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Zero oil pressure after oil change

helmut

New member
"Strange thing happened today.

"Strange thing happened today.
I changed the oil on one of my Chrysler 440s. Engine ran well during warm up and oil pressure was 40 psig. After I changed the oil, the oil pressure was zero and the engine was making strange noises and wanted to stall. I shut it down right away. Yes there is oil in it. I put in six quarts and the dip stick shows full. I removed the new oil filter and was completely dry, no oil in it. I replaced the new oil filter with the old one and still no oil pressure and the oil filter did not fill with oil. I don’t think the pressure sending unit is faulty. Could the pick up tube be plugged or have fallen off? I can’t imagine the oil cooler becoming plugged. Any other ideas? The pressure was fine before I changed the oil. It didn't go down gradually. It was just zero.
I guess the oil pump is at the front of the engine. Can I get at everything I need to by removing the oil pump from the front of the engine. It would be a tight squeeze from the front and there would be a lot of peripheral stuff to remove.
Thanks for your help."
 
"Ouch! That reminds me of the

"Ouch! That reminds me of the hell I went through autocrossing Buick V-6s (that have an even worse oiling system). I suspect you have a air bubble that is keeping the oil from being drawn in--either that or, as you stated, the oil pickup tube could be blocked or missing.

Here's what I'd do:

1. Do NOT run the motor again until this is resolved. You're already dancing on thin ice here.

2. Pull the distributor cap and see if the rotor is turning. If so, note which way. (If not, THAT is your problem.)

3. If the rotor is turning, pull the distributor out. (First bump the motor over until the mark is on TDC, and note which way the rotor is pointing).

4. Make up an oil pump turning device. Use the distributor as a guide. Mount this device in a 3/8 drill and spin the oil pump the RIGHT way!

5. Note if the oil pressure comes up. If it does not, the motor has to come out. No way are you going to get away with repairing it in place.

Good luck!

Jeff"
 
"Jeff, You forgot step 3 1/2.

"Jeff, You forgot step 3 1/2.
After the distributor comes out, when you look down the hole there is a gear with a shaft attached under the gear, that shaft is what drives the oil pump, (and distributor)
283006.jpg
Mopar dist. drive gear"">
, so the gear (with oil pump drive) also has to come out.

MAKE A NOTE, OR MARK ON THE BLOCK, THE DIRECTION OF THE SLOT IN THE MIDDLE OF THE GEAR. (it should be parallel to the engine block). We use a large slotted screwdriver to rotate the gear/shaft assembly to walk it up till the gear disengages from the cam gear.
The tool to drive the oil pump is a 6 sided rod about 20 inches long
283007.jpg
OIL PUMP PRIMING SHAFT"">

Chrysler part # P4286800 $6.95
http://www.jimsautoparts.com/mopar_performance_oiling.htm
or
$7.88 at Summit
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=DCC-4286800

Again, make sure that you turn the priming tool in the same direction as the Distributor rotor was turning.

Hey, how about the "OIL PUMP KIT" towards the bottom of the page
283008.jpg
OIL PUMP KIT"">
http://www.jimsautoparts.com/mopar_performance_oiling.htm

Looks like you might be able to squeeze this in while standing on your head.

hope this helps, good luck

Fred 156-M


(Only 32 days till Augusta, MI.)
http://www.michiganhydroplane.com/Members.html"
 
"Thanks for your help. You&#39

"Thanks for your help. You're scaring me. The distributor should still be turning. The engine was still running with no oil pressure. Is it possible that the oil pump is just air locked and needs to be primed. Unless the gear shaft is snapped or broken, I am assuming the pump should still turn. I will try to remove the oil pump this weekend and inspect it and the bypass valve. Should I be able to see the shaft turning if I bump the engine? If it dosen't work I guess I will have to remove the distributor.

Again Thanks for your help."
 
"Yah Jeff,
Quit Scaring the g


"Yah Jeff,
Quit Scaring the guy.
Of coarse the distributor is turning if the engine runs.


Helmut
When you pull that cover off of the pump, there is nothing to hold the other 2 parts (pictured in the kit) in place, except your finger.

I'd slap a little grease on the oil pump rotor before reassembly , and see if that helps it get its prime. If so , i think that it's time for a rebuild.

Fred 156-M

(Only 32 days till Augusta, MI.)
http://www.michiganhydroplane.com/Members.html"
 
I had a car motor that sat for

I had a car motor that sat for 4 years during a restoration. I was always told to crank the motor w/o starting until I saw oil pressure on the guage. To promote priming the trick is to coat the parts with vaseline. It will prime quickly and then dissolve harmlessly into the oil.
Eddie
 
"On a 440 it IS possible to re

"On a 440 it IS possible to remove the intermediate shaft (Freds 1st pic) with the distributor removed. You need to find out if you sheared the 5/16" hex off the end. No hex on the shaft = no oil pressure even though the engine can run. If the end sheared it might be possible to extract the tip from the rotor with a good magnet. Otherwise it will have to come out with the pump.

Note, running an engine even for a short time without oil pressure can damage bearings. So Jeff's advice "1. Do NOT run the motor again until this is resolved. You're already dancing on thin ice here." is highly recommended.

There is an outside chance your pressure relief valve on the oil pump has stuck wide open on you upon startup, after the oil change. You might try loosening if you can get at it."
 
"This exact thing happened to

"This exact thing happened to me. Before you buy a rebuild kit for the pump, do as posted and pull the distributor to be able to turn it with drill. Pull your oil filter off. There is a thicker than oil product at Schuck's in I believe a 16oz. bottle. The bottle is oblong in semi opaque plastic, with red cap. Pour this into the filter and then turn the distributor with the drill. You have lost prime in your system. By filling the filter with a more thick oil, it creates a back pressure. Regular oil is too thin and grease is a bit too thick. Look in the oil additive section. I wish I could remember the name. This idea was given to me by another Chrysler guru in the Everett, WA area (again, his shop's name eludes me, but he was very helpful).

When your drill bogs down when turning the distributor, you have regained prime. I will try and get to a Schuck's and find the product if you can't find it.

I was exactly in your shoes. It will work out."
 
"Thanks guys, your advice is p

"Thanks guys, your advice is priceless.

I will go down to the boat on the weekend and see what I have. I'll start with the easy stuff and work my way up. I'll report back, I owe you at least that for all the time you spent.

Thanks again

Helmut"
 
"Not knowing the name of that

"Not knowing the name of that product drove me nuts, so I went to Schucks to find it. It is called 'Hy-per Lube.' It's in a 32 oz bottle. Its consistency is that of honey ($7.99). Pour it in the oil filter, reattach, crank your drill in the distributor and it should re-prime. This happened to me a week before vacation 2 yrs ago. I rebuilt my oil pump, had a mechanic down, etc. and nothing worked, except this.

Your symptoms are exactly what I had. Please keep us posted."
 
"Agreed-it's probably got

"Agreed-it's probably got an air lock--but this still should NOT happen after an oil change. The pump is still full of oil, not dry like it would be after a rebuild.

I hope the drill motor trick works for you.

Jeff"
 
"Hello everyone:

A quick fo


"Hello everyone:

A quick follow up. Problem seems to have been a faulty new Napa oil filter. I replaced it with a new Fram and no problems. I don't know why the bypass valve didn't open. Maybe plugged with gunk. I'll check.
I realized the problem when I installed the Napa oil filter from the one engine on the other engine, and guess what, no oil pressure.
Thanks again for all your help.

Helmut"
 
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