CrankcaseFront cover oil seal

i was figuring $45/hr as Erich

i was figuring $45/hr as Erich's in-law's share.

"OK...permission granted to or

"OK...permission granted to order parts, which I had already done yesterday anyway. I ordered the seal and the sleeve hoping that that will be all that is needed. I also checked the local Autozone and they do have a free loaner of a harmonic balance puller and installer. I don't know if I have buy something from them also. So hopefully some time next week after I get the parts I will be able "get er done".

What do you think about using the starter motor as an assistant in removing the bolt that holds the balancer to the shaft? Pull and ground the center wire at the distributor, then use my remote started box to crank the engine with a wrench on the bolt. This being done only if there is not enough friction to let a breaker bar do the job. After "cracking" that bolt, I would then remove the belts, pulley, and balancer. As stated before, this is the LH port engine to the rotation is opposite of the bolt removal.

Thanks guys,

OH...and it isn't really about how much it would cost to have someone else do the job...since I would only be paying 50%...but more of the sense of accomplishment and satisfaction with doing it myself. Heck I don't pay anyone to change the oil and filters, or a lot of others maintenance/repair work, so why start now."

"I wouldn't - flying tools

"I wouldn't - flying tools are safety hazards, especially if you're trying to hold them by hand. You'll need a socket to get down into the recess, too.

If needed, you can usually use a pry bar on the flywheel teeth to keep things from rotating.

The torque spec for the balancer bolt is 85 ft*lbs, the pulley bolts go to 35 ft*lbs.

On the engine description, it is described as a LH motor. The reference position is behind the flywheel, looking towards the balancer. Then select Left or Right based on the direction the top of the flywheel moves. This should also be on the ID plate, in front of the serial #."

"Yeah, I agree with Mark. 85

"Yeah, I agree with Mark. 85 lb/ft doesn't require any heroics in holding the engine from turning. That torque spec is far lower than many modern cars. I just fought with a honda that had ~ 300 lb/ft, and BMW with well over 200. On the GM, I think a quick 24" breaker bar action got it loose. To torque it to 85, you might plan on a rag between a belt and the crank pulley. It's still reachable with the pulley on."

"OK, no starter to be used. Ba

"OK, no starter to be used. Based on your excellent input I hope to be able to remove that bolt with just a little persuasion needed.

Have a great weekend!

Erich"

"Well today was the day to tac

"Well today was the day to tackle this job. I was not a piece of cake. The first attempt to remove the bolt on the harmonic damper resulted in a snapped 3/8" socket extention. Had to go get a 1/2" socket and extention. Holding the damper was done with the use of a crowbar held between the water pump housing and the damper by one person while the other, with the use of a 20" pipe over the handle of the ratchet provide the needed leverage. Next came off the pulley and belts. But now the really hard part...pulling the damper/harmonic balancer off the shaft. Yes, I remembered that important hint to remove the big washer. I borrowed a so called "universal" puller from Autozone but it didn't have the correct bolts to attach it to the damper, so we used the bolts for the pulley. Boy did this require a lot of torque and once again had to use the crowbar to keep the shaft from turning. Had it out about 3/8 of an inch when suddenly something gave and the socket wrench was turning much easier. I thought it had finally broken free bu damn, the threads stripped on the large center bolt of the puller" Off to a hardware store to get some longer bolts in order to use threads further up that big bolt. Once the new longer bolts were in place we were finally able to get the damper off.
Removing the seal was next and was not too difficult..just had to use a screwdriver and hammer to bang the seal in towards the center and then pry it out. Cleaned the area up, applied a light coat of gasket sealer to the outside edge of the new seal and installed it using a makeshift tool made of a 3" OD black pipe coupling with a plug in one end. Installed the sleeve on the damper using a block of wood and hammer...went on nice a straight. Installing the damper went well using a combination of another Autozone installer tool and then a small sledge hammer to drive it all the way on, using that 3" coupling again. Reinstalled the center bolt and washers, pulley, and belts. Fired up the engine...and HOORAY! Let it run for about 20 minutes and no oil leak.

I could not have done it without the great advice and suggestions from Mark, Dave, and others on this forum. THANK YOU ALL!

Sorry for the long post but maybe thisi will help someone else in the future.

Erich"

glad you got it done....not a

glad you got it done....not a good ideal to use sledges on balancers. Make a note in your log book just in case it acts up in two years.

what did the autozone clerk say when you returned the tools?

Did your partner help? What did he say when the pan stayed blue with the engine running?

"Yep, definately 1/2" tool

"Yep, definately 1/2" tool territory, not 3/8!

Oil on the puller threads does help also. Glad it ultimately went ok.."

"mark and dave,

I just retu

"mark and dave,

I just returned the loaner tools and after I got the deposit back -- which is equal to the sales price -- I then brought it to the clerk's attention that the threads were stripped. All he said was "wow, this will have to go into damaged goods".

Next time, if there is a next time, I will try oiling the puller threads.

Thanks again,
Erich"

I've found what they rent

I've found what they rent is the same that they sell and it usually isn't worth it. The only tools I'll buy from there are sockets and fixed wrenches - nothing with a threaded part.

"I have tools made by MAC and

"I have tools made by MAC and S-K and others made in China...Yes there is a difference but for the ones I use so frequently, I need a good fit , feel, and performance. For the one 2 15/16 nut I may twist off every 2 years, that 3/4" drive China set works just fine...Of course, exceptions do apply at any time and when they do...you never know what can happen !"

"I think I've got a bit of

"I think I've got a bit of everything, mostly domestic, from most of the recognized brands. Over the last six or so years, I've ventured to the local AutoZone or Advanced, usually in need of a tool. The first was for a tie rod separator for a little Datsun - the fifth whack and the fork opened. what was a "U" was now more like a "V". The last time was April; needed a flaring tool for a brake line. I practiced on a copper tube, twice, because I hadn't flaring anything in many years. I put it on the brake line and the bolt driving the anvil stripped.

Ironically, I never had a problem getting a full refund at either place. They didn't say and I didn't ask but my hunch is it happens frequently."