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6 cylinder Volvo AQ170

robj

Regular Contributor
"My neighbour has an old 6 cyl

"My neighbour has an old 6 cylinder Volvo that he wants to get rid of. It is complete with 3 carbs, manifolds. The engine is seized from sitting outside. Are these engines any good? Would it be worth upgrading my 2.3 l with this 6 cylinder?

Thanx for your input.

Have a great day

Rob."
 
"Robj, we have discussed this

"Robj, we have discussed this a few times. Avoid those engines like if they had the swine flu!! Do a search in the forum and you will find out why...."
 
' Avoid those engines like

' Avoid those engines like if they had the swine flu!!'

Made me remember the old Swedish nick-name for that engine: Gjutjarnsgalten! Translated: The cast iron pig!!!
 
"Thanks for the input. I will

"Thanks for the input. I will avoid the cast iron pig with the swine flu!!
lol.gif
I did some searching last night and concluded the same thing. Better to stick with my little 4 banger. May try and part it out.

Have a great day

Rob."
 
"That engine went out of produ

"That engine went out of production decades ago, and major engine part are not available any more."
 
"I had one in a Glastron and l

"I had one in a Glastron and loved it. Had power to keep up with the v-8 till the top end and they were real frugal on fuel.

Drawbacks were the 3 carbs and getting those clamps to hold on the throttle linkage. Then there was the "run hot" issues which I finally gave up on trying to solve and just ran it with the back of the cylinder head running out of spec, but it never failed. They had the same engine as an early volvo six fuel injected auto. The marine engine I had was cast with the injector pads in the heads but not drilled.

But if you have a running boat, I wouldn't go to an out of production siezed engine from my neighbor just for more horse power.

And I haven't even read the old post about what a POS these might have become over the years."
 
I need help!!!
my 1974 volvo


I need help!!!
my 1974 volvo AQ170 inline 6 cylinder will start only when you prime it then it just runs the prime out and dies.
I have plenty of gas going to all three carbs from the pump.
CAN ANYONE PLEASE GIVE ME SOME REASON FOR THIS.I have done everything I can think of except pull out my hair.
Jim}}
 
"Any amount of water that hit

"Any amount of water that hit that set of carbs went right to the di-cast and got real white and fuzzy. If you carefully take the three carb off and lay them on the bench-take the tops off, you will see a pile of rust and the accelerator check ball and the main jet just covered. They did seem to come apart OK, and you could clean the jets and emulsion tubes out with jet gauges and carb spray. The bottom of the carb will need some real cleaning. Open every galley plug and clean with tiny brushes. Put it all back together and set up so they all open at the same time. (I know the book says otherwise). Get the butterflies completely closed and just touching their stops. set all idle needle to one turn. Now tighten up the link clamps and briskly snap them a few times and re check. (They love to slip.) Now get it going.

Adjust the main throttle stop to keep going and the idle mixtures till it wants to run. Get a long piece of small fuel line and stick one end in your ear and the other in a carb. Adjust mixture till they all sound the same. NOw here is the exciting part. Snap the throttle and see if a huge fire ball blows out of one or all of the carbs. If all- good all you have to do is get the mixture a little richer, then advance the timing just a bit -the fire ball should get down to just a little pop. Put it all together and take to the lake for a real test."
 
Score the exhaust manifold....

Score the exhaust manifold..... and if good... put it on e-Bay. It may surprise you what it will/can bring.
 
I have a AQ 170.Circ pump good

I have a AQ 170.Circ pump good as well raw pump. Want to know if anyone knows about the water distribution tube inside the head.Seem's mine has corroded through and broke.With this being the case.Water dose not seem to be circulating completely through the head.Could this be the reason why it's overheating.
 
"Jt:
You should have started


"Jt:
You should have started a new thread, but here a short answer that might help. If thermostat is not working properly or running without thermostat, that engine will overheat due to disruption of circulation in the head!"
 
"It sounds like very few like

"It sounds like very few like the AQ170. I have one and it is still running. Well, sometimes. Anyway, what other engines will mount up to the 280 outdrive without major modification. Do any engines mount to the same adaptor as the aq170 or do I have to find one of those also. I am thinking of changing it out and am wondering what my options are. Any ideas?"
 
"Joshua, Best to start a new t

"Joshua, Best to start a new thread for your topic... but since we are here;

I believe that any of the OHC 4's will bolt to the AQ 170 Flywheel Cover. (not sure if all 170's used the B/W drive coupler splines)
The exhaust "down tube" will need to work with the OHC 4 exhaust and rubber coupler.
Lower unit ratio will go from the 1.89:1 to a 2.15:1

A 5.0L, 5.7L V-8 or a 4.3L V6 can be used with the single relief AQ 200 B "Y" pipe (some adaptation/mods required.... easy ones).
Again, your 1.89:1 will now need to change! 1.61:1 for the V-8............... and the 1.89:1 may work for a 4.3L.... you'd need to research this, but it may work. (On a smaller hull, you'll typically see the 1.61: w/ the 4.3L)


If you get into a project like this, definitely start a new thread.
There are lots and lots of ways to make swapping engines work so long as the hull can handle an increase in power."
 
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