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350 wont turn over much

J

jimmy_blair

New member
"My first post.. i juat found

"My first post.. i juat found this forum, and it looks to be a great help! im looking forward to it!

Ok, here is my problem..

I have a 95 bayliner, 350 gm/mercruiser. The starter has always given me problems, so last year i got a new mariene one from here at mariene max in cumming ga. Well, now its just clicking most of the time, like it dosent have enough juice to turn the motor over. I have it hooked to a battery charger/jump off and it has 12-13 volts, so thats not the problem. IT has spun the motor a total of 4-5 times in 2 weeks of messing with it, and when the motor DID turn, it was reeallllly slow.

What am i doing wrong? im good with my hands, but cant diagonose it, ive looked adn fiddled with everything.. and i dont want to go spend 100 bucks an hour at a boat shop! LOL

any help? thanks in advance

PS, sorry my spelling is all over, im frustrated!"
 
"battery cable ends ,pos. and

"battery cable ends ,pos. and neg, especially at the block. remove , wire brush reinstall."
 
"ok, WOW, its amazing what a l

"ok, WOW, its amazing what a little sandpaper will do to old metal, LOL!

ok, now its turning over everytime, no problem... but VERRY slow... battery is ok, its not spinning fast enough to fire up.

Also, im getting some smoke (melting wire smell) from the starter area. It startes smoking after about 1 min of trying to start it (10 sec at a time).

could the solonoid attached to the starter be bad? it has a small crack in it at the ground wire that i put a small amount of silocone to keep it water out of it."
 
""Also, im getting some sm

""Also, im getting some smoke (melting wire smell) from the starter area. It startes smoking after about 1 min of trying to start it (10 sec at a time)."

Smoking wire comes from high resistance and current heating the wire--replace the battery cables.

"could the solonoid attached to the starter be bad? it has a small crack in it at the ground wire that i put a small amount of silocone to keep it water out of it."

Yes, it can definitely contribute."
 
"ok, well, ill pull the starte

"ok, well, ill pull the starter off (for the 16hundreth time lol) and get that soloniod replaced, adn go get some wore for new cables!

thansk for the help,.. i will be back im sure to get it fixed up more! HA"
 
"ok, well... today the starter

"ok, well... today the starter wont even turn the motor over?@?!?@!!

I went and got a new battery, so i know thats good, but its just clicking.. i think im gonna have to take the exaust manifolds off to get to all teh grounds to check them out and make sure its a good connection. would this be the thing to do?

also, if i do take them off, how hard is it to run straight pipes? im wondering since i have them off, why not do it then ya know? what do i have to do to the outdrive to plug the exaust holes etc?

i need to get it runnign first no doubt, but if its not to hard.."
 
Have you tried shorting the la

Have you tried shorting the large studs on the slave solenoid? It sends voltage to the starter solenoid which turns the starter. Did you make new cables? What gauge wire did you use?
 
"yes, i did that, its does the

"yes, i did that, its does the same thing as if i hit it with the key..

i havent ran new wires yet, i have the wire (4 guage) but i didnt have any eye's to put on the ends, so i gotta go get those first.

think it could be just the wiring? the wiring is a absolute MESS, but it ran last year.. er, 2 years ago. I really wish i could figure out a wiring diagram so i could re-wire it clean. I had a show car in the past, and i HATE that it is the way it is.. "
 
"There are two causes for an e

"There are two causes for an engine to crank slow. First is the core engine (bearings, pistons, ...) is tight due to a mechanical irregularity. Second is the starter system is weak due to low battery, starter, solenoid or wiring. I suspect your cables are bad and would check your starter cables for a voltage drop (the wire strands under the vinyl coating corrode and create high resistance - hence heat and the smell. The cable will drop too much voltage and there isn't enough left for the starter to turn the motor over fast). The voltage drop test is simple. Take a volt/ohm meter and set to read DC volts. What you are doing is taking a voltage reading across the cable. When new the cable will only drop about .5 volts or less, corroded I have seen 3+ volts dropped. The red (positive) meter lead clips onto the positive battery post, the black(negitive) meter lead clips onto the other end of the cable you are testing weather it goes to a solinoid/starter or junction point. Nothing is disconnected, just clip the test leads on top of the terminals and crank the motor over while reading the meter. The highest displayed reading will be your voltage drop. Anything over 1 volt would be cause to replace the cable. Perform this on the cable from the positive battery to starter solenoid, solenoid to starter (if it is remote mounted) and don't forget the ground side which is the negative battery to the engine block. The only time the meter will read a voltage is during cranking as soon as you stop cranking the meter will read 0 volts. If you hook up the meter leads backwards and it is a digital meter it will indicate negative volts which doesn't matter just read the number."
 
I'll add a third and fourt

I'll add a third and fourth possibility to scott's list.
3. Outdrive seizing up
4. Gimbal bearing seizing up
 
Have you check whether the fir

Have you check whether the firing order is correct? You may have pistons working against the starter.
 
"ok, great news, i had trhe st

"ok, great news, i had trhe started checked again, and it ended up having a short in it.. new starter time!

did that, it fired RIGHT UP!

new problem...

after about 1.5-2 min of running, a brown liquid (im assuming its oil(ish)) came spewing out of the valve cover breathers, and the oil check line.. its brown, and i couldnt tell if it was watery, because it just spewed everywhere..

whats the firt thing i need to check? i will check to see what the oil looks like first thing tommorrow.. i turned the motor right off also..."
 
"yea, it was, 2 years ago... n

"yea, it was, 2 years ago... never was started last year, so we didnt winterize it.. oil liiks like a milkshake... BLAH!!!!!!!


Im assumming its a cracked block.. what can i expect to pay for a new one? its a 350 mercruiser in a 95 bayliner, carbed.."
 
"Order a rebiult one from a lo

"Order a rebiult one from a local source if possible.

Do some online reaserch.

Typical price for a long block should be ~ $2000, give or take. If you can do the work yourself then that is about all it will cost if not add another $1000 to it. My guess."
 
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