Volvo Part Numbers

"I ordered replacement pins fo

"I ordered replacement pins for my drive to shield connection. Part 15 on this breakdown: http://www.volvopentastore.com/SHIELD_WITH_MOUNTING_COMPONENTS/dm/cart_id.249961 388--session_id.586347868--store_id.366--view_id.314375
The original PN 872095 matches the OEM parts manual I have for the drive. It is cross references as being PN 872493 on Volvo's web site. However, I recieved the pins today and there is a problem. The pins sent are approx. 11/16 Dia and 2 3/16 longs. My original pins are 1" Dia. and 2 3/16" Long. This will lead to allot of play. Volvo no longer allows you to contact them, except thru a dealer. The dealer tells me that it is the part number they specify and there is nothing they can do. I still need to get my hands on the correct pins. Any ideas how? Or do I just dust off the lathe and make them myself?"

"Somehow, I think the dimensio

"Somehow, I think the dimensions of the pins you got belong to a 270/275/280/290 AQ series transom shield, which is part 853175. It looks like they sent you the wrong parts (Ricardo, what's your opinion?).

I would not make the pins myself unless they were no longer available (which is not likely the case). And in any case (out of curiosity), what happened to your original pins? Those things don't wear out."

"Find a dealer who is somethin

"Find a dealer who is something other than a parts counter monkey, preferrably one who has been in business for a couple of decades."

"The schematic that you select

"The schematic that you selected this p/n from is "CONNECTING COMPONENTS DRIVE UNIT SP-C, DP-C" drive. This is what some B/Y mechanics call the "Large Pin" 290.
The DP C/SP C main suspension fork hinge pins are considerably larger than those of the earlier 290 drive.
Sounds like you were sent 290 hinge pins.

Now, I have found errors in some of these schematics over the years. Doug Russell dot com has many errors, so if you use D/R, use caution.
What I'd do...... (still using http://www.volvopentastore.com/)..... would be to find the Suspension Fork schematic for this very same DP C/SP C drive/fork/shield ....... (as what I assume your drive to be... correct?)

If the P/T cylinders make a direct connection to the fork (no SS swing bracket), and the reverse latch unit has been eliminated...., then you have the correct schematic and the p/n error would appear to be theirs, NOT YOURS.... IMO.
They should honor that and send you via "over-night" the correct pins!

But that's just my opinion. Hope you get it figured out.

Ditto El P's question..... what happened to the original pins? They truly do not wear out!
The do become ruined if trying to drive them out with anything harder than a bread stick and with no heat on the aluminum ears!
Hey... no need to publically confess... we've all been there at one time or another!

Oh come on.... who am I kidding, confess!

."

"I definetly have the DP/C . T

"I definetly have the DP/C . The cylinders are direct mounted to the fork and there is no latch. In fact only the DP/C was available on the 740B engine.
Believe it or not, I damaged the 5/8-16 NC threads removing the pins. This was the 1st time I pulled the drive. I had to double up my wrenchs to get the pressure required to pull the pins. It apears the previous person working on the drive hammered the pins in place with a steel hammer. The pins were also chewed up from what looks wrench mark from turning the pin to line up with the locking bolt.
I called JD at Marine Parts Express, he said he would look into finding the correct pins tommarow."

"OK, you're off the hook!

"OK, you're off the hook! LOL

Yes, all of these hinge pins are soft. The comment about the "bread sticks" is not far off.
If you must drive on them, use a brass or an aluminum punch on them...., and go slowly.
Heat is ALWAYS your friend on these parts. The heat expands the aluminum ever so slightly lessoning it's grab on the pins.
You can drive them out some, then back in some... then out again progressively.
They will come out.

I'd NOT use any automotive Anti or Never Seize on these. The automotive version will expand and Seize them.
I use water proof grease only on them.
You can use a marine version of Never-Seize if you want to.
."

"Special Lubricant 101 (a

"Special Lubricant 101 (a water based grease from Quicksilver) is what I use on those pins, and it works great."

"BTW... I rehabilitated a set

"BTW... I rehabilitated a set of pins that had SOME peening over damage from a heavy fisted previous mechanic with a fine file, fine sandpaper and lots of patience. In my opinion, if the damage is limited to no more than an 1/8 inch in from the end its fixable. Much beyond that... I'd get a new set. Just going to add one more vote here... Do as Rick and "EL" say with these pins."