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1990 Force 120 outboard drive bearings rebuild kit needed

bulldog77

New member
"I have been searching for a n

"I have been searching for a new impeller housing and bearing kit for the drive. After taking it apart I found the problem, The bearings in the shaft are worn and there is generous play. This caused the metal sleeve that houses the impeller to break free and become ovaled at the top of the housing. I need a lower end rebuild kit and housing for the impeller. If anyone knows where to find one, please let me know."
 
"That single piece lower unit

"That single piece lower unit had a bearing pre-load crush sleeve to support the top pinion bearing and set the pre load- unfortunately they were a use once part and you needed a new one with each re-assembly. They were right under the water pump.

To rebuild that lower you needed a pinion height gauge. (looked like a round door stop.) I never did find a way around putting one together with out it. Maybe somebody has the dimension off the bottom of the case. If I found that situation, I would check the oil for metal and just put the pump back together correctly. The crush sleeve can not be reused.- If you have the tools for measuring, you might be able to shim a solid ring into that position."
 
I made a tool from a old pipe

I made a tool from a old pipe with an angle grinder to remove the tapered pinion bearing nut. I did see that there were spacers setting the hieght of the tapered roller bearing. I removed them and put it back together to see if it removed the play in the vertical drive shaft. It did not remove enough. So where can I find a new pre-load pinion bearing? I have search many web sites and have yet to find a dealer for that part and the impeller housing sleeve.
 
"Taking it apart was not the i

"Taking it apart was not the issue, and if the tapered bearing is shiny, you don't need one. Put the shims back in as they set the pinion height not the "wiggly shaft" problem. The drive firms right up when the top bearing is pushed against its race. This is done by the water pump base and the now unobtainable crush sleeve.. So-- the only part you need to fabricate is something to take the place of the top crush seal. As only you can see the bearing, and the pinion (thats the part that gets damaged when the pre load is loose.) You must decide how much of it was damaged by the failure of the crush sleeve. The crush sleeve can collapse when you hit an under water obstruction.

I would put it all back together and measure how much play there is up and down in the drive shaft. Then take that top tapered bearing cup to a machine shop and have a ring cut to push the cup into the cone that same amount. Next go to the bearing shop and get some 1's and 2's shims for that bearing cup and start loading up the bearing till it is some what tight. I'm sure there is a rolling torque spec for it some where. Now put the water pump back together and see if the drive isn't tight and happy. You can not tell if it is right when it is apart, you have to put it all together to get a reading on the driveshaft."
 
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