any other rod assy, nor can it be installed opposite of the way it was removed.
Hope this helps you somewhat.
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