55hp Johnson 1969

"Hello, would appreciate feedb

"Hello, would appreciate feedback. Engine information. Johnson 55 hp outboard, serial # J3006016, model # ESL69A. After several weeks of maintenance this engine cranks right over and purrs like a kitten. Runs beautifully at any speed. Cany you believe it! Here in lies the problem. After about 90 minutes of running, bringing throttle down anywhere below 1/2 throttle she starts to sputter or hic-up, down to a slow crawl and she stalls. She will crank but not turn over or fire again. After an hour she will crank over and run again but not well and soon start to hic-up. If I wait a day, she will start right away and run and purr wonderfully for the same 90 minutes and the process starts over again. The 55 sits aboard a 1969 Larson All American 146 that I have nicely refurbished and included a pic. Thank You for any thoughts."

"By hic-up, I assume you mean

"By hic-up, I assume you mean that the engine is spitting back (sounds like a small backfire). If, so, that indicates the engine is running lean on fuel.

Does the fuel primer bulb have a tendency to go flat? If so, a fuel restriction exists, usually at a fuel anti siphon valve if you're using a built in tank.

You could also have a failing fuel pump. This can be tested by simply pumping the fuel primer bulb (acting as a manual fuel pump) while the problem is taking place.

(Fuel Anti Siphon Valve)
(J. Reeves)

Many of the later OMC V/6 engines incorporate a fuel restriction warning via a vacuum device attached to the powerhead. If the engine overheats, or if you have a fuel restriction, the warning is the same.... a steady constant beep.

NOTE... Only the V/6 & V/8 engines have the above "Fuel Restriction Warning". The warning horn will not sound on the other models.

The fact that a engine is not overheating, but the warning horn sounds off with a constant steady beep, and that the rpms drop drastically would indicate that the engine is starving for fuel due to a fuel restriction. Check the built in fuel tank where the rubber fuel line attaches to the tank fitting. That fitting is in all probability a "Anti Siphon" valve which is notorious for sticking in a semi closed position. It will be aluminum, about 2" long, and the insides of it will consist of a spring, a ball, and a ball seat. If this valve exists, remove it, knock out those inner components which will convert it to a straight through fitting, then re-install it. Hopefully that cures the problem.

The above procedure will cure a restriction problem with the anti siphon valve as stated. BUT, it may also allow fuel to drain backwards to the fuel tank when the engine is not running (siphoning backwards) due to the fact that the carburetors/fuel pump etc are higher than the fuel tank. This condition is not an absolute as the valves in the fuel primer bulb usually prevent this backwards siphoning problem. However.... if this does take place, the cure would be to install a new anti siphon valve.

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay store at:

http://stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-Johnson-Outboard-Parts-etc?refid=store"

"Joe, thank you for your respo

"Joe, thank you for your response. It hic ups as if it is missing or as you said not getting fuel. It is a 3 cylinder. The primer bulb does not go flat. After the engine dies the bulb is not full as when you pump it and create pressure so the buld does not have that pressure, but it does not go flat or collapse. Also, when removing the air intake cover and watching the carb's, manually increasing the throttle, the carbs spit back a small amount of fuel. I haven't gotten as far as the reeds but can reeds be cleaned or adjusted? The engine is 40 yrs old and I asume the reeds are original. Carbs have been rebuilt. Would heat affect the fuel pump? After she stalls and pumping the bulb, she still does not start. It appears that after a cool down period, she will start,usually 20 to 30 minutes later. Thank You!"

"Joe, we are trouble shooting

"Joe, we are trouble shooting the fuel and fuel pump problem again this afternooon. Though I am curious as to why, if it is the fuel pump, that when priming the bulb, she does not start. Thanks!"

"When this condition takes pla

"When this condition takes place, be prepared to remove the spark plugs, observe their condition/appearance, take a compression reading, and check the spark using a spark tester. On that model (1969), the spark should jump a 1/4" gap with a strong blue lightling like flame.... a real SNAP!

That model incorporates a distributor cap and bakelite rotor under the flywheel if I'm not mistaken. It's possible for the rotor to have a intermitent short BUT it's more likely that the points are set incorrectly. Both of these areas will result in weird happenings.

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay store at:

http://stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-Johnson-Outboard-Parts-etc?refid=store
********************
(Point Setting Of Battery Capacitance Discharge)
( Ignition Models - 1968 thru 1972)
(Some have points - Some do not)
(Joe Reeves)

The points must be set to .010 but no wider than .010..... BUT in some instances due to a possible slight inaccurately machined crankshaft lobe or a slight offset of one set of points, a setting slightly less than .010 would be required as follows.

Whether the crankshaft has two or three lobes, when setting the points, check the setting of the points on each individual lobe by rotating the crankshaft by hand.

You may find that setting one set of points to .010 on one lobe, then turning the crankshaft to the next lobe, the gap measures .011 or .012 (too wide). This is where you would need to close that gap down to the required .010. A gap too wide can result in a ignition miss when throttle is applied.

Bottom line, pertaining to the point setting at the various lobe locations____ .010, .010, .009, is okay____ .010, .010, .011 is not!

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay store at:

http://stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-Johnson-Outboard-Parts-etc?refid=store"

Thanks Joe. The points are set

Thanks Joe. The points are set at .010 but may not have been checked in the manner you mentioned on each individual lobe. It's all in the fine details. There is compression and spark. A compression reading was not done. Will verify the spark. One thought was that the points were welding themselves together because of a electrical heat issue and thus not opening until a cool down period.
Thank You!

"The points on that model are

"The points on that model are simply a switch with no voltage to speak of being applied to them. Bottom line..... they wouldn't arc together UNLESS someone goofed and actually threw 12 volts to them. Also, once points arc together, they're there to stay."