Using rectreg instead of seperate ones

"All right all you experts out

"All right all you experts out there..lol

I have been trying to figure out the consequenses of doing this and frankly I can't come up with any.

I have a 1983 E175TRXCTE that has a seperate rectifier/lead assy and voltage reg. assy.
According to what I can find, this has a 9amp charging system.
The exact electrical diagram is NOT in any book I have seen, but luckily one of the instructors in school dug one up from some other service manual publisher (can't rem the name either) but it is the only identical one I have seen. I have a book from school covering 88 -110, 150 and 175 Erude/Johnson but it's for later years around 1989>.

Anyway, a rect/reg combination has the identical wiring as does my seperate units, so why would it not work? Even looking at the book I have (which shows the rect/reg assy for the later years, is still connected to the same places.
I have a brand new mercury reg/rect that was on my Force engine when it died, and would like to know if I could use it? It was for a Mercury red stator (16amp) that my other engine had. So at least I know it wouldn't be overloaded but underloaded if anything.

Any takers on this one..lol"

"Sure...would work fine. Good

"Sure...would work fine. Good idea to save money too, if that is a main goal.
You say the Merc is 16 amp capacity, the Evinrude stator will only put out 9 amps, so the Merc reg/rect will be OK.
Just connect the two yellows from the 'Rude stator to the two AC input leads on the Merc unit, and hook up the red output lead to the starter solenoid terminal. It will then charge your battery at a MAX of 9 amps. You will have to deal with the tach lead...I don't know about the Merc tach output from the Merc reg/rect. Provide proper cooling and a mounting bracket...and voila!
(WALLLLAHHH to the rednecks out there.)

There is nothing magical about this stator/reg/rect system. It is very simple.
You can then just leave the original water cooled unit in place and let the wires float."

"Cool, thanks Doug..I didn&#39

"Cool, thanks Doug..I didn't think it would be a problem..Saving $$ is a goal as well, but yesterday I noticed some A.C. voltage going to the battery so it appears the rectifier is going. Was gonna check it today but it rained all afternoon.

Funny thing is, on my engine neither of these components are cooled, and are on opposite sides of the powerhead.

Neither was my old Force engine, it was just bolted to the side of the powerhead.."

"Ah yes, re-reading I see that

"Ah yes, re-reading I see that you would not have the water cooled reg/rect.
You can usually substitute an electrical part into a circuit that has a greater amperage capacity. Like using a 16 amp diode in place of a 9 amp diode. Will work fine.
Actually, doing that would make it more reliable.
You could NOT for instance, put a 35 amp stator with a 9 amp reg/rect....
One variable we don't know...the stator output voltage on the Evinrude (I am guessing here) should be around 25-30 V AC. We are making the assumption that the Merc stator is close to the same. I would bet that it is, because after all, we are just charging a 12V battery here...
no need to design a circuit with an input of 40, 50, 60 volts to do that job.
But if the Merc stator outputs 12V AC for example, and the diodes in the Merc reg/rect are rated for 20V AC max, and we feed it 25-30V from an Evinrude stator....well something could fry.
Can you measure the AC output voltage from both the Merc stator and the Evinrude stator and see if they are fairly close to each other? Would have to be done on both running engines...
That would for sure help us know if this will work.
Anyway, I bet it works just fine."

Greg..you will read some ac on

Greg..you will read some ac on the charge circuit to a battery....that ac is not filtered down to a pure dc....in fact you are charging off the peaks...Carl

"Doug, I can't test my old

"Doug, I can't test my old Force engine as it is in parts..

Carl, yes you are correct. There should be small amounts of a.c. when checking across the battery. Large amounts of a.c. indicate your rect is failing.
On a side note, when I checked this the otherday my meter had a low battery, hence my readings were all screwed up..lol I had 33 vac going to the battery...yikes...also checked 120 vac in the house and meter was reading 140vac...changed battery and now the old meter reads correctly.

On another side note, my starter died last night...haha what luck for me..
The BOAT syndrome is catching up with me "Break out another thousand"..."

"Well good new, I scratched th

"Well good new, I scratched the bad starter...yay

I chased this problem around since last night and just fixed it about an hour ago..

Turns out that one of my boat gnd leads to the battery wasn't grounding properly..I found it by accident also..

Last night the starter stopped working, no solenoid..nothing.. As I was omw out the door this morning to get a new starter, I figured I would test it again, and sure enough the starter was fine..I just connected it with jumper cables directly to the battery and it worked fine

Now to the solenoid,,,I tried a diff one, nada, still not getting to starter..
I disconnected my deep cycle battery and the boat ground wires where they were connected to the starting battery.. When I went to put the boat gnd wire back on I noticed it spark a little when I touched the battery gnd. The ground wire was showing 7+ vdc with the key switch off..

Could not find anything grounded so I just cut the connector off and put a new one on...

PROBLEM SOLVED...wow what a day"