"Daniel.... As I mentioned in
"Daniel.... As I mentioned in my e-mail back to you, that engine is a 1972 65hp Johnson that has a "Hydro Electric" shift setup. If it shifted okay previously and nobody has had it apart, I keep thinking that possibly it is either low on lube or has the wrong lube init. HOwever you have stated that it does have the correct lube, which would be OMC's "Premium Bled", also know as "Type C" lube. (None Other)
The washer between the prop and nut is OMC #315810, listing for about $3.00. If you can't locate one, I have it... add a buck for shipping ($4.00). There's also a thrust washer between the prop and the lower unit. Hope you didn't lose that one too. OMC part #318841, listing for around $30.00. If you need that one, you can have it for $19.00 and a couple $ shipping. Just a thought.
One other thing.... if you or someone else has drained and refilled the unit, it must (absolutely) be filled from the bottom until it comes out of the top oil level hole. If anyone attempts to fill that unit from the top hole, they will create a air pocket and oil will flow out as if the unit is full.... but it will be no where near full... and that will prevent the unit from shifting properly obviously.
The shifting setup of that 1972 65 lower unit is quite complex consisting of voltage being applied to solenoids in the lower unit which in turn change oil passages via a oil pump that supplies various pressure on a spring loaded shifter dog. The wires leading to the lower unit (at the powerhead) are "Green" and "Blue". The engine must be running or cranking over in order to shift out of forward gear. You CAN NOT use HI VIS lube in that lower unit. You MUST USE what OMC calls "Preminum Blend" lube commonly called
"Type C". (A thinner lube)
In neutral, you need 12v to the "Green" wire.
In reverse, you need 12v to both wires, the "Green" one and the "Blue" one.
In forward, there should be no voltage to either wire. (The spring loaded shifter dog forces the unit into forward gear)
To check the lower unit for proper shifting to make sure you have no trouble there, remove the spark plugs to avoid problems and to allow a higher cranking speed.
This next step eliminates the actual shift switch in case problems may exist there.... Disconnect the blue & green wires at the knife connectors (the rubber insulated boots) leading to the lower unit at the powerhead, then using jumpers, take voltage direct from the starter solenoid to apply voltage to the "Green" wire for neutral, then both wires 'Green" & "Blue" for reverse (Remember the engine must be cranking over in order to shift). With no voltage applied, the unit should be in forward. No need for a ground jumper... the lower unit's already grounded. You may crank the engine with the key switch or by energizing the starter solenoid with a jumper wire.
Joe
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