Wonbt get on plane

"Hi, new to this forum. Read a

"Hi, new to this forum. Read a lot and used some of the info here.

I now am in need of help. I just had my 1986 OMC 1.6L Seadrive overhauled. The mechanic put a Johnson 115 or 140 powerhead on with the bubbleback. First 10 breakin hours she ran great...of course the normal spitting/dying due to double mix.

So,just changed the plugs...put in the QL77JC4 and gapped a .40.

Also, my tach was not working properly and from reading others posts here, I replace the regulator/rectifier. Seems tach is now working ok.
Took it out today, would not plane. Started and idles ok, but when opening it up and trying to plane out, it goes up to approx. 2800 rpm's and that is best it will do. Seems to have take off power, but limits at this RPM.

First question: The new regulator/rectifier was different only in that the red wire that goes to the starter solenoid was only about 14 guage. My original one was much heavier gauge...maybe 8 or 10 guage. Is this a problem?

Second question: I pulled each plug, grounded against the engine and fired it up. They all fired strong except for the top left one. In the sunlight, it was hard to see any spark. The plug was not even wet. Is it possible I have a bad coil? Or is it possible the new regulator/rectifier is the problem in that the red wire does not carry enough load? Not sure what the red wire is supposed to do."

I just did some more research.

I just did some more research. It appears that I have put the wrong regulator/rectifier on the engine. I found a picture on the web by part number and I chose the 193-4204 which has the small red wire. The 103-5204 has the larger red wire with a larger ring terminal on it that would connect to the starter solenoid. I also was able to cross reference the part number on my original which was 583268 to the 103-5204..so would this part being wrong cause the limit on rpm's? Possibly not send enough spark to the plugs?

"Robert,

I think you have t

"Robert,

I think you have the numbers a little mixed up in the above post.

OMC part 583268 supercedes to 0395204 and the direct replacement from CDI is 193-5204 (not 103-5204).

Hopefully someone else can help you with the questions you have asked..."

"Ah, yes, you are right. 193 i

"Ah, yes, you are right. 193 instead of 103. Typo."

"Compression should be 100&#43

"Compression should be 100+ psi and even on all cylinders. Is it? What are the actual readings (number the cylinders).

A coil can be checked simply by switching the primary wire temporarily (usually orange) at the powerpack with another primary coil wire that is firing. If the non firing coil now fires, then obviously it is okay. Remember to switch the wires back.

The spark with the s/plugs removed should jump a 7/16" gap on all cylinders with a strong blue lightning like flame.... a real SNAP! Does it?

Use a professional spark tester or rig a spark tester as follows rather than checking spark with the spark plugs. A spark jumping a small spark plug gap in open air proves nothing.

Spark Tester - Home Made
(J. Reeves)

A spark tester can be made with a piece of 1x4 or 1x6, drive a couple nails through it, then bend the pointed ends at a right angle. You can then adjust the gap by simply twisting the nail(s). Solder a spark plug wire to one which you can connect to the spark plug boots, and a ground wire of some kind to the other to connect to the powerhead somewhere.

Using the above, one could easily build a spark tester whereas they could connect 2, 4, 6, or 8 cylinders all at one time. The ground nail being straight up, the others being bent, aimed at the ground nail. A typical 4 cylinder tester follows:


..........X1..........X2

.................X..(grd)

..........X3..........X4"

"Thanks Joe, I have a spark pl

"Thanks Joe, I have a spark plug tester. Will hook it up tomorrow and see what is going on. Was hard to do while on the lake today.
Still thinking my problem is that I have the wrong regulator/rectifier....what do you think about that? Perhaps it is regulating the spark?"

"A voltage regulator/rectifier

"A voltage regulator/rectifier itself pertains to the battery chraging system only and has no bearing upon the ignition system.

However, the stator, under the flywheel, is a two fold system which the small series of coils provides AC voltage to the voltage regulator/rectifier which the rectifier in turn converts to DC voltage..... and the large black coils provides approximately 300 volts AC to the powerpack capacitor.

Now, if those two large black coils (either of them) start to melt down due to the heat that the stator generates, a voltage drop to the powerpack will exist which results in weak ignition and eventually no ignition. Look under the flywheel at those black coils on the stator. If they're melting a sticky substance down on the timer base and powerhead, replace the stator.

Another item that affects ignition is a intermitent ignition switch short. Test by disconnecting the large RED electrical plug at the engine, then check the spark by jumping the starter solenoid (bat term to small 3/8" nut). If you have good spark with that RED plug disconnected but weak with it connected, replace the ignition switch.

Let us know what you find."

If the plug is dry as you stat

If the plug is dry as you stated then I'd think that cylinder is not getting fuel.
As Mr. Reeves stated the compression must be at least 100psi. You may get away with 90psi but that's the lowest.
If for some reason that cylinder has lost compression it will not pull fuel through the reeds.

If you had a no spark condition the plug should be wet.

"Thanks guys...here is where I

"Thanks guys...here is where I am now. Last sunday, I could not test since it was raining. So, I ordered parts. I ordered a new stator, Regulator/Rectifier (correct one this time) and a coil since there was a bad orange wire on this coil, I thought it might have caused a problem.
I will check compression first, put the new parts on, then give it another try. Keeping my fingers crossed. Will let you know how it goes.
The only reason I decided to put a new stator on is that is is 20 years old and for a very long time, I had a limitation of going over 4100rpm's, so it is possible that was not a regulator/rectifier problem but a weak stator, so I will go this route for now.
Cheaper for me to throw a few parts on than a 2 1/2 hour drive to my mechanic with these fuel prices."

"Ok, finally some success.
T

"Ok, finally some success.
Today, I installed my new Stator, Regulator/Rectifier and Coil.
Did compression test. All were great...from 125 to 140 cold.
I tested spark with my spark tester and it confirmed the top left had no spark. I put the new coil on...no spark...dang! So, I fiddled with the wired and switched the orange wires and it got spark the plug, so I knew I had a wire problem. It was at the quick disconnect. I cleaned it up and worked it and finally it started to work, so had spark again.
Regapped the plugs and took her to the lake. Wind blowing 20-30 today, so that was fun, but I was determined to test her out.
She now gets up to 5100 rpm's, Tach worked flawlessly, motor is smoother with new fuel mix, idle is great...YEEE HAAAA! It is great to be back to normal!

I don't think my original stator was bad and when I got it off, it actually looked good, so I will keep it for a backup.
I did find out that the 193-4204 regulator/rectifier that I used as the first replacement in error was for a 10 amp use. The 193-5204 has heavier wires on it and it is rated at 35 amp service, so that too might have been a problem, if not immediately, over time perhaps, but now I know all the parts are correct and she it good to go.
Thanks for your help and feedback on this forum! "