Logo

88 evinrude voltage rectifier regulator

papyson

Outstanding Contributor
1994 evinrude model 88.i have

1994 evinrude model 88.i have a charging problem.regulator output about 16v dc when working correctly.the when running boat i can see meter drop..sometimes to only the battery output(12.7)tach goes crazy at this point also..tach failure is normally a high reading..this morning i got a failure at the dock.the reading listed are at 24-2600 rpm in nuetral.stator output is.when working correctly 24.3ac..when failing stator output goes to 54 to 60vac..regular output is 26.3 vac when working..16vac when failing..dc output from regular only dropped to 14 today but this is indication of failure...the regulator is a new one..the old one crapped out...the stator is about a year old..i saw this failure on old parts also..battery is new..at this point i am beginning to suspect heat because everything works correctly for first 15 minutes runtime.the regulator is the little round one mounted on side of engine..any ideas appreciated..ty..carl
 
i forgot to add the failure is

i forgot to add the failure is still there with the tach and console amp meter disconnected..everything disconnected at battery except for the heavy red wire from engine..big plug under console disconnected..ty again..carl
 
"There is no regulator, just a

"There is no regulator, just a rectifier. The voltage will go as high as the battery 'permits'.
Either install a regulator, or change the battery to 'cheap' type."
 
i understand its a rectifier a

i understand its a rectifier and is not regulated...i understand the voltage output will vary with the charging current to the battery and any other current load..tops is about 16-17vdc as read on dc scale on multimeter.i also understand that this is not a pure dc(flat) but is rectified ac that has not been filtered down to a pure dc..therefore you will get a higher reading on ac scale on multimeter as indicated on my first entry. the battery is a standard marine battery from autozone..nothing special about it..thank you for your answer..any other ideas appreciated..ty...Carl
 
Morten...i would be happy to b

Morten...i would be happy to buy a regulator and install it if you think it would solve the problem..please give me a part number that would do the job...would it fit to mount in the same place?ty again...Carl
 
i am going to be using boat 3-

i am going to be using boat 3-5 days next week..i am going to remove rectifier from where it is mounted so as to not add heat to it from the engine...probably tape it to wiring harness ot something..i will let you know if it helps the problem...if it does fail but fails less often i will probably make a run with the cowl off to further eliminate heat...the run to where i start fishing is approx 12 miles and will be in 85 degree weather and warm water...
 
"No need to remove the rectifi

"No need to remove the rectifier, just put on Your nav lights or bring with You a cooling box. Whatever pulls off some of the charge, the generator is only 6 amp.The regulator part number:0583529 (Is the one used on the 90/110) T/Tilt. Pos 59 on the diagram below. It fits into the block just behind the fly wheel on top of the block.Replaces pos 66 which is the one You have.
25884.gif
regulator
 
"carl,are you sure that you ca

"carl,are you sure that you can seperate the rectifier from the block? Does it not need to be grounded to the block?Taken the rectifier in to be tested?"
 
"thank you for the thought...i

"thank you for the thought...i not positive about the grounding...the boat and my wiring diagram are at the camp....will check monday or tuesday...i doubt if the rectifier would fail on a test...its too intermittent...i think the first rectifier eventually failed because of the problem..it read open both ways with the meter when i took it off...after your input i think i will still seperate it from the block and then run a wire from the rectifier base back to the block...that will take care of the grounding if thats a problem..the fix will probable be a different rectifier(regulator)as per morten,s suggestion..."
 
"Carl,
I just went through al


"Carl,
I just went through all of this with a 60 HP twin with the same rectifier set up. Yours is a three wire, mine is a 4 wire. I finally listened to Morton and pulled the 685 AH marine battery I put in and replaced it with a 525 AH Wal MART battery. My volts were up to 17. Now there max'd to 14.7 / 14.9 with the "cheaper" battery at WOT. As far as removing the rectifier from the block this may sound strange but the rectifier bolted to the block uses the block as a heat sink. I learned this. The rectifier will produce more heat than the engine will produce at normal operating temps. Leaving the rectifier hanging and not bolted to the engine will cause it to overheat and fail. The rectifiers can be OHM checked to see if they are O.K. I do not have the wire checks for your three wire as they are different from my 4 wire. If the rectifier does fail depending on which diode lets go it can affect your Tach reading if the diode that fails is wired to the Tach. Good luck with your repair. It took a month and several test runs to work my bugs out. Brian..."
 
thanks for input....the batter

thanks for input....the battery is starting to make sence to me...both this battery and the prior battery was the best i could buy from autozone..i forget rating but i know its high..i have several batteries at camp as my camp is a boat...both the head and auto bilge pump have batteries on them..will swap it out...if it is the battery then i have aggravated the problem by going the other way and disconnecting stuff...ty very much...i will post results this week as i have computer on houseboat...if the battery dont fix i going to make sure a heavier regulator will fit on block and wiring will reach term block and replace it..i will prob do that anyway...i am suspecting that that rectifier is underrated for that boat...
 
i fail to mention that i have

i fail to mention that i have saw voltage variance and tach failures on this boat for years..i just didnt get real serious about the problem until i lost a rectifier...
 
swapped out ignition with trol

swapped out ignition with trolling motor battery..aprox 580 ampere hour battery...appears to be greatly improved..top voltage read is approx 14.1 vdc in about 15 hours run time..saw tach varying one time on first run with trolling motor battery..will monitor..
 
i have a theory question...whe

i have a theory question...when we look at dc voltage measured at battery i have always assumed we are looking at charger out put..i have assumed that as the voltage went up it was because the current draw by a charging battery was going down..my question is this:are we really looking at battery output going up also?if so then that would explain what is happening?i can see where if the battery output is equal to or greater than the semi filtered ac peak coming off rectifier some crazy stuff could happen..i deeply appreciate all the help i was given both by staff and by members..this is an excellent site..carl
 
"Let me try to make a VERY sim

"Let me try to make a VERY simple explanation of the different battery types. The old type (cheap)batteries lets the voltage encrease to a certain level, then You get a mini lightening that discharges the voltage to ground. It works as long as the amps pushed into the battery is not greater than that this internal discharge manage to balance it. This way the voltage is kept somewhat down. The more expencive 'sealed' batteries have a higher tolerance level and even a lower internal discharge rate that automaticly makes them keep the charge better (no intenal leakage). The disadvantage is that theese batteries in some cases (no regulator system) may build up the current to 17+volts which may cause other electrics/electronics to fail. The sealed batteries needs normally a regulator that charges up to 15Volts to get the battery fully charged. Even the 'regulators' used in the Evinrude/Johnson are not always good enough to use together with the sealed type batteries as they does not cut the voltage, just the amperage going to the battery. If the battry itself allow voltage to 17Volts, that is what You will get! The regulators used are so called 'clippers' that cuts off a number of pulses to limit the amps flowing, not the pulse hight to reduce the voltage."
 
thanks again.....if i have dam

thanks again.....if i have damaged the rectifier i will replace with a regulator....will monitor closely....damage is possible as the trolling motor battery is new and i havent saw it above 14.1 vdc or so.....interesting problem...i would think the engine manufacturers would have posted something on the web about it....
 
"One other thing I have found.

"One other thing I have found. If the rectifier ever starts acting up if you have a Tach. it will either start bouncing around or read lower RPM than the motor is doing. I swapped my 685 amp marine battery out for a 525 amp Wal Mart battery. At times the voltage still goes up over 15 but only once in awhile, When this happens I turn on the running lights and bilge pump to keep the volts at or under 14. The service manual I have states that the recommended battery size is 360 cca and 115 minutes reserve capacity. or (70 ampere hour reference)
Still looking for one in this range. If I put one in I think it will finally stop the problem. As the old saying goes : If all else fails, read the instructions :"
 
i think if you find a battery

i think if you find a battery that size it would be so cheaply built that i wouldnt trust it...depends on where you fish or run boat i guess...i an retired and go places during the week that i never see a boat...spending the night with alligators dont appeal to me...i think i am going to run deepcycle batteries on both trolling motor and ignition...thanks for all your help...
 
Back
Top