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Motor stuck in down position 1995 150HP oceanrunner

M

mcgurk

Member
My 1995 150 HP Oceanrunner is

My 1995 150 HP Oceanrunner is stuck down because of a blown Tilt & Trim motor. I can't trailer the boat like this. The hydraulic release screw is jammed and the screw head is damaged. I can't get a screwdriver to grip. What the solution? Drill the screw head and try an extrator bit? Dynamite? Sell the boat?
 
"you could try sticking a scre

"you could try sticking a screw driver to the screw with some J?B weld let it set up then try screwing it out, if not you can pound the ram pin out but on a 1995 that would be a job if all elese fales you can take the motor off and get to the motor like that, and if im not mistaken you are going to have to take the motor off the boat to get to one of the screws of the trim motor, if all you need to do is trailer it now you can block up the boat on the trailer while its in the water and then pull the motor when you get to were you are going, allways rem theres more then one way to skin a cat"
 
open the fill hole and manuall

open the fill hole and manually lift the motor oil will come out but you can get the motor up that way
 
Can you get the boat on the tr

Can you get the boat on the trailer without the leg being on the ground? If you have an inch or two to spare I would get it on the trailer...find somewhere real close where you can back up to a drop off...so that the leg is now far enough off the ground that you can just unbolt the leg and drop it off. Now you can trailer it safely and do a water pump change at the same time.
 
"Thanks for the replys.
The b

"Thanks for the replys.
The boat is on the trailer right now. On level ground there is about 1" ground clearence under the skeg. With motor down the only thing that is accessable is the release screw. Somehow, that screw has to be turned. There is a 'C' clip retainer in front of the screw's body which I can remove. What is the clip holding in place? Will removing the C clip help get the motor up?
BTW, I will shore the boat up on the trailer to get it out of the boat ramp area today. I think 4" should do it. Short trip home but not on level ground. I will also get a different hitch receiver to drop the trailer ball and raising the motor."
 
"the c clip,prevents unscrewin

"the c clip,prevents unscrewing it,too far.r u sure the motor is out,..have u cked it directly w/jumper wires or cables?..u r correct,..that release screw,sure needs to come out,or loose about 3 turns."
 
"w/someone,hitting the up butt

"w/someone,hitting the up button,..tap on,or near the trim mtr sometimes,they'll jog up...keep on the up button,tap mtr."
 
"here is a solution,to the ime

"here is a solution,to the imediate prob...
park boat,if poss,on an incline,hill,etc,..and remove lower unit to get u home."
 
"you can pull the lower unit w

"you can pull the lower unit while the boat is in the water you dont need to take it out to get it off, it wont hurt anything"
 
Pulling the leg off in the wat

Pulling the leg off in the water can be done if the leg is up. Not sure how you would remove it when it is down and submerged. Your going to be 4 feet under by the time you get it free.
 
"Small progress. The boat is h

"Small progress. The boat is home. I jacked the boat and placed 4x4 timbers between the rollers and hull at the stern. One side at a time. Got almost 4" of road clearance. Short sucessful trip home.

The motor is still down. After looking at a parts diagram the stuck release valve is OMC 0435340. It looks like it treads into the hydraulic value body, but it will not budge. The treads are in the middle of this part, not on the ends. Any thoughts on how to get this thing loose or out. I've already removed the C clip stop. A new release valve is about $80. Distroying the old one is OK with me, but I don't want to take out the part it is treaded into."
 
"if u have,anything left of th

"if u have,anything left of the slot,ears,..u can try a punch,or chisel,to get it started.."
 
"About half left of the slot.

"About half left of the slot. The release valve is about 3/4" deep inside the outside engine case casting. Not much room to get an angle on it, but I'll try that next."
 
"Update; I got the release val

"Update; I got the release valve open with an easyout. It wasn't easy but its out. I need to replace it so I removed it until fluid came out. It looked very clean no metal. However, the motor is still stuck down. I can't get it move by my back alone. How heavy is this thing? Am I missing something? The lower unit is clear of the ground."
 
"Update II; Ok this time the m

"Update II; Ok this time the motor is finally up. I guess I didn't open the release enough to actually release the hydraulic ram.
New question, there are two, hydraulic pistons either side of the Main Ram. Both are in the down position even with the weight of the motor off. I'm thinking this is not normal. I'm going to pull the whole T&T assembly off. The lower mounting rod came right out. But the upper hasn't budged yet. Clips are removed on both sides. Any thoughts other than brut force and liquid wrench."
 
Next time you're out tool

Next time you're out tool shopping pick up an impact screwdriver. That way you won't damage the release screw should you ever need to open it again.
Good luck.
 
"John, Is perfectly normal for

"John, Is perfectly normal for both lower pistons to be in the down position when you manually lifted the engine up by releasing air into the chambers.
As for the replacement screw use a light coat of gasket sealer lasts a lifetime and will never seize again. Heat is the last option for the top pin because you will melt the plastic bushings, Good luck"
 
"Thanks for the replies, I and

"Thanks for the replies, I and happy to hear that the piston down is normal when air is in the system. My biggest leason learned is to turn this valve often to make sure you can. New boat to me and the screw damage was already there. So in this case it would not have helped.
What a poor design. As an emergency release valve this thing should be fail safe and fool proof. A screwdriver slot should never have been used in this application. A Hex head or a large allen head would be a more realistic design. I had to apply 60-70 ft/lbs of force to get this thing turning and to keep it turning. You could never do that with a screwdriver without damage even an impact type. Won't Gasket sealer lock the treads? Can neverseize compound be used on the treads? It works great on dry connections of dissimilar metals not sure about it in a hydrualic oil environment."
 
"Hi again John ive done more t

"Hi again John ive done more then 25 of these same jobs in my life and out of all of those only 2 of those didnt need heat to pull the pin and both of those motors were new, so in your case with a 15yr old motor im pretty sure your gonna need a the smoke wrench, a lot of people that dont use fire are kind of scared of it and try to stay away from it but I have learned in my 25yrs as a omc mecanic in the tropics of florida if a motor is more then 5yrs old you are going to have to use the fire to get things done"
 
"I am yet to find something th

"I am yet to find something that works like gasket sealer it simply lasts , My Dad use this on our Bulldozer sprocket we talking tons of pressure and underwater use in the swamps. Service time the gasket sealer looks like its new.
In the past he told me he used grease never can find a trace of it so is the anti seize.
However use gasket sealer sparingly not to have it contaminate the fluid or excessive.
Also use the never seize and check it annually.
Bottom line your call."
 
Use some sealer by all means a

Use some sealer by all means as it will prevent water from entering the threads and seizing up.

Dont use never seize as you may have a problem in the future with electrolisis
 
"Jamie, there is marine grade

"Jamie, there is marine grade never seize, contains no metals...the navy uses it exclusively. I was given a big container of it from the navy yard to try. I use it instead of grease. My lug nuts on my trailer come off easily now even after a full season of in and out in saltwater."
 
"Bruce,
Where is the best pl

"Bruce,
Where is the best place to put the heat, the pin or the casting that holds the pin. The pin is probably stuck on both sides, Heat both ends, then start driving the pin with a big hammer? What works best?"
 
"HI John you want to put the h

"HI John you want to put the heat on the pin, when im pounding one out I use a pc of stock almost the size of the pin, you can try a old socket holding it with some vise grips, dont try holding it with your bare hands if so you might pul back a knub,) and wear eye protection, when reinstalling it give at a good slathering of omc tripple guard greese, that is the best stuff in the world for any thing you want to stay protected in salt water, good luck with it"
 
"one thing i forgot to add use

"one thing i forgot to add use a bfh 5 lb one works good just a framing hammer wont get it, and make sure the first wack that you hit it like it owes you money, the rest will be down hill from there"
 
"Could the easyout technique b

"Could the easyout technique be used here? Use a easyout on 1 or both sides to get the pin spinning and loose with penetrating lubricant and finesse? When I pound on metal, I sometimes break it. I break easyouts too, so- just a thought-
Good luck!
Dave"
 
Well the end is here. Successf

Well the end is here. Successfully too. Once that Pin was out(heat + 8lb sledgehammer)so was the T&T assembly. Replacing pump motor & release valve was an easy job after that.
My Thanks to all for your help and encouragement. The boat will be launched later today. Thanks again.
 
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