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Removal of 280 Transom Shield

M

mickcc

Member
"Hi El,Rick and mick if his is

"Hi El,Rick and mick if his is still around

Well from the last post topic of old 280 stern drive i`ve starting a new area i`m getting in now is the broken transon shield a the boat just arrived today, i managed to remove the leg by the book and that`s about far it goes- ie the book! now the tech bit the shield it self if you can get to the bolts etc can it be done with out moving the engine and would this be a good time to make an alighment tool
ps the parts arrived from lightendog and no corrision was present around anywhere - very lucky here parts sent halfway around the world and thanks to you guys all went well - i thank you and the great site we all share here.
mick"
 
"Mick, there are just so many

"Mick, there are just so many advantages in pulling this little engine for this work. I'd not even consider doing this while trying to leave the engine in place.
(Just my take on that.)

Also, Mick, there is no alignment tool needed on the AQ series drives. You simply triangulate equally via the three flats at Flywheel Cover to Transom Shield.
The OEM manual will show this. (rather see us not use Seloc or Clymers for this stuff)"
 
Rick

Your right again - I w

Rick

Your right again - I was looking for an easy way out.

The have the Seloc book and it is hopeless on the Shield area doesn`t even get in the areas like removing the Steering Forks let alone the V exhaust pipe and the Transom Shield and the fly wheel cover alignment? i don`t have this information.

All the Wires the water pipes and fuel lines have all be removed and have moved the engine clear of the exhaust V pipe. Tomorrow i will hopefully tackle the 4 bolts on the v pipe and then remove the Transom Shield

do you have the missing info that i will need in the installation of the shield etc
Mick
 
"Mick, I've been working w

"Mick, I've been working with these drives for a long time. I like a short cut as well as the next guy, but I'm never willing to sacrifice an important aspect of this work to achieve one!
Ya pay in the long run if you do!

Mick, you refer to a "V" pipe (I assume you mean Y pipe) ....... I was thinking that this was a 4 cylinder engine..... Yes/No?

I guess it's a moot point whether we are talking about a Y pipe or an inline engine Exhaust Down Tube......... the four bolts to remove one are basically the same. Remove with caution. Heat is always good.

Move the pipe Port to Stbd, then Stbd to Port very gently. I would NOT try to move it FWD or AFT. A side to side movement is a better motion to help get this part to free up without damage to it. This is a delicate part when corrosion has one locked in place, so to speak.

I'm not sure what other questions you have but will leave you with this:

The inner large black "rope" gasket is what actually seals the Transom Shield to the Transom (stern).
If this gasket is now sitting "proud" of the housing, it can be re-used. Use a sealant if you wish both under and on the outside of this gasket.... (be sure to seal the joint at the top).

The sealing of the six bolts is where most make their mistake!
We must seal the <u>"Shanks"</u> of these six mounting bolts with the Volvo Penta special "O"rings p/n 850418.
These "O" rings become "Squeezed" within the <u>"Chamfered"</u> holes in the stern of the boat.
In Other Words; It is the compression of these "O" rings that force them to contract and seal around the both bolt "shank" and at the same time, seal against the transom and the transom shield.

We DO NOT rely on any sealant around the perimeter of the transom shield and/or the bolt heads..... this is improper and if you see this done, it has been done by someone who does not know how to properly install an AQ series transom shield!
(sorry to sound like the NAZI on that, but I've seen this too many times..... and if they leak, well, you will have a wet transom core in short order)

You'll need at least one new Rubber Sealing Ring (p/n 804190) for the Flywheel Cover side (inside ring... this one does the water sealing).
Install the engine and align the rubber torque cushion and exhaust system before you tighten the six Clamping Ring bolts.
If this is one of the Cantilever mounted engines, just leave it hanging until you get all of this aligned and tightened."
 
"Mick, as I recall you had a V

"Mick, as I recall you had a V8 Chevy installed. For the most part I agree with what Ricardo has told you and I reckon he is far more experienced than I am with these units. However, I suggest there are instances where silicone, Sikaflex, or another sealing product may be needed in addition to the sealing ring around the transom shield, depending on the transom finishing. It is not the first time I see a transom shield not sealing properly the transom in one or several areas, in which case Sikaflex or silicone can be your friend. This, however, is not the general rule.

Same could be said about the seals around the 6 bolts attaching the transom shield to the transom (part 62 in the link). In a perfect world, they would be sufficient to prevent water ingress; but in a less than perfect world like ours, a good coat of Sikaflex or silicone around the bolt shanks will definitely help.

http://www.volvopentastore.com/CONNECTING_COMPONENTS_AQ_DRIVE_275/dm/cart_id.592 771787--session_id.031017521--store_id.366--view_id.325263


Also, I have found that both sealing rings (the one around the bellhousing - or flywheel cover and the clamping ring), part 40 on the above link, can often be reused if they are not severely deformed. But in case of doubt, you cannot go wrong by using a new one.

The main thing I would do after pulling the engine and removing the transom shield is to inspect the transom area for rot. If the transom is rotted (not uncommon inn a boat the age of yours) the new transom shield will not last. The other transom shield failed for a reason, and I don't think impact was the cause (but again, I could be wrong).

I would be quite interested in seeing some pictures of the condition of the transom shield, as well as of the Y-pipe, bellhousing, etc. Would you mind uploading them after you have removed the engine and the transom shield from the boat?"
 
"El P. I think that you are I

"El P. I think that you are I are on the same page here..... I too fully agree that sealant can and should be used on both the large rubber rope seal and the six fat "O" ring seals.
This I fully agree with.

I have also seen the sealant being used around the perimeter of the a shield.
I'd only do this as a last resort.
And if I did do this...., I'd make darn sure that each carriage head was fully sealed to the transom shield.
Otherwise, a sealed perimeter will be breached by a leaking bolt head. Now you have trapped water within the confines of the shield foot print.

As for the rubber ring.... yeah, well, sortta on the re-using of an old one.
I've done it, but of course I have knowledge of just how deformed one can be before I'd not re-use it.
If the flywheel cover/shield/clamping ring have nothing left to compress, we've lost both the water sealing ability and the engine mounting "cushion" that these two components provide.
At the very least, flip them around (take advantage of the "set").... seal the one against the Flywheel Cover, and then assemble.

Yes, I am very anal.... but also rarely do I have to "Re-Do" work that I have done! (maybe that's my motivating factor... I hate re-doing things! LOL)

Ditto on the checking for rot!

And yes.... pictures are good! Got some?

."
 
"Hi guy`s
Been having a littl

"Hi guy`s
Been having a little problem with uploading pics have to shrink them down for the site so this is the third time.

Here we go ... well removed the y pipe from the Transom shield Heat more heat and the crow bar port to starborn you name it tried every thing and then it moved after that it fell off what a hell of a job you actually need 2 people on this, thought some thing was gonna break.
284110.jpg
replacement and old
 
"here some more pics y pipe pa

"here some more pics y pipe part number 1-835283 need a new o ring i need a part number for this.
284122.jpg
"
 
"Well Mick, that is good! Tha

"Well Mick, that is good! That single relief Y pipe is very difficult to find these days.
While you have this shield on the bench, see if some heat will allow you to remove the two anode screws.... even if you don't need to replace the anode now. These usually become pretty corroded... if you clean/grease them now, changing later will be much easier for you.

Now, I notice that your old water tube is the earliler short version.... Be very careful when removing these. They are Chromed Copper.... soft as butter.
Best I can offer (not that you asked) is to entirely remove the two studs so you can get two, very sharp, wedges between the shield and tube flange... and gently force this out of the shield.
Heat again is your friend here.
Do your best to not drive on the S hose connection side of this tube..... it will deform, and you'll play Hell getting it out! "
 
"OK, the training wheels come

"OK, the training wheels come off today, Mick.
Go to the menu on the site that El P posted. You will be able to find this shield and the correct O ring p/n's there.
Look under "Connecting Components"."
 
"Rick
Any reason why on my la

"Rick
Any reason why on my last pic {post 25} of the Y pipe has the hole for water outlet you can see an extended pipe has been attached and on the end a rubber bung - is Blocking the pipe.
This has also been blocked off another way as in [post 23 ] on the replacement shield RHS
Mick
284133.jpg
please note that the rubber rings have left a mark on the shield more surface on the top areas then the bottom of the shield."
 
"As for Rot not that i can see

"As for Rot not that i can see did here from the brother in law that they did have a problem with the leg not locking in when going forward and if the clamping rings were set to high is in pic post 24 would this cause the leg to kick up under power and smash into the transom.????

Yep rick will use the old seals on the shield but gotta admitt the shield from lightendog is in pretty good nick.. it cost about $231.00 of your now very expensive us Dollars to get here.

and the Chrome copper thats the next Bugger i have to attack and then the Suspension fork...replacement.
Like any more pics -one training wheel still on.
Mick
284137.jpg
"
 
"Having touble uploading that

"Having touble uploading that post from El P, google can`t find the link i`ll try again later as for reusing the clamp rings i check out the cost, one is slightly out of round the bell housing one part 804190 but looks ok and the outer o ring part 850418 looks real good.
Here a pic for El P DAMAGED SHIELD ..........
Damn can`t get if off the sd card will try later.
Mick"
 
"Mick, I think that you need t

"Mick, I think that you need to see an exploded view of how this goes back together properly.

When are you installing this?
I'll try to find some good images and send to you."
 
Might be a little while have t

Might be a little while have to order parts and did find some rot inside the Transom Hull ???
the site "volvpentastore.com" doen`t even get a hit on google let alone page listings?

Mick
 
"Mick, use a proxy server to a

"Mick, use a proxy server to access www.volvopentastore.com. For some reason unknown to me, Internet users from Australia, NZ, UK and other counties seem to be "censored" by their ISP and are unable to access the VP Store site. Using a proxy server should fix that."
 
"Found a better site for parts

"Found a better site for parts at
http://powerproductsystems.com
has all the shields for 280 etc detailed schematics down to even lugs and crimps. with part numbers
now i can order the parts

ps. tried the proxy server freebie lets u open one search only.
Mick"
 
I had an issue with one of my

I had an issue with one of my transom shield mounting bolts as it did leak even with new o rings. I pulled the bolt back out and sealed it with sealant around the shaft of the bolt. No more leak. Any comments on this?
 
"Harv, You did the correct thi

"Harv, You did the correct thing...... these rubber sealing rings (and the bolt shanks) should have sealant applied to them, regardless!
I think that either Life Caulk or 3M 4200 are good choices."
 
Hi Guys still here

Found so

Hi Guys still here

Found some rot in the transom a small hole in the fibreglass after a bit of probing ends up being a hole 6x8 inches will get back to u after its fix
at the moment reassembling the suspension forks back together the special tool to hammer the water tube back in - could be made up on a lathe?
don`t want to damage the collar as it rests on a o`ring on the lower leg.
any info.
Mick
 
"Mick, when the pivot tube is

"Mick, when the pivot tube is cleaned up, and the bore in the Intermediate housing is cleaned up, these go back together easily. I often use a Copper (yes copper) hammer that I have. It is much softer than the "pivot tube" and will not harm the surface.

Or, you make a brass tool to fit, and press it back in. Either method will work, IMO."
 
"Rick
will do as you say, m

"Rick
will do as you say, must admitt it did`t like been removed in the first place i have a hide and nylon hammer dad`s got the copper one
see if i can find it.
thanks
ps O ring parts are in the mail should be here some time this week.

Mick."
 
"Thank to all on this post all

"Thank to all on this post all is going well the brother in law now to be ex brother in law did fill the hole that start as a screw hole to a hole if 5 x 8 inches of rott took a while now have the replacement transom of the 280 bolted it in place used sikaflex to on the o ring of the transam mount and have attacted the water pipe and the shift cable ready for re installation
at the same time the leg the top section is off so i`m filling it up with the good stuff quick silver gear oil you should have see the old stuff everday gear oil full of grit now thats all gone the new forks are assembled replaced the upper bush that as broken durning the damage due to broken fork, exhaust is now inplace ready for the engine to be re positioned in place for exhaust y pipe , tomorrow shift cable is in place and the exhaust bellow tighten on the y pipe with goo.
mick
all you guys are most likely out fishing here bit`s too blood cold to even think about that here 12 Deg Cel..
have i mist anything
regards mick"
 
"Still no one around ..
So fa

"Still no one around ..
So far so good all back together.
Guys just wanted to check the reverse locking on the transom bar , if i lift the leg the leg will move about 8mm it seems to have this movement on the leg reverse lock ...is this normal.??
is it that when the boat is moving forward that the leg cannot lift, same as reverse and the tilt would only be used for putting it on a trailer so the leg is raised to prevent damage while in transit?

I`m a little bit lost here can any one help.
Mick"
 
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