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Merc 30 Trim Pump wonbt work

lakeguy

New member
When I try the trim up/down sw

When I try the trim up/down switch nothing happens--no noise-nothing. last fall it worked fine. I installed the battery today and the engine started fine--but no trim/tilt. I checked the inline fuse and it's ok. The boat is a 2002 Maxum with 124 hours on it. I think it's an electrical issue.
Thanks
Lakeguy
 
did you forget to hook up the

did you forget to hook up the power wires for the trim system? The are sometimes separate from the battery wires.
 
Initially I had the pump lead

Initially I had the pump lead on the + terminal. It's a red wire but it goes to the - terminal according to the wiring diagram. I made this same mistake a few years ago and after I switched the lead it worked fine. Not this time.
 
"RED + to a - ? that spell

"RED + to a - ? that spells "its gonna run backwards" or burn up, especially if the pump ground goes to engine ground. Anyone that uses a RED wire for a Negative lead is causing problems.

( JBL Speaker company made this mistake and caused problems for a lot of US Audiophyles and Engineers)

I would triple check that."
 
"Will the trailer switch raise

"Will the trailer switch raise the OD?

<center><table border=1><tr><td>http://www.marineengine.com/discus/icons/attachment_icon.gif""" align=left alt=""application/vnd.openxmlformats-officedocument.wordprocessingml.document"">how the trim works
[url=""][b]How the trim.docx[/b][/url] (12.6 k)</td></tr></table></center>"
 
I jumped the solenoids and the

I jumped the solenoids and the lower unit went up/down. If I jump from the neg batt terminal to the green or blue wires leading from the throttle control unit I hear the solenoids click but no movement of the lower unit. Can the solenoids be bad and still click? I thought the click meant it was makng a connectiom.
 
"that`s WRONG, there should be

"that`s WRONG, there should be a RED wire coming from the 2 solenoids, that goes to POS. then there is also a BLACK lead that goes to the NEG terminal.Using a jumper from the + side of the battery touch the blue lead on the motor(up) then the green wire(down). this checks the motor. then touch the jumper to the small pin on the solenoid`s ,this should also operate the trim system.if it works to here, trouble is in the comntrol handel or wiring."
 
"Does the trailer switch raise

"Does the trailer switch raise the OD?

How the trim/tilt works

Before you tear anything apart or replace wiring and switches, test it out; first by visual inspection by pulling back and forth on the wires while operating the switches and then test with a meter. At the commander switches, the red wire will always have 12 volts. The green wire gets 12 volts when the trim toggle is held down. The blue wire gets 12 volts only when the toggle is held up or the trailer switch is pushed in. The purple wire is part of the limit switch circuit.

If the switch voltages are as they are supposed to be then go to the trim/tilt pump assy. and make sure the purple wire connector (single wire) and the blue wire connector with two blue wires on one side of the connection are not corroded or loose. These are the trim position and limit switch wires. Pull them apart and inspect; they should be clean and tight; reconnect them. If necessary, trace the wires to the front of the engine near the slave solenoid. One wire is grounded near there and the other is connected to a terminal. If you don't get a voltage reading at the terminal junction, apply 12 VDC to see if the trim gauge moves. If it does, check for voltage back at the trim pump connections. If no voltage there, apply 12 VDC there to check gauge movement.

Next check the three wire connector (RED, BLUE & GREEN) at the pump assy. This plug can vibrate loose and cause your problem. Pull it off and see if the pins are clean and not corroded; reconnect it.

The RED wire in the plug sends 12 volts from the pump assy. to the toggle up/down and trailer up switches. The BLUE & GREEN wires bring 12 volts from the toggle trim/tilt and trailer switches to the two solenoids on the pump assy.

The GREEN wire goes to the DOWN solenoid while the BLUE wire goes to the UP solenoid.

Did you check the switches with an ohmmeter? The trim/tilt switch is a 2-way switch and will show continuity only when it is toggled in each direction between two of the wires.

Up toggle connects the RED wire to the BLUE wire. Down toggle connects the RED wire to the GREEN wire. The TRAILER UP switch also connects the RED wire to the BLUE wire.

The OD trim limit switch will only send voltage to the trim/tilt switch in the upward toggle position if the OD limit switch is below the adjusted trim limit that keeps the OD being out of the water.

To test the limit switch circuit, lower the OD to the down position and slowly raise it with the trim toggle up until it stops. Then measure the distance between the trim cylinder attaching bolts. If the distance is approx. 22 +/- 1/4 inches, then the trim limit switch is adjusted properly and the commander trim toggle switch is working in the up/down mode.

Go to the trim/tilt pump assy. and make sure the purple wire connector (single wire) and the blue wire connector two blue wires on one side of the connection are not corroded or loose. Pull them apart; they should be clean and tight; reconnect them.
Next check the three (RED, BLUE & GREEN) wire connector at the pump assy. The RED wire in the plug sends 12 volts from the pump assy. to the toggle up/down and trailer up switches. This plug can vibrate loose and cause your problem. Pull it off and see if the pins are clean and not corroded; reconnect it.

The BLUE & GREEN wires bring 12 volts from the switches to the two solenoids on the pump assy. The GREEN wire goes to the DOWN solenoid while the BLUE wire goes to the UP solenoid.

Disconnect the trim/tilt assy. wires from the battery and then check each of the nuts and studs on the solenoids for clean and tight fittings. Each solenoid has three wires and the buss bar connected to it. The bases of them have a black ground wire and a small blue wire to one and a small green wire to the other.

On top of each solenoid, the large BLUE wire from the pump motor attaches to a large copper stud with the solenoid that has the small blue wire at the base while the large GREEN wire from the pump motor attaches to a large copper stud with the solenoid that has the small green wire at the base.

The other copper solenoid studs are connected together with a copper buss bar. One of the two studs will also have a funny looking 110 amp fuse attached to the bar. The large RED wire from the battery connects to the 110 amp fuse. This large red wire is the power for this buss bar. A small RED wire attached to the bar stud sends 12 volts to the switches which in turn sends the 12 volts to the solenoids which turns on the pump motor.

Important: if the studs on the either solenoid are dark and not like a clean penny, especially the BLUE wired solenoid, this solenoid is failing due to age and/or a loose bottom copper stud nut. The dark color comes from heat generated inside of the solenoid by the contactor because it is arcing like welding similar to points wearing out. Change the solenoid.

Cleaning Trim Limit Switch & Trim Position Sender

For the trim/tilt problem you are experiencing, if the wires from the limit switch (port side) and trim position sender (starboard side) are in good condition, they (Switch or sender) can be disassembled to clean out the old hardened grease. SCRIBE the sides of each one and the OD for a reference mark before removal. Clean out the old grease and pump fresh Mercruiser 2-4-C grease thru the zerk fittings before reinstallation. Clean the small brass contact points with solvent and a pencil eraser until shiny; repack w/ 2-4-C grease and reinstall by aligning reference marks."
 
"Great information, Guy. I hav

"Great information, Guy. I have a '93 Cobalt 222 with Bravo 1 drive and same problem as Roger. Ran fine last fall, tilt won't work now. It has dual batteries and I changed one. Bench tested pump motor ans solinoids. All checked out.
Can someone tell me where the 20 Amp fuse is on this boat?"
 
"Brian, Guy and Bt Doctur, tha

"Brian, Guy and Bt Doctur, thanks for all your help. Guy that was a great tutorial and it's now in my saved file. This AM I checked all the connections and tried the switch. At first it was same old/same old then as I held the button down longer it started working and life is good. Maybe I have a lazy solenoid if there is such a thing."
 
"lazy solenoid, dirty motor, b

"lazy solenoid, dirty motor, bad switch, such talk about our friends.

Bob some trim units have fuses on both the up and down circuit some just the up. it can look like a "button"
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90 amp fuse"">

Your sure the leads are connected to the battery?"
 
The 20 amp fuse is inside the

The 20 amp fuse is inside the black cocoon attached to the red wire on the trim unit. If the fuse is old it may fall apart when you open it to check it.

The small black plug the fuse is attached to has a bad habit of vibrating loose. Make sure it is tight and wrap a zip tie around it to clamp it in place.

"I have a lazy solenoid..."

As they age the internal contactor burns and its resistance increases. It then takes more current to get it to operate. Since they are cheap I changed both of mine after 20 years along w/the slave solenoid.
 
"Thanks for the responses. I

"Thanks for the responses. I hate to be so dumb but I don't remember seeing a black cocoon or a black button. There is a rectangular box beside the pump and motor with what looked like a reset button on top but I didn't see wires going from it to the motor or solenoids and it didn't seem to "reset" when I pushed it. Is this the 110 amp breaker?
Guy, when you say "trim unit" do you mean the motor/pump/reservoir? I will check all these items. I hope you guys will have some patience with me."
 
My motor lies horizontal but p

My motor lies horizontal but probably the same set up.
I've been waylaid by a sever infection and can't work on it for a while.
Thanks for the help
 
"motor lies horizontal ? That

"motor lies horizontal ? That wont work, it needs to be vertical for the oil to be on the resevoir properly, can you take a picture and upload it ?

Sorry to hear about your infection, hope you get better soon."
 
"RE:"as I held the button

"RE:"as I held the button down longer it started working..."

Unless the switches are very expensive milspec switches, the contacts will eventually get corroded. Repeated operation of the switch will sometimes break thru the corrosion, however, the switch is a definite "short timer" and will likely fail. The same holds for the contacts in the relay, although it more likely to be the switch that is gettign ready to be retired."
 
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