Logo
FULL SITE MENU

Volvo 280 tilt

M

mrmahi

Member
"Aloha all,
I have been tho

"Aloha all,
I have been though every component of my electric tilt system and have finally conceded to asking for help. The problem is the tilt will go up fine, but will not go down. I have been through the relays, push pin switch motor etc. The problem Im having is I believe not enough voltage. I have a voltage drop at the yellow/green wire going to the motor...even at the relay terminal. My question is this: I was under the impression the blue wire is up and the brown wire is down. I am getting full 12v to the blue wire and nothing to the brown with the respective switch position. I am getting weak voltage athe the yellow/green wire in the down position. Oddly yhe motor will run both ways when free (not on tilt mech).
BTW, It was working fine for a while.
Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.
Mike"
 
"The two long screws that hold

"The two long screws that hold the black plastic cover in place cannot be too tight on many of these. If too tight, it will affect the micro switch operation.
Loosen these some and give that a try. They do not require being very tight! The box should be able to pivot some.

NOTE: The power for the three conductor helm switch harness is powered from the helm.... not powered forward from the lift out unit.
Just an FYI on that. So check the harness connection at/near the inside of the transom somewhere. There is very likely a connection in this harness that may be corroded.

."
 
"El Pescador/Ricardo,
Thank

"El Pescador/Ricardo,
Thank you so much for the input! With this information I will be able to figure out what is going on. Will keep you posted on the progress!
Best Regards,
Mike"
 
"I have the same problem. When

"I have the same problem. When I press the down switch I can hear the motor moving but the shaft is not going down. I have both styles 3 wire and 2 wire which was off my old boat. I'm afraid that the one that is not working (3 wire) the gears inside are strip. The (2 wire) the outside casing is crack. The question is, can the gears inside be swapable? If not where can I get one of these?"
 
"Tom, the worm gears rarely be

"Tom, the worm gears rarely become stripped.
What does occur is that the Clutch Unit breaks off right at the Allen Threads (The vice rod/Clutch uses a Double Allen style set of threads)
This part of the clutch is also a casting!

I have these units ready to go..... w/ or w/out motors! W/ or W/out relay units.
I'm one of the few that I know of who over-hauls and sells them these days.
I'll warn you.... they are spendy!

."
 
"Just an update...last night a

"Just an update...last night after work I went step by step through El Pescadors' write up. I have been through this myself numerous times, but the write up illuminated some things I was unsure of. I have deduced the relays may be bad eventhough I bench tested them...(all 5!)as I am getting a voltage drop on the 86 terminal of the relay (brown wire) from the yellow green wire when I enrgise the yellow green wire from the helm switch. I should not be getting voltage to that terminal??
The only other thing that is not completely stock is the way I have the power from the key switch on a double connector on the # 2 terminal of the up/down switch, connecting the power to the yellow green wire trough the warning lamp. I belive the old wire was double connected on the "on" key terminal...should'nt make a difference. All wires are ohmed out as well. At this point I am just going to try my own swicth on the transom as well.
I have some pics of the internals of the mechanism if you need, Tom...take a look at this link: http://mauigeosciences.com/Engines.htm You have to scroll down the the Outdrive section.
Thanks again!
Best regards,
Mike"
 
"Mike, the Yellow w/green stri

"Mike, the Yellow w/green stripe wire takes the Amber light to ground, indicating that the lift unit "Vice Rod" is fully retracted (drive all the way IN).
That is all it does and it does this via the micro switch/relay system.

Maybe re-read my first post in this thread re; the harness connection and possible corrosion."
 
"Cool! Thanks mike, do you thi

"Cool! Thanks mike, do you think I can rebuild this tilt motor myself, Aaaaaaauuuughhhh! How hard is it? With my luck, once I start taking it apart, the dog will be biting my leg, springs will start poppin, sweat will be pouring from my head, and then I'll be looking at a bunch of gears in front of me saying to myself Oh! ooo! how does this all go back? Yikes! Please help me Ricardo send me an email [email protected]"
 
"Ricardo,
Thank you again.

"Ricardo,
Thank you again. I did check all the harness connections and am getting a full 13.96v (onboard charger is on) through to the harness connection and then to terminal 86 on the relay as well as the nc terminal on the micro switch. You bring up a good point though, what i did not check is the ground connection from the blue 13 wire ( I have grounded it to a brand new buss bar) I will make sure there is no resistance in this wire. What has me baffled is the low voltage reading on the 85 terminal on the relay. It is a coil and should read the same 13.96v, correct?
Much appreciation for your help/responses.
Best regards,
Mike"
 
"Tom,
It is very easy. Not

"Tom,
It is very easy. Nothing to it, really. The clutch takes a while to get adjusted correctly. As you screw in the top aluminum alloy housing, pressure is applied to the clutch cones via a lare spring which gives the clutch resistance to slipping. Other than that seemed pretty easy to me. I am no expert on these things though. BTW, my homepage for my resto is http://mauigeosciences.com/ and it is a work in progress...many typos and missing links. No time to work on it lately.
Aloha,
Mike"
 
"Okay,
Still scratching my

"Okay,
Still scratching my head here....thanks again for your detailed writeup, El Pescador!
Here is what has happened since the last posting: I switched out trim motors from the 4 wire job back to a two wire. The 4 wire motor would go down but not up....took the motor apart and the coils were burned. I dont know if it is possible to burn one circuit out or not. I thought the coils were one piece. At any rate, I changed back to a two wire harness for the two wire motor.
THe problem I am still having is when I turn the key switch on I am getting weak voltage through the 1 and 3 terminals on the helm up down switch, and subsequently voltage on the blue and brown wiress at the relay terminals 85 and 86, respectively. Is this correct? I have tried three different three way switches and they all behave the same.
According to the detailed writeup (much mahalos again!), "If the up-down switch is not operated, no power reaches either of the relays’ coils. The power going to the warning light will make it lit if the outdrive is not completely down, as the micro-switch will close the circuit between the warning light (yellow – yellow/green wires) and engine block ground (via the black wire). If the outdrive is down, the light will be off, as the micro-switch will be open and the continuity between the light and ground will therefore be interrupted."
Any thoughts? Mahi are running and I have got the outdrive sorted out...just need to get this trim problem figured out. I am about ready to hook up a couple of wires directly through the micro-switch and run this from the transom...it is not rocket science but has got me baffled.
Any help would greatly be appreciated in light of my sanity

Best regards,
Mahi"
 
"Mike, the voltage between 85

"Mike, the voltage between 85 (brown) and ground should be 12 (battery) volts.

The voltage between 86 (yellow) and ground should be virtually zero.

The blue wire should not be "grounded" (it should not touch ground).

What you have is not a "trim", but rather a "tilt" mechanism that cannot be used to trim the outdrive with the boat under power."
 
"Ok, figured it out...turns o

"Ok, figured it out...turns out the motor must have burned one of the relays out when it burned out, so I replaced the motor. I also found hooking the relay box wires straight into the starter and grounding on the block (per manual) eliminated any question on power to the box.
In summary, It was these items in succession: microswitch shorted, relay burnt, motor burnt, bad connector in relay box, relay burnt. I dont know if this was the exact order, but what a nighmare....shes working well now. Thanks for all of the help!"
 
Back
Top