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AQ131D volvo penta still wonbt start

"lined up the belt and gears,

"lined up the belt and gears, then checked the plug wires for proper connection, my understanding is that on the cap there is a number 1. starting clockwise from the 1 should be the #1 wire correct? so I set the wires from there 1342 firing order, started the boat and got backfire through the carb with no start, did this several times, tried turning the dist. did not start at all, just kept backfiring through the carb. should I at this point remove the distributor and realign? My question is that if the belt and gears are correct and the wires are correct what will taking the dist. out of the block do? Just need to understand what i am doing before I do it. thanks, I think I am almost there."
 
"Take off the valve cover, and

"Take off the valve cover, and turn the engine until the valves at cyl 1 changes, Your timing mark at the pulley should then be at TDC. Turn the engine ONE complete turn until the timing mark aligns again. Take off the distributor cap.
Now the rotor should point almost straight at the plug wire for cyl no 1! Does it?"
 
"Not necessarily. Remove #1 sp

"Not necessarily. Remove #1 spark plug (the closest to the coolant expansion tank) then put your thumb in the hole and turn the engine with a socket and a ratchet (clockwise) until you almost feel no pressure coming through the spark plug hole, then remove the distributor cap and see where the rotor is pointing: the lead that will align with the rotor once you install the cap is the one for #1 spark plug. Then, clockwise in the distributor cap, the next one is #3, the next is #4, and the last is #2.

If the engine is attempting to start, you are getting close, but the timing is probably too advanced or too retarded. You will have to rotate slightly backs or forth the distributor until the engine start, then use a timing light to set the idle spark advance.

Hang on, you are getting close to win."
 
"Morten, for clarification: my

"Morten, for clarification: my response was posted before I saw your post and it answers Ralph's post, not yours."
 
So my wires could still be on

So my wires could still be on the wrong spot on the cap? I set it up from the right of the cap with the imprint of #1 clockwise then went 342 from there.
 
"El:
Did not mean to interfer

"El:
Did not mean to interferer, thought You were sleeping or gone fishing!
Ralph:
The best is to use the engine physics (piston and valves) for reference and not what might be stamped on other parts. Would not be surprised if You find the rotor pointing at mark #4 on the cap = 180Degree out,"
 
"I'll check, just not sure

"I'll check, just not sure I quite understand what I am doing. are my wires correct? That would be my concern first I would think. How would I know if they are."
 
"The contact point on the cap

"The contact point on the cap where the rotor is pointing as per above will be where No1 cable should be, no matter what is written/stamped at the cap."
 
"Hi Morten. You did not interf

"Hi Morten. You did not interfere (you never do!!!). I just wanted to clarify that my post 4230 was not a reply to your 3557, but rather to Ralph's question in his post 16 about the position of #1 wire lining-up with the #1 mark in the cap.

No fishing yet, but I'm getting closer....
biggrin.gif
"
 
"I don't quite catch Your

"I don't quite catch Your question, but:
-Set up the engine as described above.
-Mark on outside of the distributor where the rotor points with a marker pen.
-Put the dist cap back on.
- The mark on the distributor should now be where plug cable goes to cyl 1. If plug cable where the mark is does not go to cyl 1 - switch around and get it right.
Further:
If You have a test light, or even an ohm-meter will do.:
Connect it to the breaker points. Set the timing not at TDC but about 4-6 Before TDC. Then carefully turn the dist until the points just open.Tighten the dist adjustment screw. That should be good enough to start, then do final adjustment with timing light when engine runs."
 
"On a serious note, supposing

"On a serious note, supposing a wooden dowel or brass drift of the appropriate diameter was used (with a hammer) to rap on the aft end of the primary drive shaft? Wouldn't it maybe be helpful in loosening the rust on the spline?"
 
"Jay:
Not quite the appropria

"Jay:
Not quite the appropriate way to get the timing right!
But to be serious, I think You posted in the wrong post!
happy.gif
"
 
"Well got it to start first ti

"Well got it to start first time in a long time, now just need help fine tuning, have my laptop out with me on the boat. didn't run it just let it start, don't have everything hooked up, so what is next? I owe you guys a beer."
 
"Good!

Now, your next step

"Good!

Now, your next step is setting the idle spark advance at 6ºBTDC if you are using regular gasoline, or at 10ºBTDC if you are using mid-grade. You need a timing light for this job.

Make sure the idle speed is 900 RPM when you set the spark advance."
 
"El, I am not a seasoned mecha

"El, I am not a seasoned mechanic, can you expalain the procedure for spark advance, here is what I got. The boat started fine, runs a little rough. When I turn the dist. to clockwise it tries to stall. Turning it the other way well, i cant its at its limit on the bracket. Do i need to realign the #1 and pull it out again? The other thing is the timing light am I lining up the degree on the timing plate to the crank pully large dot? if so, i understand that. hoping not to have to pull it all apart again if possible. Anyway, it does start rpm is at about 900-1000 but its rough until I give it some gas then it smooths out nice. Thanks again, you guys have gotten me far with lots of patients."
 
"also, the manual says that th

"also, the manual says that the #4 cylinder is closest to the flywheel, if that is correct, then not sure what I did, because going off the compression pushing my thumb off the cylinder, and checking the rotor position this is what I have on the cap and down the plugs, 1 4 2 3 on the cap and then 1, 3, 4, 2 down the plugs number 1 wire to number 1 plug, etc. does this make sense or are my wires still jacked up?"
 
"#4 cylinder is the closest to

"#4 cylinder is the closest to the flywheel, therefore #1 is the closest to the coolant expansion tank. Or, if you prefer, the most distant from the flywheel.

Forget about any numbers in the cap, then look at the picture (Volvo 4 cylinder) and see where the wires go.

282274.gif


After you have connected the wires in the right places, we will discuss the ignition timing."
 
"Also, if you find it too diff

"Also, if you find it too difficult, you may want to consider taking your boat to a mechanic just to set the ignition timing. They cannot charge you much for that and you could possibly watch how he does it and learn for the future."
 
"Good news, its runnning fine,

"Good news, its runnning fine, got the wires right. the timing light indicates that the 5-6 degree mark on the crank lines up with the same on the timing cover. I think I got it. Can't get the dist. to turn anymore to the counter clockwise position due to the hold down bracket maxing out. however, all timing marks are aligned and the engine fired and the rotor points correct. Should I have any worries at this point?"
 
"It should be fine. The only t

"It should be fine. The only thing is if in the future you need to advance the timing further, you will have to move the distributor one tooth forward. For that, pull the distributor, turn the rotor slightly clockwise, then slide it into the engine again, making sure the rotor now points a few degrees further clockwise than it did when you removed it.

Congratulations, you won!!"
 
"Well almost won, sea water pu

"Well almost won, sea water pump isn't pulling water from the tub through the engine. I can hear it gurgling through the strainer, but doesn't seam to prime?"
 
"El, got the boat on the wate

"El, got the boat on the water, ran ok until throttling up, then it backfired. If I push the throttle to full, it runs great, but I am afraid to break something. Does it need to be adjusted at the distributor or do I need to be looking at something else first? According to the Timing Light, it is set just in front of the 5 degree mark heading to 10. Manual states 6, but I don't have a 6, I think its close."
 
"Check that the accelerator pu

"Check that the accelerator pump in the carb is not stuck and it is squirting fuel into the carb whenever you accelerate. If the pump is OK, check that the mechanical advance weights inside the distributor are not seized and the springs are not broken."
 
Where is the accelerator pump

Where is the accelerator pump in the carb? Or can you explain the checking procedure for this as well as the weithts and springs. I took it out yesterday and still backfires and bogs down on when throttling up. Boat runs fine if I just shoot to full throttle.
 
"The accelerator pump is part

"The accelerator pump is part 15 in this link

http://www.volvopentastore.com/CARBURETOR_856126/dm/cart_id.223083472--session_i d.618130672--store_id.366--view_id.324065

Whenever you accelerate, you should see fuel being squirted inside the carb (you have to remove the flame arrestor first). If you don't see any fuel, then the accelerator pump is either stuck or does not work due to another reason.

The advance weights are inside the distributor, below the plate where the points are installed. They have springs attached to them, you may want to see that the springs are not broken/rusted, and that the weights are not seized.

Ralph, I think you should get hold of a copy of the Seloc manual and take some time to read about this and other topics. This way, when you are working on your engine, you will have most of the answers at hand (pictures included) and a better understanding of the equipment you are dealing with. Of course, you are also welcome to ask here whenever something is not clear to you.

Good luck."
 
"El, sorry. I did a visual, a

"El, sorry. I did a visual, and turned the rotor, the rotor was solid in one direction and springs back in the other. Didn't take it apart though. Put the timing light on and it was idiling where it should around 850-900, throttle up (quickly with no load) gave me the same effect as if under load, bogged and backfired, then took off. Checked the advance timing with the light and it was where the manual said it should be. (I also have the seloc manual). Dennis"
 
"Ralph, it takes only a few mi

"Ralph, it takes only a few minutes to remove the points and have a look to the weights, then another few minutes to reinstall and readjust the points. I suggest you do this just to clear the possibility of a broken spring advancing the timing too fast."
 
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