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327F enginehow do I know if it is RH or LF rotation

bigscoot11

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I have a 1964 Chris Craft Supe

I have a 1964 Chris Craft Super Sport with a 327F engine #700229. The engine is not running and I need to determine if it is RH or LH rotation. From looking at the prop it appears to be LH but I am sure there are others who know how to determine better than my method. I did search the archive but most answers assume the engine is runnng. Can you help?
 
Does the starter work? If it

Does the starter work? If it does and it will turn the engine you can see which way it turns the engine.
 
I am not sure if this holds tr

I am not sure if this holds true for the 327 but in my 350 RH engine it has timing gears instead of a timing chain.
 
"Usually, the port engine turn

"Usually, the port engine turns in the 'normal' (ie: automotive) direction, with the starboard reverse rotation.

Jeff"
 
"HERE is the answer to your qu

"HERE is the answer to your question

http://www.network54.com/Forum/424840/message/1157641525

Basically, looking at the 327F manual now, if you have a single, it's a right hand rotation with the prop rotating clockwise when viewed from the rear. Beware, with some flywheel forward installations, this can become quite confusing if auto-talk invades the marine-talk culture.

regards, Dogsharks"
 
"Well that's all good, pro

"Well that's all good, providing that over the last 40 years no one has changed anything. The engine, gear and/or prop could have all been changed to...whatever.

One quick visual check, although not foolproof, is to look at the cooling fins on the alternator. The pulley fins will rotate so they pull air out from inside the alernator, determining which direction the alternater rotates will tell you which way the engine rotates."
 
Thanks for the various advice-

Thanks for the various advice--all which is good info and has helped me confirm the actual rotation direction. I will post another question to keep the conversation going.
 
Hello I have bought two 327 engines to have as spare for my chris craft 1967 seatate it has 2 engines in it. so my question is that the two motors have the same block casting same intake casting but not the sane head casting Both sides of the motors has the same casting number . but one of the motors has no bolt holes to attached the raw water pump. so i was looking to replace the head on one side . but when i compared the two casting numbers . the one that hasd the wholke to attache the raw water pump seems to be heads of a differnet motor according to my reseach this is what i found Port side engine The casting number on both heads are 3884520 That casting number gives me the following info: 1960 to 1967 327 ci 60cc chamber and 1.72/1.54 inch valve Block number is 3782870 Small Block V8 1962-1967 327, 2 bolt intake is 3844459 3844459 1964 to 1965 327 ci 300 hp Cast iron with Carter AFB. Riveted oil splash shield. Starboard side engine: Casting number head 3932454 307/350 1968-69 Valves 1.72/1.50 inch 76cc chamber Block number is 37782870 Intake is 3844459 is there something wrong with the picture please help me out
 
sounds to me like the 'starboard' engine has had its heads changed at some point in time.

Assuming the engines were 'matched' at some point (& haven't been altered/rebuilt), the one with the larger combustion chambers will yield a lower compression ration than the other...

as far as 'rotation' goes, the LH engine will rotate CCW when viewing the flywheel while cranking.
 
Thanks for that info. My question know is that will it affect the sincronization or will the motor compensate.
And lokking at pictures from the casting numbers both heats seem to be the same underneath so the the chambers cc the piston chamber size.
 
i mean is the chamber size identified giving you the piston space for compression the chamber size.
i am definatly not a mechanic
 
FYI.... you have posted to an old thread from back in September of 2006.
It's always best to start a new fresh thread for your specific topic.

But since we're here...... I agree with Mark.
If the cylinder blocks have been fitted with the same pistons, yet the cylinder heads are of a different combustion chamber volume and have different sized valves, you will have an issue.


And yes.... engine rotation is always viewed from the flywheel end.


RH and LH rotation explained 2.jpg





I would suggest starting a new thread.


.
 
i mean is the chamber size identified giving you the piston space for compression the chamber size.
i am definatly not a mechanic

Cylinder head combustion volume along with piston dish volume, determines the Static Compression Ratio.

Clarification:

.....Flat Top pistons (minus valve reliefs) do not offer any dish volume.
.....The GM full dished pistons do offer a dish volume.


Baring that the camshafts, carburetion, timing, etc is the same between the two engines, and if each engine was built using the same piston profile, yet the cylinder heads are of a different chamber volume, each engine will perform differently.

I'll still suggest starting a new thread.
 
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Cylinder head combustion volume along with piston dish volume, determines the Static Compression Ratio.

Clarification:

.....Flat Top pistons (minus valve reliefs) do not offer any dish volume.
.....The GM full dished pistons do offer a dish volume.


Baring that the camshafts, carburetion, timing, etc is the same between the two engines, and if each engine was built using the same piston profile, yet the cylinder heads are of a different chamber volume, each engine will perform differently.

I'll still suggest starting a new thread.
i would start a new one but i do not know how.
So if you explain i will but another question anyone know what original cast number that the 327 f series 19678 came with originally
someone said that i couls run both motors on a single rwa water pump is that trus
 
At the upper left hand corner of the Chris Craft Engine Forum main page, you will see “+ Start New Thread”.
Click on it.
You will be required to give the thread a “title“.
Title it appropriately and completely.

Then post your questions in the main text field.
 
I wouldn't worry about the small details of the engines as long as they are both operating properly. You are more concerned with RPM than you are horsepower. That is, you look at where the tachometer needle is, not the position of the throttle lever. It can be assumed that the engines will both be able to operate in the range that you can reasonably expect for this antique boat. The only downside is that one might use a little more fuel than the other but as long as they are in good condition, you should be OK running with slightly mismatched parts. If, after you get the boat in the water and find that fuel consumption on one is way more than it should be, then perhaps you'll want to revisit the entire cylinder head issue.
As for seawater supply, you can get away with using a single strainer, but you should have seawater pump on each engine. You can get pumps that are secured to the crankshaft pulley and don't need a drive belt. This is a superior design in my opinion.
Just be sure that the strainer has enough flow for both engines. The good thing about a single strainer is there is one less hole in the boat, easier maintenance and less plumbing. The bad thing is that if it fouls, you can overheat both engines at the same time.
 
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